Honda/Acura FAQ - Please Review This Before Making A Post!
Rockin' 4 more Cylinders
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 11,897
Likes: 0
Cleaned it up a lil, just to get rid of some chit chat.....and
Trouble codes FTW
1
dOxygen Sensor "A" (Primary)
2
Oxygen Sensor "B"
3
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
4
CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor)
5
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
mechanical problem / disconnected piping
6
ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
7
TP Sensor (Throttle Position)
8
TDC Sensor (Top Dead Center)
9*
CYP Sensor (Cylinder)
10
IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)
12
EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
13
BARO Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure)
14
IAC Valve (Idle Air Control)
15
Ignition Output Signal
16
Fuel Injector System
17
VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
r
19
Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve
20
Electrical Load Detector
21*
VTEC Solenoid Valve
22*
VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
23
KS (Knock Sensor)
30
Automatic Transmission Signal: "A" / SEAF / SEFA / TMA or TMB
31
Automatic Transmission Signal "B"
41
Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater
43
Fuel Supply System
45
System Too Lean or Too Rich
malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems
48
LAF Sensor (Lean Air Fuel)
54
CKF Sensor (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation)
58
TDC Sensor 2 (Top Dead Center)
61
Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 1 (Primary)
high voltage, low voltage, or slow response
63
Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 2 (Secondary)
high voltage, low voltage, or slow response
65
Oxygen Sensor Heater (Secondary)
67
Catalyst system Efficiency Below Threshold
70
Automatic Transmission
71
Cylinder 1 Misfire or a Random Misfire
72
Cylinder 2 Misfire or a Random Misfire
73
Cylinder 3 Misfire or a Random Misfire
74
Cylinder 4 Misfire or a Random Misfire
75
Cylinder 5 Misfire or a Random Misfire
76
Cylinder 6 Misfire or a Random Misfire
80
Exhaust Gas Recirculation
86
ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
90
Evaporative Emission Control System
leak detected in the fuel tank area
91
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
low input
92
Evaporative Emission Control System
Trouble codes FTW
1
dOxygen Sensor "A" (Primary)
2
Oxygen Sensor "B"
3
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
4
CKP Sensor (Crankshaft Position Sensor)
5
MAP Sensor (Manifold Absolute Pressure)
mechanical problem / disconnected piping
6
ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
7
TP Sensor (Throttle Position)
8
TDC Sensor (Top Dead Center)
9*
CYP Sensor (Cylinder)
10
IAT Sensor (Intake Air Temperature)
12
EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
13
BARO Sensor (Atmospheric Pressure)
14
IAC Valve (Idle Air Control)
15
Ignition Output Signal
16
Fuel Injector System
17
VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
r
19
Automatic Transmission Lock Up Control Solenoid Valve
20
Electrical Load Detector
21*
VTEC Solenoid Valve
22*
VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
23
KS (Knock Sensor)
30
Automatic Transmission Signal: "A" / SEAF / SEFA / TMA or TMB
31
Automatic Transmission Signal "B"
41
Primary Oxygen Sensor - Heater
43
Fuel Supply System
45
System Too Lean or Too Rich
malfunction in the fuel monitoring systems
48
LAF Sensor (Lean Air Fuel)
54
CKF Sensor (Crankshaft Speed Fluctuation)
58
TDC Sensor 2 (Top Dead Center)
61
Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 1 (Primary)
high voltage, low voltage, or slow response
63
Oxygen Sensor, Heated - Sensor 2 (Secondary)
high voltage, low voltage, or slow response
65
Oxygen Sensor Heater (Secondary)
67
Catalyst system Efficiency Below Threshold
70
Automatic Transmission
71
Cylinder 1 Misfire or a Random Misfire
72
Cylinder 2 Misfire or a Random Misfire
73
Cylinder 3 Misfire or a Random Misfire
74
Cylinder 4 Misfire or a Random Misfire
75
Cylinder 5 Misfire or a Random Misfire
76
Cylinder 6 Misfire or a Random Misfire
80
Exhaust Gas Recirculation
86
ECT Sensor (Engine Coolant Temperature)
90
Evaporative Emission Control System
leak detected in the fuel tank area
91
Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor
low input
92
Evaporative Emission Control System
__________________
RIP Kevin Gonzales AKA Slo_Si 9/06
RIP Robert Kolp aka 00ek 4/07
RIP Pablo Garcia aka FatHead 9/07
_Jake D
RIP Kevin Gonzales AKA Slo_Si 9/06
RIP Robert Kolp aka 00ek 4/07
RIP Pablo Garcia aka FatHead 9/07
_Jake D
Last edited by Cold_Beer; Jun 5, 2006 at 09:02 PM.
Rockin' 4 more Cylinders
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 11,897
Likes: 0
The official LSvtec/LS VTECH/LSR/b20VTEC/b20VTECH thread.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q...=Google+Search
please others contribute your ls vtec info. and any questions ansewered.
ANY LS VTEC THREAD MADE WILL BE LOCKED.
~Jake
please others contribute your ls vtec info. and any questions ansewered.
ANY LS VTEC THREAD MADE WILL BE LOCKED.
~Jake
__________________
RIP Kevin Gonzales AKA Slo_Si 9/06
RIP Robert Kolp aka 00ek 4/07
RIP Pablo Garcia aka FatHead 9/07
_Jake D
RIP Kevin Gonzales AKA Slo_Si 9/06
RIP Robert Kolp aka 00ek 4/07
RIP Pablo Garcia aka FatHead 9/07
_Jake D
Honda Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,265
Likes: 0
Broke not Built
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 8,730
Likes: 0
might try and add this link for helpful tips on gen 2 integra's....(90-93) http://g2ic.com/tegtips/
__________________
working my way back up...
Originally Posted by JoKiE crx4294
What do i have to prove to anyone?....umm NOTHING!!
working my way back up...
Originally Posted by JoKiE crx4294
What do i have to prove to anyone?....umm NOTHING!!
EFI Tech/Tuner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
How To Build A LS/VTEC From the Top Down. Please add or replace parts at your discression 
______________________________________________
I am writing this and assuming that if you plan on going through with the steps provided below that you have an understanding of engine building, you own a Helm's (or equivalent) manual, and you have the parts and tools you need for the minimum (in my opinion) build. An engine stand would be helpful to have, it is not necessary but it is very helpful. You can get them at any major parts store.
Our LSVTEC parts list gives several options, here is the list (beyond block and head) that I would call a minimum:
Pistons from any B16 because LS pistons do not have large enough valve reliefs for VTEC intake valves. Forged pistons would be better, but if you can afford them B16 pistons will work well.
New piston rings. Honda rings work well, or you can use your preferred aftermarket.
Cam gears (brand is up to you), some folks have had trouble with AEM gears slipping.
