Really odd dyno numbers..Discussion...
That better be one big turbo blowing by valves lifted with the Pro 2 cams. Kind of like trying to blow up a beach ball with 3-inch hole in it.
Anyway, on to our b16 mystery
1. Light flywheel in a b16 good for revs but not torque
2. Engine was rebuilt with stock bore, so things could be a little sloppy in the cylinders.
3. The BC 3 cams don't wake up with less than 11:1 compression. While you picked up a little compression with the gsr head, you gave it all away and more with the higher lift/duration cams. Plus you might be losing some around the sloppy bore.
On the plus side, you made power to 8700+ rpms, which is very good indeed considering you would have peaked around 8000 at most with a stock setup. Your engine, if allowed to keep going, might have made power at 9000. Your torque is up quick (ligh flywheel) and flat all the way, tapering off at the usual 6500 rpm area, but slowly. Also good, even though the max torque is on the low side.
A stock b16 would be about 140 hp at around 7800-8000, with torque topping at about 105 lbs at 6500, so you engine is not weak by any means - and its a screamer on top.
Check your compression to ensure you have a good seal, but keep in mind you can't measure dynamic compression with a compression gauge. The BC IIIs are off the seats longer on the intake. Since your power so high in the band, I'm guessing you have the intake cam advanced and exhaust retarded for a lot of overlap.
Another thing is, while the BC IIIs really have a smooth vtec transition, your curve is so smooth, I have to ask: are you sure you hit vtec on this run? If you didn't, it would explain about 8 missing HP and about half as much missing torque.
Anyway, on to our b16 mystery
1. Light flywheel in a b16 good for revs but not torque
2. Engine was rebuilt with stock bore, so things could be a little sloppy in the cylinders.
3. The BC 3 cams don't wake up with less than 11:1 compression. While you picked up a little compression with the gsr head, you gave it all away and more with the higher lift/duration cams. Plus you might be losing some around the sloppy bore.
On the plus side, you made power to 8700+ rpms, which is very good indeed considering you would have peaked around 8000 at most with a stock setup. Your engine, if allowed to keep going, might have made power at 9000. Your torque is up quick (ligh flywheel) and flat all the way, tapering off at the usual 6500 rpm area, but slowly. Also good, even though the max torque is on the low side.
A stock b16 would be about 140 hp at around 7800-8000, with torque topping at about 105 lbs at 6500, so you engine is not weak by any means - and its a screamer on top.
Check your compression to ensure you have a good seal, but keep in mind you can't measure dynamic compression with a compression gauge. The BC IIIs are off the seats longer on the intake. Since your power so high in the band, I'm guessing you have the intake cam advanced and exhaust retarded for a lot of overlap.
Another thing is, while the BC IIIs really have a smooth vtec transition, your curve is so smooth, I have to ask: are you sure you hit vtec on this run? If you didn't, it would explain about 8 missing HP and about half as much missing torque.
That better be one big turbo blowing by valves lifted with the Pro 2 cams. Kind of like trying to blow up a beach ball with 3-inch hole in it.
Anyway, on to our b16 mystery
1. Light flywheel in a b16 good for revs but not torque
2. Engine was rebuilt with stock bore, so things could be a little sloppy in the cylinders.
3. The BC 3 cams don't wake up with less than 11:1 compression. While you picked up a little compression with the gsr head, you gave it all away and more with the higher lift/duration cams. Plus you might be losing some around the sloppy bore.
On the plus side, you made power to 8700+ rpms, which is very good indeed considering you would have peaked around 8000 at most with a stock setup. Your engine, if allowed to keep going, might have made power at 9000. Your torque is up quick (ligh flywheel) and flat all the way, tapering off at the usual 6500 rpm area, but slowly. Also good, even though the max torque is on the low side.
A stock b16 would be about 140 hp at around 7800-8000, with torque topping at about 105 lbs at 6500, so you engine is not weak by any means - and its a screamer on top.
Check your compression to ensure you have a good seal, but keep in mind you can't measure dynamic compression with a compression gauge. The BC IIIs are off the seats longer on the intake. Since your power so high in the band, I'm guessing you have the intake cam advanced and exhaust retarded for a lot of overlap.
Another thing is, while the BC IIIs really have a smooth vtec transition, your curve is so smooth, I have to ask: are you sure you hit vtec on this run? If you didn't, it would explain about 8 missing HP and about half as much missing torque.
Anyway, on to our b16 mystery
1. Light flywheel in a b16 good for revs but not torque
2. Engine was rebuilt with stock bore, so things could be a little sloppy in the cylinders.
3. The BC 3 cams don't wake up with less than 11:1 compression. While you picked up a little compression with the gsr head, you gave it all away and more with the higher lift/duration cams. Plus you might be losing some around the sloppy bore.
On the plus side, you made power to 8700+ rpms, which is very good indeed considering you would have peaked around 8000 at most with a stock setup. Your engine, if allowed to keep going, might have made power at 9000. Your torque is up quick (ligh flywheel) and flat all the way, tapering off at the usual 6500 rpm area, but slowly. Also good, even though the max torque is on the low side.
A stock b16 would be about 140 hp at around 7800-8000, with torque topping at about 105 lbs at 6500, so you engine is not weak by any means - and its a screamer on top.
Check your compression to ensure you have a good seal, but keep in mind you can't measure dynamic compression with a compression gauge. The BC IIIs are off the seats longer on the intake. Since your power so high in the band, I'm guessing you have the intake cam advanced and exhaust retarded for a lot of overlap.
Another thing is, while the BC IIIs really have a smooth vtec transition, your curve is so smooth, I have to ask: are you sure you hit vtec on this run? If you didn't, it would explain about 8 missing HP and about half as much missing torque.
haha nick said what i did, just more in detail. good point on the stock bore and flyhweel. im almost willing to bet lots of money he is still bleeding off too much compression.
and as for running pro2's and boost...why the hell would u waste time when gsr cams are proven to 500+ hp and itr cams to over 600? doesnt make sense to run such a large cam with boost. those cams n/a have seen over 260 at the wheels on pump gas from kingmotorsports build. they are definately a hard cam to run on the street, as are the old school stg 2 cams. a friend of mine had them, and tuning the idle alone on them wasnt easy since theyre pretty large on the primary lobe. the pro 2s are even larger!
and as for running pro2's and boost...why the hell would u waste time when gsr cams are proven to 500+ hp and itr cams to over 600? doesnt make sense to run such a large cam with boost. those cams n/a have seen over 260 at the wheels on pump gas from kingmotorsports build. they are definately a hard cam to run on the street, as are the old school stg 2 cams. a friend of mine had them, and tuning the idle alone on them wasnt easy since theyre pretty large on the primary lobe. the pro 2s are even larger!
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RIP PABLO AKA FATHEAD.....YOU WILL BE MISSED!

