Honda/Acura FAQ - Please Review This Before Making A Post!
Guest
Posts: n/a
Honda/Acura FAQ - Please Review This Before Making A Post!
Welcome to the Tampa Racing Honda/acura tech Forum.
This thread is to let you know what we tolerate here, and what we don't
We tolerate everything except:
Rice Pictures
Shop bashing of any sort
Sarcastic posts
Bickerilng/flaming
Post whoring
Honda bashing
Basically, this is a technical forum. We want technical posts, and if you don't have anything positive to contribute towards a post, please don't post it. if you do anyways, we'll just delete your post. Moderators can't read every post, so if you see something out of line, please PM any of us.
Many thanks
--------------------------------------------------------------
These are some helpful links to help anyone with a honda/acura tech questions
some of the threads are very old so do not reply to older threads
this will be modified alot and more orginized as time goes on
Engine specs
more engine specs
and more
Performance Specifications of Production Cars
Engine builds and theory
B18C1 into an EG
The official LSvtec/LS VTECH/LSR/b20VTEC/b20VTECH Search
The official LSvtec/LS VTECH/LSR/b20VTEC/b20VTECH Thread
GSR ECU on an H22a
Piston deburring
D series piston comparison
B16a? How to tell
A Complete How-To and Guide: Aeromotive FPR / Injector / Stainless Lines
D-series builds
header install
exhaust info
Installing and Measuring Bearing Clearances
how vtec works
Hondata Intake Manifold Installation
Naturally Aspirated B18C1 Motor Buildup Guide
dsm injectors on civic
B18C1 Motor Buildup Guide for Forced Induction
ls/vtec review
a little info about boost and hondas
gear ratios
honda engine comprasion ratios
Maintence
Clutch install
Keepin that paint shiny and new.
B18C Valve Adjustment
resetting the ecu
Main Relay
oil change
honda oem oil filters
fuel pump install
reseting the maintance required light
Electronics
V-AFC install
MSD install
checking the ecu codes
Honda ecu trouble codes
ecu codes
Supension, brakes, wheels and tires
aftermarket rim weights
how to lower your honda
sites - retail
INLINEFOUR.COM - Mon.~Sat. 9:30am~6:30pm PST - 7242 Garden Grove Blvd. Westminster, Ca. 92683
www.jdmhondaparts.com
Majestic Honda - The Internet's #1 Honda Automotive Parts Store
Specializing in JDM-USDM Engines & Parts...hmotorsonline.com
sites - info
Hondata - Honda ECU Modification and Enhancement
www.hybrid2.honda-perf.org
Phearable.net - Honda Fuel Injection Tuning Information & more. (EFI Intro Tutorials / Wiring Information / ECU information).
and more to come
*****admin/mods/regular honda techs please feel free to add any site/info/quote or whatever to help better the honda/acura faq..... also do not reply to this thread unless u have info to help better it********
Information on new iVTEC
More Honda info, GOOD SITE
http://www.civic4g.com/links.htm
http://servage.hondahookup.com/manua...002-03_rsx.pdf
This thread is to let you know what we tolerate here, and what we don't
We tolerate everything except:
Rice Pictures
Shop bashing of any sort
Sarcastic posts
Bickerilng/flaming
Post whoring
Honda bashing
Basically, this is a technical forum. We want technical posts, and if you don't have anything positive to contribute towards a post, please don't post it. if you do anyways, we'll just delete your post. Moderators can't read every post, so if you see something out of line, please PM any of us.