A B series DOHC VTEC distributor. An LS one will work with some modifications.
An ECU that matches the OBD of your engine and that is setup to run a DOHC VTEC engine. A P30, P61 or a chipped P28 would work fine for an OBD1 car. Also, if you are using a GSR head, and the stock intake manifold, you are going to want a P72 from the GSR in order to control the IAB butterflies.
Water and oil pumps from a B16, GSR or ITR. I don't consider using the LS water pump an option as it is likely to cavitate at high RPM. This means you have to run the GSR timing belt.
ARP rod bolts. If you are using LS rods this is not a must, but it is a damn good idea. The stock LS bolts were not designed to handle the forces of 8000 RPM. $55 is not much to pay for peace of mind.
ARP head studs. They hold better than stock and you don't run the risk of destroying the threads in the block every time you pull the head. You will need to purchase the correct studs for the head you are running, you can find these(or the part number) for them on our site under
First, the modifications that you will need to perform on the bottom end. You won't actually change anything in the bottom end, just the normal steps that you would take if you were rebuilding the engine.
Once the bottom end is disassembled you should take it to a machinist to have the cylinder walls honed, make sure that you keep the piston to wall clearance within spec for the pistons that you are using. It's a good idea to bring your pistons and rings to the machine shop with you so that they can perfectly spec them to match. Its also a good idea to have your crank polished, and have the rotating assembly balanced. When you are reassembling the bottom end make sure to check all the bearing clearances with plastigauge. I am not including any pictures of the bottom end rebuild because they can all be found in your Helms manual.
There are several modifications in this step; first you will need to have a machinist open the holes on the intake side of the engine to accept dowel pins, Some people dont do this, but end up kicking themselfs in the end when the head doesnt quite line up right.
Next you will have to tap the VTEC oil passage and plug it using a set screw.(another good idea is to have a welder fill the hole) If you bought a kit for your oil line it most likely came with a set screw to plug this passage. 3/8" NPT to either a -3 or -4an line, depending on your line/kit. It HAS to go into the head far enough so that it does not affect the way you head sits on the gasket! Make sure to apply a little thread lock to this set screw.(if you dont weld the hole shut)
Next you need to decide where you want to run your oil line. There are two spots where the line can attach to the head.
Make sure to use Teflon tape on all of these connections except the two connections to the external oil line, as they will be self sealing.
Make sure to clay your engine for proper clearances if you are running aftermarket cams and/or aftermarket pistons. When you are assembling the engine, make sure to use generous amounts of assembly lube on any metal to metal contact area except your piston rings. Use regular, non-synthetic, engine oil on them. This will protect your engine for the first few seconds that it runs before your oil starts flowing.
If you bought a VTEC conversion Sandwhich adapter, you can skip the next step.
Now you are ready to install the oil T on the block. Next to the oil filter will be your oil pressure sending unit. Remove the sending unit from the block. This is where you will be installing the oil T.
Install the T before you install the oil filter.
First, apply some Teflon tape to the adapter that will be threading into the block, make sure to apply the tape to the side that will thread into the block and the side that will thread into the T. Start the adapter threading into the T, then thread the T into the block. Make sure it is snug, but be careful not to over tighten.
Next, apply some Teflon tape to the oil pressure sending unit. Then thread the sending unit into the T. It does not matter which spot on the T that you use. I chose up because it made routing the oil line more simple. Apply some Teflon tape to the end of the fitting that will thread into the oil T and install it. Again, make sure everything is snug, but be careful not to over tighten.(these fitting will break!!)
Now install the oil line. If you are using the InlineFour or a smiliar kit, your assembled engine should look something like this:
Now install the engine and tranny. Procedure on this is out of the scope of this article, however, wiring it up is not.
If you already had a DOHC VTEC motor in your car than the engine harness will plug'n play. If you are running a GSR head and have a B16 harness you will need to follow the steps below for the IAB wires. The B18A blocks have a knock sensor thread in the back to the right of the oil filter, were the B18B blocks do not. In this case you would need to tap a hole( 1/8 NTP) in the block somewere perferably in a coolent passage on the back of the block if you want to run a knock sensor. Any factory ECU that runs knock control WILL need a knock sensor, or you will get a constant CEL (check engine light), and poor performance. Any chipped or moddified ECU can easily disable the knock sensor if you like. We can offer this service as well..
If you were running a Non VTEC harness, you will have to run 2, 3, or 4 wires through the firewall to the ECU. Two to the VTEC solenoid, one to the knock sensor (if your ECU requires one), and one to the IAB (if you are using the gsr head with the stock intake manifold for the butterflies). Where you run these wires to on the ECU depends on your OBD version and which ECU you are using. You can ground the VTEC switch to the engine or any good ground source, so there is no reason to run that wire through the firewall.
As long as you have everything hooked up properly your engine should start.
Onto the break in, there are sooo many theories on how to properly break in an engine, Here is the method I use, and has yet to fail me in over 10yrs.
Make sure the floor beneath your engine is clean, or lay some newspaper down. On the first start up,let the engine come up to operating temp. when it reaches this, bring the revs up to about 2000RPM for about 5 minutes Make sure that you are flowing water, and that your fan(s) kick in when they should. While your engine is warming up check for any leaks; this is where the clean floor comes in handy. Now at this point I like to change the oil and filter again, you dont want any of the new breakin material finding its way into one of you new bearng faces do you? After the 2nd change If you don't have any leaks, take you car out and do a couple of 1st gear pulls at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle stopping at 5000 or 5500 RPM and letting the motor wind down by itself still in gear to around 1000 to 2000RPM. This loads the rings to help them seat to the cylinder walls. Then do a couple 2nd gear pulls the same way, then some 3rd gear pulls. Now change your oil. Drain the oil into a clean open pan. Check the oil for metal. There will be some, but make sure you don't have a lot of metal floating in the oil. If you have a lot of metal in the oil you should disassemble the bottom end and check all your bearings for excessive wear. You probably have a rod or main bearing that does not have enough clearance. If everything is clear then drive your car for about 500 miles. Try not to exceed 6500 to 7000 RPM for the first 50 to 100 miles,There are many theories on how to break a motor in, but after the rings seat, you can proceed to drive the car normal, dont kill the motor right away, but dont baby it either, For the 1st few drives keep an eye on oil levels and water levels, as well as temps. You can use the full rev range if you feel confident after the 1st 100 miles, but use your head(assuming that you haven't developed any problems). Change the oil again at 500 miles. and again at 1000 miles. It is now safe to run synthetic oil (in fact I recommend it). I used this break in method on my car And every engine we build. I have done many teardowns after these break-ins and the motors show NO signs of damage, or premature wear...
