Really odd dyno numbers..Discussion...
After looking at more #'s from typical b16's, I guess I really am on par with the majority. So thanks to a few who slapped me with a bit of reality. Just a lot different than my b18c numbers that I was familiar with.
I will get comp. numbers up regardless and switch out a few parts as stated. Thanks again guys.
I will get comp. numbers up regardless and switch out a few parts as stated. Thanks again guys.
Originally Posted by omniman
stock motors only make 135-140 fyi so a 10% wheel hp increase for a beginner DIY BUILD ISNT BAD, DONT BEAT YOURSELF UP.
most of the parts you listed dont change hp in anyway, like the fuel rail and head studs and "race" bearings lol. you might want to play with your cam gears but most tuners are scared to death to move cam gears these days. those cams will make 15 whp adjusted correctly over oem b16 cams even on a completely stock motor. the cams dont like a tight valve lash try running a cold .008 intake and a cold .009 exhaust (inch measurements). those cams are not too big so you can move the timing gears quite a bit with out worrying about hitting things. the intake is junk for making hp but hey its carbon fiber. an aem CA or comptec ice box will do way better. also if you have an oem catalyst that has 80k+ miles on it there is a chance that its melted internally and is causing a large restriction. your exhaust is fine enough for what you have. also the dyno type can vary hp a bit, but at the lower hp levels like your at it shouldnt be much.
Thanks man. The valves were loose when we did the lash, so my buddy set them to factory spec (7/
. Its funny you say the intake is junk because I replaced an AEM CAI with the passwordjdm. LOL ..But it IS carbon fiber!
Should I look into a velocity stack or the Comptech box? There is no cat, so it running straight from 2.5 to 2.36.
Thanks for the advice. I'll keep you guys updated as I plan to make many changes to the motor with the info posted. Also, do I need a larger TB? I thought 60mm is fine for mild applications.
stock motors only make 135-140 fyi so a 10% wheel hp increase for a beginner DIY BUILD ISNT BAD, DONT BEAT YOURSELF UP.
most of the parts you listed dont change hp in anyway, like the fuel rail and head studs and "race" bearings lol. you might want to play with your cam gears but most tuners are scared to death to move cam gears these days. those cams will make 15 whp adjusted correctly over oem b16 cams even on a completely stock motor. the cams dont like a tight valve lash try running a cold .008 intake and a cold .009 exhaust (inch measurements). those cams are not too big so you can move the timing gears quite a bit with out worrying about hitting things. the intake is junk for making hp but hey its carbon fiber. an aem CA or comptec ice box will do way better. also if you have an oem catalyst that has 80k+ miles on it there is a chance that its melted internally and is causing a large restriction. your exhaust is fine enough for what you have. also the dyno type can vary hp a bit, but at the lower hp levels like your at it shouldnt be much.
Thanks man. The valves were loose when we did the lash, so my buddy set them to factory spec (7/
Should I look into a velocity stack or the Comptech box? There is no cat, so it running straight from 2.5 to 2.36.Thanks for the advice. I'll keep you guys updated as I plan to make many changes to the motor with the info posted. Also, do I need a larger TB? I thought 60mm is fine for mild applications.
He needs to get rid of the bottom end. Terry made 191 all motor with his LS/Vtec setup utilizing a GSR head with a few bolt ons.
John advanced the cam timing. Is that what you mean? He played around with that until he felt they were right. A/F was obviously adjusted, but there wasn't really too much else he really could do. It was tuned from an s200 module and then transferred to my s100. Then again, I only know what he told me. He spent a good while making sure everything was set right, so I have confidence it wasn't the tune.
that intake IS NOT JUNK! it obviously flows mroe air than just a normal cai or sri. it leaned me out .5 on my wideband when i replaced my sri with it. the low tq numbers are bc the primary lobes are too big for his comp and displacement. the low hp numbers could be bc of a lot of things. but if all was tuned right and what he says is true, im guessing he would benifit from more comp. hell he could switch to some itr or ctr cams and make more power!
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that intake IS NOT JUNK! it obviously flows mroe air than just a normal cai or sri. it leaned me out .5 on my wideband when i replaced my sri with it. the low tq numbers are bc the primary lobes are too big for his comp and displacement. the low hp numbers could be bc of a lot of things. but if all was tuned right and what he says is true, im guessing he would benifit from more comp. hell he could switch to some itr or ctr cams and make more power!
Those honda-tech dummies.
Yeah he should try out some CTR cams..
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wow are you talking about a civic or integra? I helped a buddy with his ITR and with only Skunk2 Pro 1's and springs and retainers it made 190 to the wheels.
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This shit is weak as fuckk. I would def put the car through Vegas shop then would of set it on fire after those numbers. wow
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