Many thanks
--------------------------------------------------------------
These are some helpful links to help anyone with a honda/acura tech questions
some of the threads are very old so do not reply to older threads
this will be modified alot and more orginized as time goes on
Engine specs
more engine specs
and more
Performance Specifications of Production Cars
Engine builds and theory
B18C1 into an EG
The official LSvtec/LS VTECH/LSR/b20VTEC/b20VTECH Search
The official LSvtec/LS VTECH/LSR/b20VTEC/b20VTECH Thread
GSR ECU on an H22a
Piston deburring
D series piston comparison
B16a? How to tell
A Complete How-To and Guide: Aeromotive FPR / Injector / Stainless Lines
D-series builds
header install
exhaust info
Installing and Measuring Bearing Clearances
how vtec works
Hondata Intake Manifold Installation
Naturally Aspirated B18C1 Motor Buildup Guide
dsm injectors on civic
B18C1 Motor Buildup Guide for Forced Induction
ls/vtec review
a little info about boost and hondas
gear ratios
honda engine comprasion ratios
Maintence
Clutch install
Keepin that paint shiny and new.
B18C Valve Adjustment
resetting the ecu
Main Relay
oil change
honda oem oil filters
fuel pump install
reseting the maintance required light
Electronics
V-AFC install
MSD install
checking the ecu codes
Honda ecu trouble codes
ecu codes
Supension, brakes, wheels and tires
aftermarket rim weights
how to lower your honda
sites - retail
INLINEFOUR.COM - Mon.~Sat. 9:30am~6:30pm PST - 7242 Garden Grove Blvd. Westminster, Ca. 92683
www.jdmhondaparts.com
Majestic Honda - The Internet's #1 Honda Automotive Parts Store
Specializing in JDM-USDM Engines & Parts...hmotorsonline.com
sites - info
Hondata - Honda ECU Modification and Enhancement
www.hybrid2.honda-perf.org
Phearable.net - Honda Fuel Injection Tuning Information & more. (EFI Intro Tutorials / Wiring Information / ECU information).
and more to come
*****admin/mods/regular honda techs please feel free to add any site/info/quote or whatever to help better the honda/acura faq..... also do not reply to this thread unless u have info to help better it********
Information on new iVTEC
More Honda info, GOOD SITE
http://www.civic4g.com/links.htm
http://servage.hondahookup.com/manua...002-03_rsx.pdf
Last edited by mtber; 10-26-2007 at 01:20 PM. Reason: adding link
Guest
Posts: n/a
cv axle install
Imma get this section off to a start. Since I own the same year series, and have 5 years of experience working on the cars, feel free to ask me anything on the 5th gen civics.
This is for an axle install which I know will work for the 92-95 Civics (all trim levels). It is about as easy as it gets.
First of course remove lugs and wheel(s). Next, the hub nut in the middle of the rotor may have a notch hammered into it to prevent it from backing out. Use anything small enough to wedge in there and hammer it back out to be kind of round.
Next, you'll need a 32mm socket and either a strong impact gun or good breaker bar to remove the 32mm nut from the axle's end.
Next, you'll need to remove the castle nut at the bottom of the whole arm assembly. You may need some pliers to remove the cotter pin from the castle nut, and then a 17mm socket to remove the nut. After that, either simply hammer the hell out of the arm the stud slide into (NOT the stud the castle nut was threaded to) or, get a ball joint separater (looks like a giant tuning fork) and wedge that into the joint, and hammer the hell out of it.
Then, you should be able to swing the whole assembly around. You may need to just loosely thread the axle nut onto the end of the axle to hammer it out of the hub assembly. If you're not re-using this axle, then just hammer the axle itself.
Some of the Civics, the axle went through the fork in the suspension, in that case, remove the nut and bolt (SHOULD BE 17mm), and then you can pry the other end of the axle out.
Reverse that order for installation. I find it easier to slide the outter end of the axle into the hub first, and then hammer it into the tranny side second. Be careful with the axle though. Hammering directly on the axle could musrhoom the end of it, making for a good headache and burst of obscenities later. Just loosely thread the axle nut onto the axle and use it to hammer. Let me know if there's any quetions for this installation.
This is for an axle install which I know will work for the 92-95 Civics (all trim levels). It is about as easy as it gets.
First of course remove lugs and wheel(s). Next, the hub nut in the middle of the rotor may have a notch hammered into it to prevent it from backing out. Use anything small enough to wedge in there and hammer it back out to be kind of round.
Next, you'll need a 32mm socket and either a strong impact gun or good breaker bar to remove the 32mm nut from the axle's end.
