Datsun Dreaming
You dont need to tighten those things up like crazy, just enough to apply even pressure around the hose so it wont leak. I've never had any issues with Stainless worm clamps on smaller hoses.
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Team White Car 2010
Team White Car 2010
last night i installed my clutch fan and shroud. i think i might have picked up a s14 shroud because it was a pain in the dick to get on i had to pull the radiator, and it now sits bolted to the radiator a hair or 2 away from the fan itself. my friends s13 fan shroud is a 2 piece nice and easy, mine 1 piece
Washed my car tonight!
I need some new side door glass. Those "streaks" I have are actually scratches. Doh.
About the hose clamps...
Like Tim said, the "wire band with bolt" type are the best. You can get a lot more tension on those compared to regular worm-drive hose clamps. Use these on everything that sees pressure, between about 0.75" to 1.75" outside diameter, especially the coolant lines under the intake manifold. They can see up to 20psi and you definitely don't want to have to redo those! Everytime I go to the junkyard, I swipe a half dozen of these.
For smaller hoses that are under 3/4" and see 20psi or less, the spring clamp type (the kind you undo with pliers) are good here. This includes the small coolant lines running to your IACV and throttle body. You can also use them on air lines / boost ports / wastegate signals, etc. In addition, you can use them on bigger diameter hoses that don't see much or any pressure, like the valve cover ports.
For smaller hoses that see more than 20psi, use the solid band type clamp that has a screw/bolt tightening mechanism. This is NOT a worm drive. Specifically, I'm calling out fuel lines, as they can see 65+psi easily on a boosted car.
This leaves large diameter pipes. For pressurized connections, I like worm-drive clamps made by ABA. The bands are thick stainless (304 or 316), the gear slots are pressed instead of cut through, and they're incredibly beefy. They're a lot cheaper than t-bolts, and a lot stronger than normal (Ideal, Breeze, etc) worm drive clamps. I'm talking about intercooler pipes, here.
For unpressurized connections of this size, normal, cheapy, Home Depot Racing worm drives will do here. Specifically, I've got BOV recirc and intake/inlet piping in mind.
I need some new side door glass. Those "streaks" I have are actually scratches. Doh.
About the hose clamps...
Like Tim said, the "wire band with bolt" type are the best. You can get a lot more tension on those compared to regular worm-drive hose clamps. Use these on everything that sees pressure, between about 0.75" to 1.75" outside diameter, especially the coolant lines under the intake manifold. They can see up to 20psi and you definitely don't want to have to redo those! Everytime I go to the junkyard, I swipe a half dozen of these.
For smaller hoses that are under 3/4" and see 20psi or less, the spring clamp type (the kind you undo with pliers) are good here. This includes the small coolant lines running to your IACV and throttle body. You can also use them on air lines / boost ports / wastegate signals, etc. In addition, you can use them on bigger diameter hoses that don't see much or any pressure, like the valve cover ports.
For smaller hoses that see more than 20psi, use the solid band type clamp that has a screw/bolt tightening mechanism. This is NOT a worm drive. Specifically, I'm calling out fuel lines, as they can see 65+psi easily on a boosted car.
This leaves large diameter pipes. For pressurized connections, I like worm-drive clamps made by ABA. The bands are thick stainless (304 or 316), the gear slots are pressed instead of cut through, and they're incredibly beefy. They're a lot cheaper than t-bolts, and a lot stronger than normal (Ideal, Breeze, etc) worm drive clamps. I'm talking about intercooler pipes, here.
For unpressurized connections of this size, normal, cheapy, Home Depot Racing worm drives will do here. Specifically, I've got BOV recirc and intake/inlet piping in mind.
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