I hope you found this guide helpful. The normal disclaimer applies: Neither Modified Racing Inc ( WWW.MODIFIEDRACING.NET ), staff nor myself are responsible for any damage you do to your car or YOU!!. I have written this guide to the best of my ability and these steps are the same I used when building my engine. If you are unsure about any step or feel that this guide could be improved in any way please contact me at Sales@ModifiedRacing.Net
HOW TO BUILD A LS/VTEC
(B18A/B Block With a DOHC VTEC head)______________________________________________
I am writing this and assuming that if you plan on going through with the steps provided below that you have an understanding of engine building, you own a Helm's (or equivalent) manual, and you have the parts and tools you need for the minimum (in my opinion) build. An engine stand would be helpful to have, it is not necessary but it is very helpful. You can get them at any major parts store.
Our LSVTEC parts list gives several options, here is the list (beyond block and head) that I would call a minimum:
Pistons from any B16 because LS pistons do not have large enough valve reliefs for VTEC intake valves. Forged pistons would be better, but if you can afford them B16 pistons will work well.
New piston rings. Honda rings work well, or you can use your preferred aftermarket.
Cam gears (brand is up to you), some folks have had trouble with AEM gears slipping.
A B series DOHC VTEC distributor. An LS one will work with some modifications.
An ECU that matches the OBD of your engine and that is setup to run a DOHC VTEC engine. A P30, P61 or a chipped P28 would work fine for an OBD1 car. Also, if you are using a GSR head, and the stock intake manifold, you are going to want a P72 from the GSR in order to control the IAB butterflies.
Water and oil pumps from a B16, GSR or ITR. I don't consider using the LS water pump an option as it is likely to cavitate at high RPM. This means you have to run the GSR timing belt.
ARP rod bolts. If you are using LS rods this is not a must, but it is a damn good idea. The stock LS bolts were not designed to handle the forces of 8000 RPM. $55 is not much to pay for peace of mind.
ARP head studs. They hold better than stock and you don't run the risk of destroying the threads in the block every time you pull the head. You will need to purchase the correct studs for the head you are running, you can find these(or the part number) for them on our site under
Engine/Hardware.
First, the modifications that you will need to perform on the bottom end. You won't actually change anything in the bottom end, just the normal steps that you would take if you were rebuilding the engine.
Once the bottom end is disassembled you should take it to a machinist to have the cylinder walls honed, make sure that you keep the piston to wall clearance within spec for the pistons that you are using. It's a good idea to bring your pistons and rings to the machine shop with you so that they can perfectly spec them to match. Its also a good idea to have your crank polished, and have the rotating assembly balanced. When you are reassembling the bottom end make sure to check all the bearing clearances with plastigauge. I am not including any pictures of the bottom end rebuild because they can all be found in your Helms manual.
The Head
There are several modifications in this step; first you will need to have a machinist open the holes on the intake side of the engine to accept dowel pins, Some people dont do this, but end up kicking themselfs in the end when the head doesnt quite line up right.
Pics will be up to to depict this:
Next you will have to tap the VTEC oil passage and plug it using a set screw.(another good idea is to have a welder fill the hole) If you bought a kit for your oil line it most likely came with a set screw to plug this passage. 3/8" NPT to either a -3 or -4an line, depending on your line/kit. It HAS to go into the head far enough so that it does not affect the way you head sits on the gasket! Make sure to apply a little thread lock to this set screw.(if you dont weld the hole shut)
Next you need to decide where you want to run your oil line. There are two spots where the line can attach to the head.
Pics will be up showing this as well:
Make sure to use Teflon tape on all of these connections except the two connections to the external oil line, as they will be self sealing.
Make sure to clay your engine for proper clearances if you are running aftermarket cams and/or aftermarket pistons. When you are assembling the engine, make sure to use generous amounts of assembly lube on any metal to metal contact area except your piston rings. Use regular, non-synthetic, engine oil on them. This will protect your engine for the first few seconds that it runs before your oil starts flowing.
If you bought a VTEC conversion Sandwhich adapter, you can skip the next step.
Now you are ready to install the oil T on the block. Next to the oil filter will be your oil pressure sending unit. Remove the sending unit from the block. This is where you will be installing the oil T.
Pics here soon:
Install the T before you install the oil filter.
First, apply some Teflon tape to the adapter that will be threading into the block, make sure to apply the tape to the side that will thread into the block and the side that will thread into the T. Start the adapter threading into the T, then thread the T into the block. Make sure it is snug, but be careful not to over tighten.
Next, apply some Teflon tape to the oil pressure sending unit. Then thread the sending unit into the T. It does not matter which spot on the T that you use. I chose up because it made routing the oil line more simple. Apply some Teflon tape to the end of the fitting that will thread into the oil T and install it. Again, make sure everything is snug, but be careful not to over tighten.(these fitting will break!!)
Now install the oil line. If you are using the InlineFour or a smiliar kit, your assembled engine should look something like this:
Pics up soon:
Now install the engine and tranny. Procedure on this is out of the scope of this article, however, wiring it up is not.
Finishing Touches
If you already had a DOHC VTEC motor in your car than the engine harness will plug'n play. If you are running a GSR head and have a B16 harness you will need to follow the steps below for the IAB wires. The B18A blocks have a knock sensor thread in the back to the right of the oil filter, were the B18B blocks do not. In this case you would need to tap a hole( 1/8 NTP) in the block somewere perferably in a coolent passage on the back of the block if you want to run a knock sensor. Any factory ECU that runs knock control WILL need a knock sensor, or you will get a constant CEL (check engine light), and poor performance. Any chipped or moddified ECU can easily disable the knock sensor if you like. We can offer this service as well..
If you were running a Non VTEC harness, you will have to run 2, 3, or 4 wires through the firewall to the ECU. Two to the VTEC solenoid, one to the knock sensor (if your ECU requires one), and one to the IAB (if you are using the gsr head with the stock intake manifold for the butterflies). Where you run these wires to on the ECU depends on your OBD version and which ECU you are using. You can ground the VTEC switch to the engine or any good ground source, so there is no reason to run that wire through the firewall.
As long as you have everything hooked up properly your engine should start.
Drive That Sucker!!
Onto the break in, there are sooo many theories on how to properly break in an engine, Here is the method I use, and has yet to fail me in over 10yrs.