Next, you'll need to remove the castle nut at the bottom of the whole arm assembly. You may need some pliers to remove the cotter pin from the castle nut, and then a 17mm socket to remove the nut. After that, either simply hammer the hell out of the arm the stud slide into (NOT the stud the castle nut was threaded to) or, get a ball joint separater (looks like a giant tuning fork) and wedge that into the joint, and hammer the hell out of it.
Then, you should be able to swing the whole assembly around. You may need to just loosely thread the axle nut onto the end of the axle to hammer it out of the hub assembly. If you're not re-using this axle, then just hammer the axle itself.
Some of the Civics, the axle went through the fork in the suspension, in that case, remove the nut and bolt (SHOULD BE 17mm), and then you can pry the other end of the axle out.
Reverse that order for installation. I find it easier to slide the outter end of the axle into the hub first, and then hammer it into the tranny side second. Be careful with the axle though. Hammering directly on the axle could musrhoom the end of it, making for a good headache and burst of obscenities later. Just loosely thread the axle nut onto the axle and use it to hammer. Let me know if there's any quetions for this installation.
Guest
Posts: n/a
TECH: some gear ratio questions answered
Soruce:
ttp://customimport.simplisticmedia.com
Jerome Soh
" Can you explain the advantages of your combination of Non-vtec engine with
GSR tranny. I believe thats what you have and remember you discussing it,
but cannot find any of my old mail about it. Is there a better combination
that results in lower gearing ratios?
The advantage doesn't exclusively lie in the combination of non-vtec
engine with GSR tranny. The advantage solely lies in the nice gear
ratios of the GSR tranny. In other words, you don't necesarily have to
have the non-vtec motor to take advantage of the GSR ratios. They,
along with the RS/LS (94+) and Type R tranny ratios are as follows:
RS/LS GS-R Type R
3.230 3.230 3.230
1.900 1.900 2.105
1.269 1.360 1.468
0.966 1.034 1.117
0.714 0.787 0.850
FD 4.266 4.400 4.400
Let's compare the GSR and RS tranny. The first two gears are the same.
However, 3rd and 4th gear are about 7% shorter, and 5th gear is 10%
shorter ((0.787-0.714)/.714). Let us assume that the final drive is the
same for now. In 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears, you will get noticeably
improved acceleration. It's _almost_ like having 7% more torque in 3rd
and 4th at any given time (it's not _quite_ like this, and I'll get to
that in a moment) and 10% more torque in 5th. This comes at the
sacrifice of top speed in any given gear. Now, with a 7000 rpm redline,
my top speed is about 220 km/h rev limited (it's still got lots to go...
it literally 'slams' into the limiter) with the GSR tranny. Personally,
I don't need to be up that high on the race track. On my home track, I
hit about 170 km/h down the main straight. On this particular track,
I'd ideally like to increase FD to get even better acceleration at the
expense of top speed, which brings us to the next topic: FD. FD is
exactly what it says... the final reduction through the tranny before
the driveshafts. It affects all gears. The total reductions for the
gears would be the gear ratio multiplied times FD. Thus, if your engine
is at 5000 rpm, and you are in 4th gear using a GSR tranny (total
reduction of 4.4*1.034=4.55), the driveshafts would be turning at 1100
rpm (the calculated speed using 577 mm as the nominal tire diameter
would be 120 km/h, which pretty much corresponds to my speedo). FD
increases the overall ratio for all gears without affecting gear
_spacing_. Gear spacing determines how much engine speed drops between
shifts. For 2-3,3-4, and 4-5, gear spacing is very good on the GSR
tranny. However, from 1-2 the gap is a factor of 0.59. Thus, if you
shift at 7000 rpm, you'll end up at about 4100 rpm (I always seem to end
up much higher than this when I powershift ). I suspect the reason
Honda did this is to give good starting power in 1st gear in a car that
doesn't have much low end torque. Anyways, looking at the Type R
ratios, one can see that the gap between 1-2 is 1.54, which is much
better. The gaps between the other gears remain the same as on the
GSR. Honda has basically just moved gears 2-5 'closer' to 1st gear. If
we ignore 1st gear, a Type R tranny is essentially a GSR tranny with a
4.7-4.8 FD.
