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cv axle install
Imma get this section off to a start. Since I own the same year series, and have 5 years of experience working on the cars, feel free to ask me anything on the 5th gen civics. This is for an axle install which I know will work for the 92-95 Civics (all trim levels). It is about as easy as it gets. First of course remove lugs and wheel(s). Next, the hub nut in the middle of the rotor may have a notch hammered into it to prevent it from backing out. Use anything small enough to wedge in there and hammer it back out to be kind of round. Next, you'll need a 32mm socket and either a strong impact gun or good breaker bar to remove the 32mm nut from the axle's end. Next, you'll need to remove the castle nut at the bottom of the whole arm assembly. You may need some pliers to remove the cotter pin from the castle nut, and then a 17mm socket to remove the nut. After that, either simply hammer the hell out of the arm the stud slide into (NOT the stud the castle nut was threaded to) or, get a ball joint separater (looks like a giant tuning fork) and wedge that into the joint, and hammer the hell out of it. Then, you should be able to swing the whole assembly around. You may need to just loosely thread the axle nut onto the end of the axle to hammer it out of the hub assembly. If you're not re-using this axle, then just hammer the axle itself. Some of the Civics, the axle went through the fork in the suspension, in that case, remove the nut and bolt (SHOULD BE 17mm), and then you can pry the other end of the axle out. Reverse that order for installation. I find it easier to slide the outter end of the axle into the hub first, and then hammer it into the tranny side second. Be careful with the axle though. Hammering directly on the axle could musrhoom the end of it, making for a good headache and burst of obscenities later. Just loosely thread the axle nut onto the axle and use it to hammer. Let me know if there's any quetions for this installation. |
57uck
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TECH: some gear ratio questions answered
Soruce: ttp://customimport.simplisticmedia.com Jerome Soh " Can you explain the advantages of your combination of Non-vtec engine with GSR tranny. I believe thats what you have and remember you discussing it, but cannot find any of my old mail about it. Is there a better combination that results in lower gearing ratios? The advantage doesn't exclusively lie in the combination of non-vtec engine with GSR tranny. The advantage solely lies in the nice gear ratios of the GSR tranny. In other words, you don't necesarily have to have the non-vtec motor to take advantage of the GSR ratios. They, along with the RS/LS (94+) and Type R tranny ratios are as follows: RS/LS GS-R Type R 3.230 3.230 3.230 1.900 1.900 2.105 1.269 1.360 1.468 0.966 1.034 1.117 0.714 0.787 0.850 FD 4.266 4.400 4.400 Let's compare the GSR and RS tranny. The first two gears are the same. However, 3rd and 4th gear are about 7% shorter, and 5th gear is 10% shorter ((0.787-0.714)/.714). Let us assume that the final drive is the same for now. In 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears, you will get noticeably improved acceleration. It's _almost_ like having 7% more torque in 3rd and 4th at any given time (it's not _quite_ like this, and I'll get to that in a moment) and 10% more torque in 5th. This comes at the sacrifice of top speed in any given gear. Now, with a 7000 rpm redline, my top speed is about 220 km/h rev limited (it's still got lots to go... it literally 'slams' into the limiter) with the GSR tranny. Personally, I don't need to be up that high on the race track. On my home track, I hit about 170 km/h down the main straight. On this particular track, I'd ideally like to increase FD to get even better acceleration at the expense of top speed, which brings us to the next topic: FD. FD is exactly what it says... the final reduction through the tranny before the driveshafts. It affects all gears. The total reductions for the gears would be the gear ratio multiplied times FD. Thus, if your engine is at 5000 rpm, and you are in 4th gear using a GSR tranny (total reduction of 4.4*1.034=4.55), the driveshafts would be turning at 1100 rpm (the calculated speed using 577 mm as the nominal tire diameter would be 120 km/h, which pretty much corresponds to my speedo). FD increases the overall ratio for all gears without affecting gear _spacing_. Gear spacing determines how much engine speed drops between shifts. For 2-3,3-4, and 4-5, gear spacing is very good on the GSR tranny. However, from 1-2 the gap is a factor of 0.59. Thus, if you shift at 7000 rpm, you'll end up at about 4100 rpm (I always seem to end up much higher than this when I powershift ). I suspect the reason Honda did this is to give good starting power in 1st gear in a car that doesn't have much low end