Make sure the floor beneath your engine is clean, or lay some newspaper down. On the first start up,let the engine come up to operating temp. when it reaches this, bring the revs up to about 2000RPM for about 5 minutes Make sure that you are flowing water, and that your fan(s) kick in when they should. While your engine is warming up check for any leaks; this is where the clean floor comes in handy. Now at this point I like to change the oil and filter again, you dont want any of the new breakin material finding its way into one of you new bearng faces do you? After the 2nd change If you don't have any leaks, take you car out and do a couple of 1st gear pulls at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle stopping at 5000 or 5500 RPM and letting the motor wind down by itself still in gear to around 1000 to 2000RPM. This loads the rings to help them seat to the cylinder walls. Then do a couple 2nd gear pulls the same way, then some 3rd gear pulls. Now change your oil. Drain the oil into a clean open pan. Check the oil for metal. There will be some, but make sure you don't have a lot of metal floating in the oil. If you have a lot of metal in the oil you should disassemble the bottom end and check all your bearings for excessive wear. You probably have a rod or main bearing that does not have enough clearance. If everything is clear then drive your car for about 500 miles. Try not to exceed 6500 to 7000 RPM for the first 50 to 100 miles,There are many theories on how to break a motor in, but after the rings seat, you can proceed to drive the car normal, dont kill the motor right away, but dont baby it either, For the 1st few drives keep an eye on oil levels and water levels, as well as temps. You can use the full rev range if you feel confident after the 1st 100 miles, but use your head(assuming that you haven't developed any problems). Change the oil again at 500 miles. and again at 1000 miles. It is now safe to run synthetic oil (in fact I recommend it). I used this break in method on my car And every engine we build. I have done many teardowns after these break-ins and the motors show NO signs of damage, or premature wear...
I hope you found this guide helpful. The normal disclaimer applies: Neither Modified Racing Inc ( WWW.MODIFIEDRACING.NET ), staff nor myself are responsible for any damage you do to your car or YOU!!. I have written this guide to the best of my ability and these steps are the same I used when building my engine. If you are unsure about any step or feel that this guide could be improved in any way please contact me at Sales@ModifiedRacing.Net
__________________
Modified Racing
Street Tuning & Dyno Tuning the greater east coast area for over 10 years and running!
AEM/HONDATA/MOTEC/FAST/DEFI & More
EFI-101 Certified
(941)628-4988
AEM/HONDATA/MOTEC/FAST/DEFI & More
EFI-101 Certified
(941)628-4988
Last edited by Blown99civicSi; Jul 9, 2006 at 01:30 PM.
Rockin' 4 more Cylinders
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 11,897
Likes: 0
Sorry if someones posted this recently...and i guess this is tech 
Please make a sticky
This chart shows VIN # Identification. Enjoy...
1983 - 1989
Example VIN: 2HGEH234XNH537228
1st POSITION NATION OF ORIGIN
1 = USA
2 = Canada
3 = Mexico
J = Japan
K = Korea
V = France
2nd POSITION MANUFACTURER
H = Honda
3rd POSITION VEHICLE TYPE
M = Passenger Car, Built in Japan
G = Passenger Car, Built in USA/Canada
4th & 5th POSITION, 1983 BODY TYPE
SR = Sedan
WR = Wagon
4th & 5th POSITION, 1984-86 BODY TYPE I ENGINE
AD = Accord
AE = Prelude Sedan
AE = Civic, l300cc CRX
AF = Civic, l500cc CRX
AG = Civic, 1300cc 3 door
AH = Civic, l500cc 3 door
AK = Civic, 1500cc 4 door
AN = Civic, Wagon
AR = Civic, Wagon 4X4
BA = Accord
6th POSITION, 1983-86 TRANSMISSION CODE
2 = Semi-Hondamatic
3 = 3 Speed Automatic
4 = 4 Speed Manual
5 = 5 Speed Manual
6 = 5 Speed Manual-Super Low Gear
7 = 4 Speed Automatic
4th Thru 6th POSITION, 1987-89
CAR LINE/ENGINE
BA3 = Prelude SI
BA4 = Prelude 2.0L
BA8 = Prelude
CA5 = Accord
CA6 = Accord coupe
ECI = Civic CRX
EC2 = Civic 1300
EC3 = Civic 1500
EC4 = Civic4 DoorSedan
EC5 = Civic Wagon
EC6 = Civic Wagon 4X4
ED3 = Civic Sedan 1.5L (198
ED6 = Civic Hatchback 1.5L (198
ED7 = Civic Hatchback 1.6L (198
ED8 = Civic CRX 1.5L (198
ED9 = Civic CRX 1.6L (198
EE2 = Civic Wagon 1.5L (198
EE4 = Civic Wagon 1.6L (198
EY1 = Civic Wagovan
EY3 = Civic Wagovan 1.5L
7th POSITION, 1983-86 BODY TYPE
2 = 2 Door
3 = 3 Door
4 = 4 Door
5 = 5 Door
7th POSITION, 1987-89 BODY TYPE AND TRANSMISSION
1 = 2 Door Sedan, Manual
2 = 2 Door Sedan, Automatic
3 = 2 Door Hatchback, Manual
4 = 2 Door Hatchback, Auto
5 = 4 Door Sedan, Manual
6 = 4 Door Sedan, Automatic
7 = 4 Door Wagon, Manual
8 = 4 Door Wagon, Automatic
8th POSiTION GRADE
1 = Basic, HF
2 = Standard, DX
3 = GL, GLS, LX
4 = Lxi, SI
5 = Special
6 = Accord Hatchback
7 = Accord Hatchback & LXI
8th POSiTION GRADE, 1988-1989
2 = DX Accord Manual seat belt
2 = S Prelude Automatic ("passive") seat belt
3 = LX Accord Manual seat belt
3 = Si Prelude Automatic ("passive") seat belt
4 = LXi Accord Manual seat belt
4 = (std) Civic Hatchback Manual seat belt
4 = DX Civic Sedan Manual seat belt
4 = (std) Civic Wagovan Manual seat belt
4 = Si Prelude w/optional 4WS Automatic ("passive") seat belt
5 = DX Civic Hatchback Manual seat belt
5 = LX Civic Sedan Manual seat belt
5 = (std) Civic CRX Manual seat belt
5 = (std) '89 Civic CRX Automatic ("passive") seat belt
5 = (std) Civic Wagon Manual seat belt
5 = SEi Accord Manual seat belt
6 = DX Accord Automatic ("passive") seat belt
6 = HF Civic CRX Manual seat belt
6 = Si Civic CRX Manual seat belt
6 = Si '89 Civic CRX Automatic ("passive") seat belt
6 = Si Civic Hatchback Manual seat belt
6 = RTi Civic Wagon 4WD Manual seat belt
8 = LXi Accord Automatic ("passive") seat belt
9th POSITION CHECK DIGIT
10th POSITION MODEL YEAR
D = 1983
S = 1984
F = 1985
G = 1986
H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
11th POSITION ASSEMBLY PLANT
A = Marysville, Ohio, USA
C = Saitama, Japan
H = Alliston, Canada
L = S. Liberty, USA
S = Suzuka, Japan
T = Tochigi, Japan
12th Thru 17th POSITION PRODUCTION SEQUENCE NUMBER
This number starts at 000001 with the first car.