Now back to the issue of why improving a gear by 7% isn't quite the same
as getting 7% more torque. When you do this, the top speed in that
particular gear will be reduced and thus you'll have to shift sooner.
Thus, you'll be spending the 'extra' time that you would have been in
the lower gear with the poorer ratios in a higher gear with the better
ratios. Even though the better higher gear has better ratios, it still
won't be as good as the poorer lower gear. But overall, the effect is
improved acceleration and lap times. There is a limit though. Shifting
takes time and thus you don't want to have a zillion gears spaced 0.99
apart with an engine with a big SPIKE for it's powerband . That is
why Formula 1 and Indy cars are generally limited to 6-7 gears. Ramanan
has gone the other way by using a non-vtec tranny and GSR motor in hopes
of being able to stay in 3rd for his 1/4 mile run. With his particular
setup, that may just be the way to go for a 1/4 mile run. However, with
my 7000 rpm redline, the shorter gearing I can get the better. I have
to make 4 shifts during my 1/4 mile runs (I get into 5th), but all are
pretty quick and I'm definitely getting better times due to the gearing."
Kaz Mori
"Jerome mentioned the ideal of having infinite gears. On a related note,
Nissan has mated a 200hp engine to a CVT, and Honda claims it can build a
CVT that can take up to 300hp... As you know, until now, the only "real"
CVT was the one that's in the HX, but only takes 117hp or so.
Hmmm... The CVT is actually quite efficient, and it infinitely geared --
if it's strong enough, we may see it in place of the sequential shifters..."
[Ed : okay this is initially Ramanan's thoughts, but read his followup
a bit later, and he's had a change of thoughts.]
Ramanan Thiagarajah
"Reading Jerome's article on the differences between running the LS tranny
and the GS-R tranny, irrespective on which motor combination, I have some
input on the application-side of it. Leaving the number-crunching and
theoretical side out of it... (once an understanding of the numbers have been
established, testing follows) here goes on what happened from a GS-R to LS
tranny switch on the B18C motor.
The first outcome is lower figures on the dyno... this is in the 9 - 12%
range. The thing is that most dyno-testing is done in 3rd gear and just a
7% reduction (as Jerome's figures indicate) is accurate, but it ends up
being more because it just takes longer for the motor to wind out... every
increment in RPM's is affected... the gearing itself produces lower torque
values and at the same time the motor's capacity to rev-up decreases also.
On the track... 60-foot etc. DOES NOT CHANGE... this follows from the fact
that 1st and 2nd gears are the same. On the switch to 3rd, however, there
is a noticeable RPM drop and it just takes that much longer for 3rd to wind
out.From around 6500 to 9000 RPM's it seems that the car MOVES more... even
though it revs out noticeably slower. E.T's are affected slightly (around
15/100 to 20/100 seconds slower) and MPH seems unaffected (this is difficult
to determine as I was bracket-racing and couldn't really guage this
accurateley)
On another point. A friend had the B18C with the GS-R tranny and made an
almost IDENTICAL power-band on the dyno as I did with the B18C and the LS
tranny. Peak horsepower was identical as well as the curve from 6000 to 9000
rpms (this being appropriate for drag-racing). On the track.. after at least
10 - 12 runs... (driver-error can be discounted)... E.T's were consistently
0.4 - 0.6 seconds apart with the B18C/LS outdoing the B18C/GS-R.
The part I am not clear in is if the power-band and tranny combo is more
important than just the tranny itself. I mean if a motor made peak horsepower
but a very poor band and we had a tranny (very short gears) that made use
of this very narrow band of horsepower, then it would be good..."
--- discovery! ---
"Never mind the hype on the numbers and the ratios of these trannys, but
god---m.... this thing is crazy. It is a TREMENDOUS difference (seat-of-the-
pants type) after the switch from LS to Y2 <=== my correction.
