yes that is my rotor position at #1 cylinders tdc. what i did is

- pulled the spark plug
-put the plug wire in loosely
-cranked car over till the plug wire jumped out.
- that means its at tdc.

you can see in the picture how the plug wire is up in the air.

so basically the rotor is pointing at #4cyl's wire in the picture even though #1 cylinder is at tdc.

that means its 180'ed

so i..

swapped the first and 4th plug wires and the 2nd and 3rd


so it would be correct. in the correct firing order(1342 normally) in accordance to the rotor position to when in tdc on the first cylinder. ( just imagine crossing the wires directly across from each other on the cap.) ( 4 goes where 1 is and 2 goes where 3 is and yea)

tried cranking it like that and nothing.

so i set all the wires back to where they should be.

TODAY:

- i installed a mint condition doch maf(seriously looks brand new and works well)

- cranked the car, nothing... cranked it with ether... jumped up into a start of stumbles like usual and then boggy death.


also installed..

- a good condition 29 ecu. not the 28 i have but still a good working dohc ecu and......... nothing. same ether startup again and same results...



so now that those last two are ruled out my guess is.....

- POSSIBILITY OF JUMPED TEETH? (i have no idea how? it ran (on 3 cyl) before the injector swap

- the actual dizz itself is fucked? has new rotor ,cap,wires etc.



im out of time and patience to work on this...

im looking for a shop.

7276238590 call me if you want to make money and fix this.

if not im hitting a local shop. i need it done asap.

 

i removed the #1 plug
cranked the car over till it poppped
took out dist.
aligned the rotor to match up with the 1st cyl wire on cap
re inserted.

car back fired through the intake, now i know its off.

so i set it back to where it was before.

 

like i said its off a tooth... mine was off 2 teeth and backfired through the intake. and then sometimes it went through the exhaust.

 

If it wasnt for the fact that you have already done a compression test I would swear that this sounds an aweful lot a bent valve(s). All the ish you've thrown @ it should have affected this in a positive way. I've experience this...not fun.

Keep fighting it man. Its crappy knowing there isnt anything I can do to help other than give support for a fellow KA owner.

 

in the picture, how it was set, it never backfired until after i 180'ed the rotor to correct that. i think the picture i took was the exhaust stroke and not the comp stroke. so i set it back to the picture after trying to 180 it and having the back fire, thats when i knew it was correct.

im going to test my cas.

i still think its the injectors not firing.

why would it run with ether but never alone on gas?

atleast it started and ran on 3cyl before the injector swap.


im also taking off the valve cover today to verify that my cams are pointing away on my compression stroke and that everything is at tdc.

fuck this is annoying to do at 6shared_pm.

 

see thats the thing,

it sounds alot better upon ether starts, but still no runs mannnnnn

 

i can come look at it but.....i gotta see what my schd looks like

 

that would be awesome joe, here is a huge development.

did a compression test today:

175 on all 4 cylinders, even the one that was not firing.

plugs looked clean, like they had only been running on the ether.

it hit me.

i pulled the rail off again with everything still hooked up, turned the car over and physically viewed the injectors to see if they were squirting anddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd................... ... THEY WEREN'T.

SO...

im almost dead sure its my cas.

i tried multimetering the plug on the cas while hand turning the bottom of the dizzy with the cap of and the key turned on like the NICO tutorial on testing your cas.

it really wasn't doing much, in could hear my cap firing lol as i rotate.

either that or ecu?

my question is...

is the fuel pump relay tied into the injectors firing?
is the fuel pump fuse tied into them?
i have a new fpr,checked the vacum line for the fpr and its good, even used a mityvac on the fpr (which is a hand cranked vacum gauge).


soo.

my compression is great, im getting spark,
injectors arent doing shit.


fuel related things that have been replaced are.

fuel pump
fuel pump relay ( the old one was buzzing before the injector swap)
fuel pump fuse
fuel filter
fuel hose from filter to rail
fuel pressure regulator
new #2 cyl injector.


only other thing i could see maybe being wrong is that broken plug...the prongs are seated firm on one another.

here is a picture of the test on the cyl that was not firing from the start. ( i have all 4 pictures if requested) all are 175

 

oh and another thing, i noticed at the base of my hose and the top of the fuel filter is some fuel being leaked out from the excess pressure from the not flowing injectors... or just maybe i need to tighten the clamp even more... lol.

 

was informed that that fuel lined used is shit when exposed to heat, replacing asap.