1990 - 1998
1st POSITION NATION OF ORIGIN
1 = USA
2 = Canada
3 = Mexico
J = Japan
K = Korea
V = France
2nd POSITION MANUFACTURER
H = Honda
3rd POSITION VEHICLE TYPE
M = Passenger Car, Built in Japan
G = Passenger Car, Built in USA/Canada
L = Multi purpose passenger vehicle
4th Thru 6th POSITION
CAR LINE I ENGINE
BA4 = Prelude, 2.0/2.1L
BA8 = Prelude, 2.2L
BB1 = Prelude VTEC, 2.2L
BB2 = Prelude, 2.3L
BB6 = Prelude 2-door
CB7 = Accord, 2.2L
CB9 = Accord Wagon, 2.2L
CD5 = Accord 4 Door 2.2L
CD7 = Accord 2 Door 2.2L
CE1 = Accord Wagon 2.2L
CE6 = Accord V6 4 Door 2.7L
CF8 = Accord 4 Door SOHC
CG1 = Accord 4 Door V6 VTEC
CG2 = Accord 2 Door V6 VTEC
CG3 = Accord 2 Door (VTEC or ULEV)
CG5 = Accord 4 Door VTEC
CG6 = Accord 4 Door ULEV
ED3 = Civic4 Door, 1.5L
ED4 = Civic 4 Door, 1.6L
ED6 = Civic 3 Door, 1.5L
ED7 = Civic3 Door, 1.6L
ED8 = CRX, 1.5L
ED9 = CRX, 1.6L
EE2 = Civic Wagon, 1.5L
EE4 = Civic Wagon, 1.6L
EG1 = Civic del Sol, 1.5L
EG2 = Civic del Sol VTEC 1.6L
EG8 = Civic 4 Door, 1.5L
EH2 = Civic 3 Door, 1.5L
EH3 = Civic 3 Door, 1.6L
EH6 = Civic del So, 1.6L
EH9 = Civic 4 Door, 1.6L
EJ1 = Civic2 Door, 1.6L
EJ2 = Civic2 Door, 1.5L
EJ6 = Civic 2/3/4 Door 1.6L
EJ7 = Civic 2 Door 1.6L
EJ8 = Civic 2/3 Door 1.6L
RA1 = Odyssey
RA3 = Odyssey 5 Door Wagon (199
RD1 = CR-V 5-door (4 Wheel drive)
RD2 = CR-V 5-door (2 Wheel drive)
7th POSITION BODY TYPE I TRANSMISSION
1 = 2 Door Coupe, Manual
2 = 2 Door Coupe, Automatic
3 = 3 Door Hatchback, Manual
4 = 3 Door Hatchback, Automatic
5 = 4 Door Sedan, Manual
6 = 4 Door Sedan, Automatic
7 = 5 Door Wagon, Manual
8 = 5 Door Wagon, Automatic
8th POSITION GRADE, 1990-1993
1 = 2.0S Prelude
2 = 2.0S Prelude
3 = 2.1S Prelude
4 = 2.1 Si Prelude w/4W5
4 = DX Accord
4 = (Std) Civic 3 Door
4 = CX Civic 3 Door (1992)
4 = DX Civic
4 = S Prelude (92-93)
4 = S Civic del Sol (1993)
5 = 2.1Si Prelude
5 = LX Accord
5 = CX Civic (1993)
5 = DX Civic3 Door
5 = EX Civic2 Door (1993)
5 = LX Civic4 Door
5 = (Std)CRX
5 = (Std) Civic Wagon (2WD)
6 = DX Civic 3 Door (1993)
6 = DC Accord
6 = EXCivic4 Door
6 = EXCivic2Door(1993)
6 = SiCivic3 Door
6 = Si Prelude wl4WS (92-93)
6 = Si Civic del Sol (1993)
6 = HFCRX
6 = Si QRX
6 = ATi Civic Wagon (4WD)
6 = VX Civic 3 Door (1992)
7 = EX Accord (92-93)
7 = VX Civic (1993)
7 = VTEC Prelude(1993)
8 = SE Accord
8 = Si Civic 3 Door (92-93)
9 = EX Civic 4 Door (92-93)
9 = 10th Anniversary Accord
8th POSITION GRADE, 1994-1998
0 = Accord SE 2/4 Door
0 = Civic LX
1 = Accord DX w/ABS 2/4-door
2 = Accord DX 2/4-door
2 = Civic CX 3-door
2 = Civic DX 2-door
2 = Civic EX 2-door
2 = Civic HX
2 = Civic CVT
2 = Accord Wagon LX
3 = Civic CX w/AC 3-door
3 = Civic DX w/AC 4-door
3 = Civic EX w/ABS 2-door
3 = Civic LX
3 = Accord LX 2/4-door
3 = Accord Wagon LX w/ABS
3 = Accord w/ABS V6
4 = Civic DX 4-door
4 = Civic EX 2/4 Door
4 = CR-V w/o ABS
4 = Accord DX 4-Door (199
4 = Accord LX w/ABS 2/4-door
4 = Civic Del Sol S
4 = Odyssey LX 6 Passenger
4 = Prelude S
4 = Prelude VTEC (1997)
4 = w/o SH pkg. Prelude (199
4 = CR-V LX (199
5 = Civic CX 3-door
5 = Accord EX 2/4-door
5 = Civic LX 4-door
5 = Civic DX w/AC
5 = Civic EX a/ABS 2-door
5 = CR-V w/ABS
5 = Prelude Si
5 = Prelude SH (1997)
6 = Civic DX 3-door
6 = Accord E w/leather 2/4-door
6 = Civic LX w/ABS 4-door
6 = Civic Del Sol Si
6 = Odyssey LX 7 Passenger
6 = Prelude 4WS Si
6 = CR-V EX (199
7 = Odyssey EX
7 = Accord EX
7 = Accord EX ULEV (199
7 = Civic LX w/AC
7 = Civic Del Sol Si/wABS
7 = Civic Del Sol VTEC
7 = Prelude VTEC
7 = Civic VX 3-door
8 = Civic Si 3-door
8 = Civic LX w/ABS
8 = Accord DX 25th Anniv.Edition
9 = Accord Wagon EX
9 = Accord Value Package 4 Door
9 = Civic Del Sol LX w/ABS
9 = Civic Del Sol Si w/ABS
9 = Civic Del Sol VTEC w/ABS
9 = Civic Si w/ABS 3-door
9 = Civic EX 4-door
9th POSITION CHECK DIGIT
10th POSITION MODEL YEAR
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
P = 1993
R = 1994
S = 1995
T = 1996
V = 1997
W = 1998
11th POSITION ASSEMBLY PLANT
A = Marysville, Ohio, USA
C = Sayama, Japan
H = Alliston, Canada
L = East Liberty, USA
S = Suzuka, Japan
T = Tochigi, Japan
12th Thru 17th POSITION PRODUCTION SEQUENCE NUMBER
This number starts at 000001 with the first car.