First gear pulls much harder, but the crazy part is the switch to 2nd... oh my!
The rpm's drop literally about 50% of what they used to.. at a 8500 shift it
drops to ~7100 and spins literally (no exaggeration) the WHOLE of 2nd gear...
and these arn't stock VX tires... DUNLOP SP2000 205/50/15's. Shift to 3rd and
it lights up... the drop is the same.. to 7100. You don't notice how quicker
it revvs up until you hit 3rd... it is a HUGE difference. 3rd obviously takes
a little longer to wind-out and hit 4th... tires spin a bit and in my estimate
the 1/4 ends just before the end of 4th. With 20" slicks I estimate the 1320
ending at around 8700 in 4th gear.
To whoever reads this... guys/girls... if you can somehow get this or the
Type-R tranny.... or at least the gears and switch them to your LS or GS-R's...
PLEASE DO SO.... the difference is incredible. I have NEVER felt such a big
difference out of anything that I have done to the motor... I don't know how
this will translate to E.T's but it WORKS.... I am just so ecstatic."
Soruce:
ttp://customimport.simplisticmedia.com
Jerome Soh
" Can you explain the advantages of your combination of Non-vtec engine with
GSR tranny. I believe thats what you have and remember you discussing it,
but cannot find any of my old mail about it. Is there a better combination
that results in lower gearing ratios?
The advantage doesn't exclusively lie in the combination of non-vtec
engine with GSR tranny. The advantage solely lies in the nice gear
ratios of the GSR tranny. In other words, you don't necesarily have to
have the non-vtec motor to take advantage of the GSR ratios. They,
along with the RS/LS (94+) and Type R tranny ratios are as follows:
RS/LS GS-R Type R
3.230 3.230 3.230
1.900 1.900 2.105
1.269 1.360 1.468
0.966 1.034 1.117
0.714 0.787 0.850
FD 4.266 4.400 4.400
Let's compare the GSR and RS tranny. The first two gears are the same.
However, 3rd and 4th gear are about 7% shorter, and 5th gear is 10%
shorter ((0.787-0.714)/.714). Let us assume that the final drive is the
same for now. In 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears, you will get noticeably
improved acceleration. It's _almost_ like having 7% more torque in 3rd
and 4th at any given time (it's not _quite_ like this, and I'll get to
that in a moment) and 10% more torque in 5th. This comes at the
sacrifice of top speed in any given gear. Now, with a 7000 rpm redline,
my top speed is about 220 km/h rev limited (it's still got lots to go...
it literally 'slams' into the limiter) with the GSR tranny. Personally,
I don't need to be up that high on the race track. On my home track, I
hit about 170 km/h down the main straight. On this particular track,
I'd ideally like to increase FD to get even better acceleration at the
expense of top speed, which brings us to the next topic: FD. FD is
exactly what it says... the final reduction through the tranny before
the driveshafts. It affects all gears. The total reductions for the
gears would be the gear ratio multiplied times FD. Thus, if your engine
is at 5000 rpm, and you are in 4th gear using a GSR tranny (total
reduction of 4.4*1.034=4.55), the driveshafts would be turning at 1100
rpm (the calculated speed using 577 mm as the nominal tire diameter
would be 120 km/h, which pretty much corresponds to my speedo). FD
increases the overall ratio for all gears without affecting gear
_spacing_. Gear spacing determines how much engine speed drops between
shifts. For 2-3,3-4, and 4-5, gear spacing is very good on the GSR
tranny. However, from 1-2 the gap is a factor of 0.59. Thus, if you
shift at 7000 rpm, you'll end up at about 4100 rpm (I always seem to end
up much higher than this when I powershift ). I suspect the reason
Honda did this is to give good starting power in 1st gear in a car that
doesn't have much low end torque. Anyways, looking at the Type R
ratios, one can see that the gap between 1-2 is 1.54, which is much
better. The gaps between the other gears remain the same as on the
GSR. Honda has basically just moved gears 2-5 'closer' to 1st gear. If
we ignore 1st gear, a Type R tranny is essentially a GSR tranny with a
4.7-4.8 FD.
