i posted a thread in the fs, to borrow one or even buy.

 

swap ecu's and have a BFH on stand by

 

BFH <3.

another pointless thing done this morning, the fuel feed hose from the filter to the fuel Line/rail , was swollen still. i replaced it with clear braided fuel hose. definitely have fuel going in and still no pressure on the return hose.

saturday:
-remove fuel rail
-check for leaky injector
- check to see is rail is blocked up
- possible fpr replacement?
- SWAP ECU? (IF I CAN FIND ONE)

oh and some cool as dude on here with the purple kouki (iforgotyourusername)
is bringing me an injector clip/plug to replace the broken one just for peace of mind.

worst case scenario:
- i do all of this and nothing changed, then i will be seeking a shop to get this running ( if anyone is interested let me know) 7276238590 - Reece

 

mmk.

It's my BIRTHDAY today,

i took off the fuel rail this morning, turned key to aux.
- no injector leaks (YAY!! )

I INSTALLED A NEW fuel pressure regulator.
- ( FIXED MY FUCKING RETURN LINE PRESSURE PROBLEM, FUEL FLYS OUT THAT BITCH)


so, all together my fuel issue is solved(i hope)
-new injector
-new filter
-new pump
-new relay
-new fuse
-new fpr
-new hoses
-new o-rings
-cleaned the rubber insulators too.



this morning i also decided to replace my 02 sensor on the header.
- it was black and looked broken on the piece around the center inner part. (pics upon request)

- its brand new and nice.


- car still wont start.
-turns over for days, my dad is convinced that because i replaced the plugs,plug wires,dist. cap, and rotor. that maybe doing all that threw my car off time.

if so.....

how would i time it or check?

i had not even touched dizzzy other than the replacing the rotor the exact way i took it off, and the cap and plug wires the exact way.

i tested for spark and they are all getting it.

my car was running fine before all of this.. so im assuming it was in time...

i know timing it while not running consists of
- taking #1 spark plug out and putting wire back in
-cranking car till wire jumps
- then i know the #1 cyl is at tdc.

from that point idk?

it's my bday, i really don't want to do any of this.

i'll pay someone.

either that or it's shop time. im done fucking with this thing.
\

7276238590 let me know if you want to get it running.

 

ok after fucking with it some more,

we got it to start over again with starting fluid and it dies, bogging out.

my dad put his hand over my intake tube to create more resistance when it started up and the car would start to hold an idle for about 6-8 seconds longer than before.

motor sounds good.

he said its sucking in wayyy too much air.


my question is...

bad maf?

or because i replaced the shitty bad 02 sensor this morning , is the car still telling itself to suck even more air due to the old o2 being so carbon clogged?

would basically un-plugging the ecu help "re-flash" the air/fuel map type settings or whatever?

or is the maf just bad and im making it to complicated again?




on another note.
here is a pic of my motor. spark plug taken out, cranked till wire shot out (tdc) and the position of the rotor. it seems to be 180 and pointing to #4 compared to the cap position of the number 1 wire? correct?

 

 

thats the plug wire after is popped up and the rotor position.

 

is that at tDC??
if so i think it could be timing i had a similiar situation.. dizzy teeth were like 2 teeth off.
that rotor should be top left.

correct me if im wrong?

 

If that rotor position is your tdc you have big problems...

 

If its sucking in too much air then it could be a vac leak...which i have experience on 4 separate occasions lol. On the DE i owned it was on the fat brake booster vac line...it cracked on the bend behind the valve cover and was almost impossible to see.