Please make a sticky
This chart shows VIN # Identification. Enjoy...
1983 - 1989
Example VIN: 2HGEH234XNH537228
1st POSITION NATION OF ORIGIN
1 = USA
2 = Canada
3 = Mexico
J = Japan
K = Korea
V = France
2nd POSITION MANUFACTURER
H = Honda
3rd POSITION VEHICLE TYPE
M = Passenger Car, Built in Japan
G = Passenger Car, Built in USA/Canada
4th & 5th POSITION, 1983 BODY TYPE
SR = Sedan
WR = Wagon
4th & 5th POSITION, 1984-86 BODY TYPE I ENGINE
AD = Accord
AE = Prelude Sedan
AE = Civic, l300cc CRX
AF = Civic, l500cc CRX
AG = Civic, 1300cc 3 door
AH = Civic, l500cc 3 door
AK = Civic, 1500cc 4 door
AN = Civic, Wagon
AR = Civic, Wagon 4X4
BA = Accord
6th POSITION, 1983-86 TRANSMISSION CODE
2 = Semi-Hondamatic
3 = 3 Speed Automatic
4 = 4 Speed Manual
5 = 5 Speed Manual
6 = 5 Speed Manual-Super Low Gear
7 = 4 Speed Automatic
4th Thru 6th POSITION, 1987-89
CAR LINE/ENGINE
BA3 = Prelude SI
BA4 = Prelude 2.0L
BA8 = Prelude
CA5 = Accord
CA6 = Accord coupe
ECI = Civic CRX
EC2 = Civic 1300
EC3 = Civic 1500
EC4 = Civic4 DoorSedan
EC5 = Civic Wagon
EC6 = Civic Wagon 4X4
ED3 = Civic Sedan 1.5L (198
ED6 = Civic Hatchback 1.5L (198
ED7 = Civic Hatchback 1.6L (198
ED8 = Civic CRX 1.5L (198
ED9 = Civic CRX 1.6L (198
EE2 = Civic Wagon 1.5L (198
EE4 = Civic Wagon 1.6L (198
EY1 = Civic Wagovan
EY3 = Civic Wagovan 1.5L
7th POSITION, 1983-86 BODY TYPE
2 = 2 Door
3 = 3 Door
4 = 4 Door
5 = 5 Door
7th POSITION, 1987-89 BODY TYPE AND TRANSMISSION
1 = 2 Door Sedan, Manual
2 = 2 Door Sedan, Automatic
3 = 2 Door Hatchback, Manual
4 = 2 Door Hatchback, Auto
5 = 4 Door Sedan, Manual
6 = 4 Door Sedan, Automatic
7 = 4 Door Wagon, Manual
8 = 4 Door Wagon, Automatic
8th POSiTION GRADE
1 = Basic, HF
2 = Standard, DX
3 = GL, GLS, LX
4 = Lxi, SI
5 = Special
6 = Accord Hatchback
7 = Accord Hatchback & LXI
8th POSiTION GRADE, 1988-1989
2 = DX Accord Manual seat belt
2 = S Prelude Automatic ("passive") seat belt
3 = LX Accord Manual seat belt
3 = Si Prelude Automatic ("passive") seat belt
4 = LXi Accord Manual seat belt
4 = (std) Civic Hatchback Manual seat belt
4 = DX Civic Sedan Manual seat belt
4 = (std) Civic Wagovan Manual seat belt
4 = Si Prelude w/optional 4WS Automatic ("passive") seat belt
5 = DX Civic Hatchback Manual seat belt
5 = LX Civic Sedan Manual seat belt
5 = (std) Civic CRX Manual seat belt
5 = (std) '89 Civic CRX Automatic ("passive") seat belt
5 = (std) Civic Wagon Manual seat belt
5 = SEi Accord Manual seat belt
6 = DX Accord Automatic ("passive") seat belt
6 = HF Civic CRX Manual seat belt
6 = Si Civic CRX Manual seat belt
6 = Si '89 Civic CRX Automatic ("passive") seat belt
6 = Si Civic Hatchback Manual seat belt
6 = RTi Civic Wagon 4WD Manual seat belt
8 = LXi Accord Automatic ("passive") seat belt
9th POSITION CHECK DIGIT
10th POSITION MODEL YEAR
D = 1983
S = 1984
F = 1985
G = 1986
H = 1987
J = 1988
K = 1989
11th POSITION ASSEMBLY PLANT
A = Marysville, Ohio, USA
C = Saitama, Japan
H = Alliston, Canada
L = S. Liberty, USA
S = Suzuka, Japan
T = Tochigi, Japan
12th Thru 17th POSITION PRODUCTION SEQUENCE NUMBER
This number starts at 000001 with the first car.
1990 - 1998
1st POSITION NATION OF ORIGIN
1 = USA
2 = Canada
3 = Mexico
J = Japan
K = Korea
V = France
2nd POSITION MANUFACTURER
H = Honda
3rd POSITION VEHICLE TYPE
M = Passenger Car, Built in Japan
G = Passenger Car, Built in USA/Canada
L = Multi purpose passenger vehicle
4th Thru 6th POSITION
CAR LINE I ENGINE
BA4 = Prelude, 2.0/2.1L
BA8 = Prelude, 2.2L
BB1 = Prelude VTEC, 2.2L
BB2 = Prelude, 2.3L
BB6 = Prelude 2-door
CB7 = Accord, 2.2L
CB9 = Accord Wagon, 2.2L
CD5 = Accord 4 Door 2.2L
CD7 = Accord 2 Door 2.2L
CE1 = Accord Wagon 2.2L
CE6 = Accord V6 4 Door 2.7L
CF8 = Accord 4 Door SOHC
CG1 = Accord 4 Door V6 VTEC
CG2 = Accord 2 Door V6 VTEC
CG3 = Accord 2 Door (VTEC or ULEV)
CG5 = Accord 4 Door VTEC
CG6 = Accord 4 Door ULEV
ED3 = Civic4 Door, 1.5L
ED4 = Civic 4 Door, 1.6L
ED6 = Civic 3 Door, 1.5L
ED7 = Civic3 Door, 1.6L
ED8 = CRX, 1.5L
ED9 = CRX, 1.6L
EE2 = Civic Wagon, 1.5L
EE4 = Civic Wagon, 1.6L
EG1 = Civic del Sol, 1.5L
EG2 = Civic del Sol VTEC 1.6L
EG8 = Civic 4 Door, 1.5L
EH2 = Civic 3 Door, 1.5L
EH3 = Civic 3 Door, 1.6L
EH6 = Civic del So, 1.6L
EH9 = Civic 4 Door, 1.6L
EJ1 = Civic2 Door, 1.6L
EJ2 = Civic2 Door, 1.5L
EJ6 = Civic 2/3/4 Door 1.6L
EJ7 = Civic 2 Door 1.6L
EJ8 = Civic 2/3 Door 1.6L
RA1 = Odyssey
RA3 = Odyssey 5 Door Wagon (199
RD1 = CR-V 5-door (4 Wheel drive)
RD2 = CR-V 5-door (2 Wheel drive)
7th POSITION BODY TYPE I TRANSMISSION
1 = 2 Door Coupe, Manual
2 = 2 Door Coupe, Automatic
3 = 3 Door Hatchback, Manual
4 = 3 Door Hatchback, Automatic
5 = 4 Door Sedan, Manual
6 = 4 Door Sedan, Automatic