Now back to the issue of why improving a gear by 7% isn't quite the same
as getting 7% more torque. When you do this, the top speed in that
particular gear will be reduced and thus you'll have to shift sooner.
Thus, you'll be spending the 'extra' time that you would have been in
the lower gear with the poorer ratios in a higher gear with the better
ratios. Even though the better higher gear has better ratios, it still
won't be as good as the poorer lower gear. But overall, the effect is
improved acceleration and lap times. There is a limit though. Shifting
takes time and thus you don't want to have a zillion gears spaced 0.99
apart with an engine with a big SPIKE for it's powerband . That is
why Formula 1 and Indy cars are generally limited to 6-7 gears. Ramanan
has gone the other way by using a non-vtec tranny and GSR motor in hopes
of being able to stay in 3rd for his 1/4 mile run. With his particular
setup, that may just be the way to go for a 1/4 mile run. However, with
my 7000 rpm redline, the shorter gearing I can get the better. I have
to make 4 shifts during my 1/4 mile runs (I get into 5th), but all are
pretty quick and I'm definitely getting better times due to the gearing."
Kaz Mori
"Jerome mentioned the ideal of having infinite gears. On a related note,
Nissan has mated a 200hp engine to a CVT, and Honda claims it can build a
CVT that can take up to 300hp... As you know, until now, the only "real"
CVT was the one that's in the HX, but only takes 117hp or so.
Hmmm... The CVT is actually quite efficient, and it infinitely geared --
if it's strong enough, we may see it in place of the sequential shifters..."
[Ed : okay this is initially Ramanan's thoughts, but read his followup
a bit later, and he's had a change of thoughts.]
Ramanan Thiagarajah
"Reading Jerome's article on the differences between running the LS tranny
and the GS-R tranny, irrespective on which motor combination, I have some
input on the application-side of it. Leaving the number-crunching and
theoretical side out of it... (once an understanding of the numbers have been
established, testing follows) here goes on what happened from a GS-R to LS
tranny switch on the B18C motor.
The first outcome is lower figures on the dyno... this is in the 9 - 12%
range. The thing is that most dyno-testing is done in 3rd gear and just a
7% reduction (as Jerome's figures indicate) is accurate, but it ends up
being more because it just takes longer for the motor to wind out... every
increment in RPM's is affected... the gearing itself produces lower torque
values and at the same time the motor's capacity to rev-up decreases also.
On the track... 60-foot etc. DOES NOT CHANGE... this follows from the fact
that 1st and 2nd gears are the same. On the switch to 3rd, however, there
is a noticeable RPM drop and it just takes that much longer for 3rd to wind
out.From around 6500 to 9000 RPM's it seems that the car MOVES more... even
though it revs out noticeably slower. E.T's are affected slightly (around
15/100 to 20/100 seconds slower) and MPH seems unaffected (this is difficult
to determine as I was bracket-racing and couldn't really guage this
accurateley)
On another point. A friend had the B18C with the GS-R tranny and made an
almost IDENTICAL power-band on the dyno as I did with the B18C and the LS
tranny. Peak horsepower was identical as well as the curve from 6000 to 9000
rpms (this being appropriate for drag-racing). On the track.. after at least
10 - 12 runs... (driver-error can be discounted)... E.T's were consistently
0.4 - 0.6 seconds apart with the B18C/LS outdoing the B18C/GS-R.
The part I am not clear in is if the power-band and tranny combo is more
important than just the tranny itself. I mean if a motor made peak horsepower
but a very poor band and we had a tranny (very short gears) that made use
of this very narrow band of horsepower, then it would be good..."
--- discovery! ---
"Never mind the hype on the numbers and the ratios of these trannys, but
god---m.... this thing is crazy. It is a TREMENDOUS difference (seat-of-the-
pants type) after the switch from LS to Y2 <=== my correction.
First gear pulls much harder, but the crazy part is the switch to 2nd... oh my!