torque. Anyways, looking at the Type R ratios, one can see that the gap between 1-2 is 1.54, which is much better. The gaps between the other gears remain the same as on the GSR. Honda has basically just moved gears 2-5 'closer' to 1st gear. If we ignore 1st gear, a Type R tranny is essentially a GSR tranny with a 4.7-4.8 FD. Now back to the issue of why improving a gear by 7% isn't quite the same as getting 7% more torque. When you do this, the top speed in that particular gear will be reduced and thus you'll have to shift sooner. Thus, you'll be spending the 'extra' time that you would have been in the lower gear with the poorer ratios in a higher gear with the better ratios. Even though the better higher gear has better ratios, it still won't be as good as the poorer lower gear. But overall, the effect is improved acceleration and lap times. There is a limit though. Shifting takes time and thus you don't want to have a zillion gears spaced 0.99 apart with an engine with a big SPIKE for it's powerband . That is why Formula 1 and Indy cars are generally limited to 6-7 gears. Ramanan has gone the other way by using a non-vtec tranny and GSR motor in hopes of being able to stay in 3rd for his 1/4 mile run. With his particular setup, that may just be the way to go for a 1/4 mile run. However, with my 7000 rpm redline, the shorter gearing I can get the better. I have to make 4 shifts during my 1/4 mile runs (I get into 5th), but all are pretty quick and I'm definitely getting better times due to the gearing." Kaz Mori "Jerome mentioned the ideal of having infinite gears. On a related note, Nissan has mated a 200hp engine to a CVT, and Honda claims it can build a CVT that can take up to 300hp... As you know, until now, the only "real" CVT was the one that's in the HX, but only takes 117hp or so. Hmmm... The CVT is actually quite efficient, and it infinitely geared -- if it's strong enough, we may see it in place of the sequential shifters..." [Ed : okay this is initially Ramanan's thoughts, but read his followup a bit later, and he's had a change of thoughts.] Ramanan Thiagarajah "Reading Jerome's article on the differences between running the LS tranny and the GS-R tranny, irrespective on which motor combination, I have some input on the application-side of it. Leaving the number-crunching and theoretical side out of it... (once an understanding of the numbers have been established, testing follows) here goes on what happened from a GS-R to LS tranny switch on the B18C motor. The first outcome is lower figures on the dyno... this is in the 9 - 12% range. The thing is that most dyno-testing is done in 3rd gear and just a 7% reduction (as Jerome's figures indicate) is accurate, but it ends up being more because it just takes longer for the motor to wind out... every increment in RPM's is affected... the gearing itself produces lower torque values and at the same time the motor's capacity to rev-up decreases also. On the track... 60-foot etc. DOES NOT CHANGE... this follows from the fact that 1st and 2nd gears are the same. On the switch to 3rd, however, there is a noticeable RPM drop and it just takes that much longer for 3rd to wind out.From around 6500 to 9000 RPM's it seems that the car MOVES more... even though it revs out noticeably slower. E.T's are affected slightly (around 15/100 to 20/100 seconds slower) and MPH seems unaffected (this is difficult to determine as I was bracket-racing and couldn't really guage this accurateley) On another point. A friend had the B18C with the GS-R tranny and made an almost IDENTICAL power-band on the dyno as I did with the B18C and the LS tranny. Peak horsepower was identical as well as the curve from 6000 to 9000 rpms (this being appropriate for drag-racing). On the track.. after at least 10 - 12 runs... (driver-error can be discounted)... E.T's were consistently 0.4 - 0.6 seconds apart with the B18C/LS outdoing the B18C/GS-R. The part I am not clear in is if the power-band and tranny combo is more important than just the tranny itself. I mean if a motor made peak horsepower but a very poor band and we had a tranny (very short gears) that made use of this very narrow band of horsepower, then it would be good..." --- discovery! --- "Never mind the hype on the numbers and the ratios of these trannys, but god---m.... this thing is crazy. It is a TREMENDOUS difference (seat-of-the- pants type) after the switch from LS to Y2 <=== my correction. First gear pulls much harder, but the crazy part is the switch to 2nd... oh my! The rpm's drop literally about 50% of what they used to.. at a 8500 shift it drops to ~7100 and spins literally (no exaggeration) the WHOLE of 2nd gear... and these arn't stock VX tires... DUNLOP SP2000 205/50/15's. Shift to 3rd and it lights up... the drop is the same.. to 7100. You don't notice how quicker it revvs up until you hit 3rd... it is a HUGE difference. 3rd obviously takes a little longer to wind-out and hit 4th... tires spin a bit and in my estimate the 1/4 ends just before the end of 4th. With 20" slicks I estimate the 1320 ending at around 8700 in 4th gear. To whoever reads this... guys/girls... if you can somehow get this or the Type-R tranny.... or at least the gears and switch them to your LS or GS-R's... PLEASE DO SO.... the difference is incredible. I have NEVER felt such a big difference out of anything that I have done to the motor... I don't know how this will translate to E.T's but it WORKS.... I am just so ecstatic." |