7 = 5 Door Wagon, Manual
8 = 5 Door Wagon, Automatic
8th POSITION GRADE, 1990-1993
1 = 2.0S Prelude
2 = 2.0S Prelude
3 = 2.1S Prelude
4 = 2.1 Si Prelude w/4W5
4 = DX Accord
4 = (Std) Civic 3 Door
4 = CX Civic 3 Door (1992)
4 = DX Civic
4 = S Prelude (92-93)
4 = S Civic del Sol (1993)
5 = 2.1Si Prelude
5 = LX Accord
5 = CX Civic (1993)
5 = DX Civic3 Door
5 = EX Civic2 Door (1993)
5 = LX Civic4 Door
5 = (Std)CRX
5 = (Std) Civic Wagon (2WD)
6 = DX Civic 3 Door (1993)
6 = DC Accord
6 = EXCivic4 Door
6 = EXCivic2Door(1993)
6 = SiCivic3 Door
6 = Si Prelude wl4WS (92-93)
6 = Si Civic del Sol (1993)
6 = HFCRX
6 = Si QRX
6 = ATi Civic Wagon (4WD)
6 = VX Civic 3 Door (1992)
7 = EX Accord (92-93)
7 = VX Civic (1993)
7 = VTEC Prelude(1993)
8 = SE Accord
8 = Si Civic 3 Door (92-93)
9 = EX Civic 4 Door (92-93)
9 = 10th Anniversary Accord
8th POSITION GRADE, 1994-1998
0 = Accord SE 2/4 Door
0 = Civic LX
1 = Accord DX w/ABS 2/4-door
2 = Accord DX 2/4-door
2 = Civic CX 3-door
2 = Civic DX 2-door
2 = Civic EX 2-door
2 = Civic HX
2 = Civic CVT
2 = Accord Wagon LX
3 = Civic CX w/AC 3-door
3 = Civic DX w/AC 4-door
3 = Civic EX w/ABS 2-door
3 = Civic LX
3 = Accord LX 2/4-door
3 = Accord Wagon LX w/ABS
3 = Accord w/ABS V6
4 = Civic DX 4-door
4 = Civic EX 2/4 Door
4 = CR-V w/o ABS
4 = Accord DX 4-Door (199
4 = Accord LX w/ABS 2/4-door
4 = Civic Del Sol S
4 = Odyssey LX 6 Passenger
4 = Prelude S
4 = Prelude VTEC (1997)
4 = w/o SH pkg. Prelude (199
4 = CR-V LX (199
5 = Civic CX 3-door
5 = Accord EX 2/4-door
5 = Civic LX 4-door
5 = Civic DX w/AC
5 = Civic EX a/ABS 2-door
5 = CR-V w/ABS
5 = Prelude Si
5 = Prelude SH (1997)
6 = Civic DX 3-door
6 = Accord E w/leather 2/4-door
6 = Civic LX w/ABS 4-door
6 = Civic Del Sol Si
6 = Odyssey LX 7 Passenger
6 = Prelude 4WS Si
6 = CR-V EX (199
7 = Odyssey EX
7 = Accord EX
7 = Accord EX ULEV (199
7 = Civic LX w/AC
7 = Civic Del Sol Si/wABS
7 = Civic Del Sol VTEC
7 = Prelude VTEC
7 = Civic VX 3-door
8 = Civic Si 3-door
8 = Civic LX w/ABS
8 = Accord DX 25th Anniv.Edition
9 = Accord Wagon EX
9 = Accord Value Package 4 Door
9 = Civic Del Sol LX w/ABS
9 = Civic Del Sol Si w/ABS
9 = Civic Del Sol VTEC w/ABS
9 = Civic Si w/ABS 3-door
9 = Civic EX 4-door
9th POSITION CHECK DIGIT
10th POSITION MODEL YEAR
L = 1990
M = 1991
N = 1992
P = 1993
R = 1994
S = 1995
T = 1996
V = 1997
W = 1998
11th POSITION ASSEMBLY PLANT
A = Marysville, Ohio, USA
C = Sayama, Japan
H = Alliston, Canada
L = East Liberty, USA
S = Suzuka, Japan
T = Tochigi, Japan
12th Thru 17th POSITION PRODUCTION SEQUENCE NUMBER
This number starts at 000001 with the first car.
__________________
RIP Kevin Gonzales AKA Slo_Si 9/06
RIP Robert Kolp aka 00ek 4/07
RIP Pablo Garcia aka FatHead 9/07
_Jake D
RIP Kevin Gonzales AKA Slo_Si 9/06
RIP Robert Kolp aka 00ek 4/07
RIP Pablo Garcia aka FatHead 9/07
_Jake D
Rockin' 4 more Cylinders
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 11,897
Likes: 0
SOME USEFUL INFORMATION ON THE "K" SERIES SWAPS FOR ALL YOU "YOO HOOS" LIKE ME WHO PLAN ON SWITCHING TO THE "SPECIAL K"
K24a1-Honda CRV comes in with 9.6:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 160hp at 6000rpm and 162 at 3600 rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lob. This motor has no VTEC mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD.
K24a2- The Acura TSX comes in with 10.5:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 200hp at 6800rpm and 166lbs-ft at 4500rpm. This motor uses the conventional VTEC mechanism as the older B series motors but with the addition of VTC. This motor uses a drive by wire throttle and has EGR castings on the manifold. This motor comes with a 6 speed transmission and no LSD.
K24a4- the Honda Element and Accord come in with 9.7:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 160hp at 5500rpm and 161lbs-ft at 4500rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lob. This motor has no Vtec mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD.
What K do I want?
K20a-JDM ITR and CTR both come in with 11.5:1 compression and 2 liters of displacement. The Type R motor is rated at 220hp at 8,000rpm and 152lb-ft at 7,000 rpm. The CTR is rated at 200hp and 144lb-ft. Both of these motors have the same VTEC mechanism as the older B series motors but with the addition of VTC. It also has Larger cams, higher compression and larger intake manifold than the Type S motor. This motor comes with a 6 speed transmission and LSD. The 6-speed manual transmission uses multiple synchronizing cones for all gears, including a triple-cone synchronizer in 1st and 2nd gears and a double-cone synchronizer in 3rd through 6th gears.