The rpm's drop literally about 50% of what they used to.. at a 8500 shift it
drops to ~7100 and spins literally (no exaggeration) the WHOLE of 2nd gear...
and these arn't stock VX tires... DUNLOP SP2000 205/50/15's. Shift to 3rd and
it lights up... the drop is the same.. to 7100. You don't notice how quicker
it revvs up until you hit 3rd... it is a HUGE difference. 3rd obviously takes
a little longer to wind-out and hit 4th... tires spin a bit and in my estimate
the 1/4 ends just before the end of 4th. With 20" slicks I estimate the 1320
ending at around 8700 in 4th gear.
To whoever reads this... guys/girls... if you can somehow get this or the
Type-R tranny.... or at least the gears and switch them to your LS or GS-R's...
PLEASE DO SO.... the difference is incredible. I have NEVER felt such a big
difference out of anything that I have done to the motor... I don't know how
this will translate to E.T's but it WORKS.... I am just so ecstatic."
Last edited by Cold_Beer; 06-15-2006 at 06:19 PM.
Dr. Doom
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Honda Short Shifter Install
Short Shifter Install – By integra_nemesis
Tools you’ll need: Basic Hand Tools
Jack and/or jack stands (hydraulic is preferred, but manual will do.)
12mm and 10mm sockets
12mm spanner
Vise grips or pliers
An extra pair of hands
White Lithium Grease
Phillips and standard screwdriver
10mm offset spanner (optional)
For: Integras & Civics (not sure for other honda cars, but it can't differ too much.)
First, you want to remove the center console. 4 screws in the back section hold it. If you pop up that tab in the middle of the console, there are two screws there, and finally the two screws down in the front. There are two more, behind the section where the ashtray is. (Only on G3 Integra’s/Civics are much easier)
Now that you have the console out, go ahead and jack up the car. I chose the passenger side, you can do it from what ever side you like. Be sure to chock the back wheels and be sure your e-brake is on good and tight. You also have the option of unbolting or taking the cat off its hanger’s, I did neither; probably would’ve made reassembly easier though.
Once you have the car jacked up, grab your 12mm socket and spanner. Take out the bolt at the bottom of the shift lever. Use the spanner to hold one side still, while you ratchet the other side.
Now, grab your 10mm socket and go to work on the two mounting bolts. First, pull back the rubber weather seal. This is the tricky part, and a horrible design by Honda on the bolts. Have someone with pliers or vise grips hold the flat tops of the bolts while you undo the nut from underneath. Have patience though; the pliers will slip, many, many times!
With the two mounting bolts out, slide your shifter out the bottom of the car. Slide the metal bracket off the bottom of the shifter, and slide the rubber bushing toward the top; you can use some white lithium grease to aid in this.
If your shifter didn’t come with it’s own sealed bearings, you’ll need to reuse the stock bearing. It just slides out of the stock shifter. Honda recommends replacing the o-rings on the stock bearing itself. So keep that in mind before putting this thing in. Also, if your shifter did not come with the 12mm self-locking nut for the bottom of the shift lever, get one of these from Honda as well.
Now, with your new shifter, lube up the ball joint with the lithium grease, don’t be afraid to get dirty. Slide the rubber bushing onto the new shifter the way it came off the stock shifter. When it’s on, put more grease down in the bushing. Also, lube the bearings while you’re at it. Before putting the shifter in, put the mount back on the new shifter as not to forget it.
From under the car put the new shifter in. Use the new bolt and self-locking nut to attach the bottom of the new shifter to the linkage. Be sure to tighten it now, don’t wait and go back to it.
Now comes for the most challenging part. Reassembling the mount. I found it easier to do the front bolt if I put the car in 1st gear. Again, someone will have to be up top with pliers or vise grips. The back bolt is the most difficult. I found I had the most room if I put the car in reverse; and to get it started by hand. What also may help is an offset spanner, but it’s not required.
Now that you have the mount on, you can reset the weather seal up top. Put the console back together; let down the car and drive.