Honda Short Shifter Install
Short Shifter Install – By integra_nemesis
Tools you’ll need: Basic Hand Tools Jack and/or jack stands (hydraulic is preferred, but manual will do.) 12mm and 10mm sockets 12mm spanner Vise grips or pliers An extra pair of hands White Lithium Grease Phillips and standard screwdriver 10mm offset spanner (optional) For: Integras & Civics (not sure for other honda cars, but it can't differ too much.) First, you want to remove the center console. 4 screws in the back section hold it. If you pop up that tab in the middle of the console, there are two screws there, and finally the two screws down in the front. There are two more, behind the section where the ashtray is. (Only on G3 Integra’s/Civics are much easier) Now that you have the console out, go ahead and jack up the car. I chose the passenger side, you can do it from what ever side you like. Be sure to chock the back wheels and be sure your e-brake is on good and tight. You also have the option of unbolting or taking the cat off its hanger’s, I did neither; probably would’ve made reassembly easier though. Once you have the car jacked up, grab your 12mm socket and spanner. Take out the bolt at the bottom of the shift lever. Use the spanner to hold one side still, while you ratchet the other side. Now, grab your 10mm socket and go to work on the two mounting bolts. First, pull back the rubber weather seal. This is the tricky part, and a horrible design by Honda on the bolts. Have someone with pliers or vise grips hold the flat tops of the bolts while you undo the nut from underneath. Have patience though; the pliers will slip, many, many times! With the two mounting bolts out, slide your shifter out the bottom of the car. Slide the metal bracket off the bottom of the shifter, and slide the rubber bushing toward the top; you can use some white lithium grease to aid in this. If your shifter didn’t come with it’s own sealed bearings, you’ll need to reuse the stock bearing. It just slides out of the stock shifter. Honda recommends replacing the o-rings on the stock bearing itself. So keep that in mind before putting this thing in. Also, if your shifter did not come with the 12mm self-locking nut for the bottom of the shift lever, get one of these from Honda as well. Now, with your new shifter, lube up the ball joint with the lithium grease, don’t be afraid to get dirty. Slide the rubber bushing onto the new shifter the way it came off the stock shifter. When it’s on, put more grease down in the bushing. Also, lube the bearings while you’re at it. Before putting the shifter in, put the mount back on the new shifter as not to forget it. From under the car put the new shifter in. Use the new bolt and self-locking nut to attach the bottom of the new shifter to the linkage. Be sure to tighten it now, don’t wait and go back to it. Now comes for the most challenging part. Reassembling the mount. I found it easier to do the front bolt if I put the car in 1st gear. Again, someone will have to be up top with pliers or vise grips. The back bolt is the most difficult. I found I had the most room if I put the car in reverse; and to get it started by hand. What also may help is an offset spanner, but it’s not required. Now that you have the mount on, you can reset the weather seal up top. Put the console back together; let down the car and drive. ;) *** Please note: This is just a general guide, every shifter and car will be a little different; this is just to provide a little help. You should contact the manufacturer of your shifter for more explicit instructions or help. *** |
Your charts a little off there. It has the right engine codes but on Acura is says GS for the GS and GSR and such....
Just an observation. Thanks. |
http://www.hasport.com/Tech/Hasport%20Tech.htm
Some good info i found from Hasport... technical instructions, along with other technical swap outlines, wiring charts, and ECU information. |
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a good resource for doing auto to manual swaps on F22, F23, H22, H23 engines.
http://www.extremeredline.net/accord/automanual.html |
FAQ Honda How To , Build up guides
Mods please sticky !!
How to step by step FI buildup B20VTEC LSVTEC and other guides with pictures. http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto.php |
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