K20a2-Acura Rsx Type S has 11.0:1 compression and 2 liters of displacement. The Type S is rated at 200hp at 7,400 and 142 lb-ft at 6,000 rpm. This motor also comes with a 6 speed transmission with no LSD. It has the same VTEC mechanism as the older B series motors but with the addition of VTC.
K20a3-Acura Rsx Base and Civic SI models come in with 9.8:1 compression and 2 liters of displacement. The Base motor is rated at 160hp at 6500rpm and 141lb-ft at 4000 rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lob. This motor has no VTEC mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD.
K24a1-Honda CRV comes in with 9.6:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 160hp at 6000rpm and 162 at 3600 rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lob. This motor has no VTEC mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD.
K24a2- The Acura TSX comes in with 10.5:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 200hp at 6800rpm and 166lbs-ft at 4500rpm. This motor uses the conventional VTEC mechanism as the older B series motors but with the addition of VTC. This motor uses a drive by wire throttle and has EGR castings on the manifold. This motor comes with a 6 speed transmission and no LSD.
K24a4- the Honda Element and Accord come in with 9.7:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 160hp at 5500rpm and 161lbs-ft at 4500rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lob. This motor has no Vtec mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD.
What is I-VTEC? VTC?
The "intelligentî I-VTEC system uses Variable Timing Control (VTC) to adjust "camshaft phasing." By varying oil pressure, VTC can continuously vary intake timing relative to the engine's exhaust timing. The result of I-VTEC is improved response and enhanced performance at low engine speeds and efficiency across a broad power band. This has been coined Hondas gift to tuners. From the factory VTC has not been optimized for pure performance. In the future look for the K series motors with the most power to be optimizing the VTC system.
What is the Immobilizer?
Honda has installed a new immobilizer (type 3) in there 02+ model cars. The immobilizer system has 4 parts: The Key, Immobilizer system indicator, immobilizer control unit, and ECM. All of these must be in place for the car to crank. The key is coded with a transponder id code. The immobilizer control unit is around the ignition switch. It uses an electromagnetic induction to power the transponder in the key. The key then sends its ID code to the control unit. Once received it is matched against the code in the receiversí memory. If the code matches, the immobilizer will send a coded signal to the ECM allowing the car to crank. If it does not match it will not send a code and the car will not crank.
K24a1-Honda CRV comes in with 9.6:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 160hp at 6000rpm and 162 at 3600 rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lob. This motor has no VTEC mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD.
K24a2- The Acura TSX comes in with 10.5:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 200hp at 6800rpm and 166lbs-ft at 4500rpm. This motor uses the conventional VTEC mechanism as the older B series motors but with the addition of VTC. This motor uses a drive by wire throttle and has EGR castings on the manifold. This motor comes with a 6 speed transmission and no LSD.
K24a4- the Honda Element and Accord come in with 9.7:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 160hp at 5500rpm and 161lbs-ft at 4500rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lob. This motor has no Vtec mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD.
What K do I want?
K20a-JDM ITR and CTR both come in with 11.5:1 compression and 2 liters of displacement. The Type R motor is rated at 220hp at 8,000rpm and 152lb-ft at 7,000 rpm. The CTR is rated at 200hp and 144lb-ft. Both of these motors have the same VTEC mechanism as the older B series motors but with the addition of VTC. It also has Larger cams, higher compression and larger intake manifold than the Type S motor. This motor comes with a 6 speed transmission and LSD. The 6-speed manual transmission uses multiple synchronizing cones for all gears, including a triple-cone synchronizer in 1st and 2nd gears and a double-cone synchronizer in 3rd through 6th gears.
K20a2-Acura Rsx Type S has 11.0:1 compression and 2 liters of displacement. The Type S is rated at 200hp at 7,400 and 142 lb-ft at 6,000 rpm. This motor also comes with a 6 speed transmission with no LSD. It has the same VTEC mechanism as the older B series motors but with the addition of VTC.
K20a3-Acura Rsx Base and Civic SI models come in with 9.8:1 compression and 2 liters of displacement. The Base motor is rated at 160hp at 6500rpm and 141lb-ft at 4000 rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lob. This motor has no VTEC mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD.
K24a1-Honda CRV comes in with 9.6:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 160hp at 6000rpm and 162 at 3600 rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lob. This motor has no VTEC mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD.
K24a2- The Acura TSX comes in with 10.5:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 200hp at 6800rpm and 166lbs-ft at 4500rpm. This motor uses the conventional VTEC mechanism as the older B series motors but with the addition of VTC. This motor uses a drive by wire throttle and has EGR castings on the manifold. This motor comes with a 6 speed transmission and no LSD.
K24a4- the Honda Element and Accord come in with 9.7:1 compression and 2.4 liters of displacement. The motor is rated at 160hp at 5500rpm and 161lbs-ft at 4500rpm. This motor does not use the conventional VTEC mechanism from the earlier B series motors but does have VTC. Instead it only has 2 cam lobes on the intake side and 1 on the exhaust lob. This motor has no Vtec mechanism on the exhaust cam and runs on 12 valves before 2200rpm. It also has smaller ports than the Type S and Type R. The motor also comes with a 5 speed transmission instead of the 6 speed and has no LSD.
What is I-VTEC? VTC?
The "intelligentî I-VTEC system uses Variable Timing Control (VTC) to adjust "camshaft phasing." By varying oil pressure, VTC can continuously vary intake timing relative to the engine's exhaust timing. The result of I-VTEC is improved response and enhanced performance at low engine speeds and efficiency across a broad power band. This has been coined Hondas gift to tuners. From the factory VTC has not been optimized for pure performance. In the future look for the K series motors with the most power to be optimizing the VTC system.
What is the Immobilizer?
Honda has installed a new immobilizer (type 3) in there 02+ model cars. The immobilizer system has 4 parts: The Key, Immobilizer system indicator, immobilizer control unit, and ECM. All of these must be in place for the car to crank. The key is coded with a transponder id code. The immobilizer control unit is around the ignition switch. It uses an electromagnetic induction to power the transponder in the key. The key then sends its ID code to the control unit. Once received it is matched against the code in the receiversí memory. If the code matches, the immobilizer will send a coded signal to the ECM allowing the car to crank. If it does not match it will not send a code and the car will not crank.
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RIP Kevin Gonzales AKA Slo_Si 9/06
RIP Robert Kolp aka 00ek 4/07
RIP Pablo Garcia aka FatHead 9/07
_Jake D
RIP Kevin Gonzales AKA Slo_Si 9/06
RIP Robert Kolp aka 00ek 4/07
RIP Pablo Garcia aka FatHead 9/07
_Jake D