*** Please note: This is just a general guide, every shifter and car will be a little different; this is just to provide a little help. You should contact the manufacturer of your shifter for more explicit instructions or help. ***
Tools you’ll need: Basic Hand Tools
Jack and/or jack stands (hydraulic is preferred, but manual will do.)
12mm and 10mm sockets
12mm spanner
Vise grips or pliers
An extra pair of hands
White Lithium Grease
Phillips and standard screwdriver
10mm offset spanner (optional)
For: Integras & Civics (not sure for other honda cars, but it can't differ too much.)
First, you want to remove the center console. 4 screws in the back section hold it. If you pop up that tab in the middle of the console, there are two screws there, and finally the two screws down in the front. There are two more, behind the section where the ashtray is. (Only on G3 Integra’s/Civics are much easier)
Now that you have the console out, go ahead and jack up the car. I chose the passenger side, you can do it from what ever side you like. Be sure to chock the back wheels and be sure your e-brake is on good and tight. You also have the option of unbolting or taking the cat off its hanger’s, I did neither; probably would’ve made reassembly easier though.
Once you have the car jacked up, grab your 12mm socket and spanner. Take out the bolt at the bottom of the shift lever. Use the spanner to hold one side still, while you ratchet the other side.
Now, grab your 10mm socket and go to work on the two mounting bolts. First, pull back the rubber weather seal. This is the tricky part, and a horrible design by Honda on the bolts. Have someone with pliers or vise grips hold the flat tops of the bolts while you undo the nut from underneath. Have patience though; the pliers will slip, many, many times!
With the two mounting bolts out, slide your shifter out the bottom of the car. Slide the metal bracket off the bottom of the shifter, and slide the rubber bushing toward the top; you can use some white lithium grease to aid in this.
If your shifter didn’t come with it’s own sealed bearings, you’ll need to reuse the stock bearing. It just slides out of the stock shifter. Honda recommends replacing the o-rings on the stock bearing itself. So keep that in mind before putting this thing in. Also, if your shifter did not come with the 12mm self-locking nut for the bottom of the shift lever, get one of these from Honda as well.
Now, with your new shifter, lube up the ball joint with the lithium grease, don’t be afraid to get dirty. Slide the rubber bushing onto the new shifter the way it came off the stock shifter. When it’s on, put more grease down in the bushing. Also, lube the bearings while you’re at it. Before putting the shifter in, put the mount back on the new shifter as not to forget it.
From under the car put the new shifter in. Use the new bolt and self-locking nut to attach the bottom of the new shifter to the linkage. Be sure to tighten it now, don’t wait and go back to it.
Now comes for the most challenging part. Reassembling the mount. I found it easier to do the front bolt if I put the car in 1st gear. Again, someone will have to be up top with pliers or vise grips. The back bolt is the most difficult. I found I had the most room if I put the car in reverse; and to get it started by hand. What also may help is an offset spanner, but it’s not required.
Now that you have the mount on, you can reset the weather seal up top. Put the console back together; let down the car and drive.
*** Please note: This is just a general guide, every shifter and car will be a little different; this is just to provide a little help. You should contact the manufacturer of your shifter for more explicit instructions or help. ***
LS1FTW
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http://www.hasport.com/Tech/Hasport%20Tech.htm
Some good info i found from Hasport... technical instructions, along with other technical swap outlines, wiring charts, and ECU information.
Some good info i found from Hasport... technical instructions, along with other technical swap outlines, wiring charts, and ECU information.
TR Balla Donor Supreme
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onecattyKat: everybody wants colby
onecattyKat: everybody wants colby
Dr. Doom
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a good resource for doing auto to manual swaps on F22, F23, H22, H23 engines.
http://www.extremeredline.net/accord/automanual.html
http://www.extremeredline.net/accord/automanual.html
Honda Tech/ Local AssHole
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FAQ Honda How To , Build up guides
Mods please sticky !!
How to step by step FI buildup B20VTEC LSVTEC and other guides with pictures.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php
How to step by step FI buildup B20VTEC LSVTEC and other guides with pictures.
http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php