RIP PABLO AKA FATHEAD.....YOU WILL BE MISSED!
Last edited by sleepinsol; May 11, 2009 at 10:04 PM.
i had a homeboy in orlando tryed the same setup in a DA he had.difference was he had a b16typer block thou.they all do it.he fixed the problem by milling the head and getting flathead pistons.the car busted out 211hp
Original thread was made on Honda-tech http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2562233
The motor obviously wasn't assembled properly which has nothing to do with tuning.
This is a classic example of the fact that tuner's are not mirracle workers. If you bring in a motor with mechanical problems, you will leave disappointed.
UPDATE
Well the DIY leakdown test confirmed my worst fears:
Dry compression from #1 yielded 200. Wet (half cap of oil) yeilded 250. So the #1 ring isn't seated and I'm pretty bummed. What do I do now?
DonF, wanna help a brotha out!
Oh and btw, to all those that said "what did you expect" out of my dyno numbers, well......THIS.
Thanks for all the timely responses. Just not sure what to do now and will I start seeing a drop in oil because of this.

Well the DIY leakdown test confirmed my worst fears:
Dry compression from #1 yielded 200. Wet (half cap of oil) yeilded 250. So the #1 ring isn't seated and I'm pretty bummed. What do I do now?
DonF, wanna help a brotha out!

Oh and btw, to all those that said "what did you expect" out of my dyno numbers, well......THIS.
Thanks for all the timely responses. Just not sure what to do now and will I start seeing a drop in oil because of this.
This is a classic example of the fact that tuner's are not mirracle workers. If you bring in a motor with mechanical problems, you will leave disappointed.
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For more information visit http://www.Phearable.net or call 1-888-236-9831

Authorized Dealer & Tuner for: Hondata, eCtune, Neptune, AEM, Crome, Precision Turbo, Omni Power, Walbro, Innovate & more. Dyno Tuning Services, Ecu Chipping, Chipped Ecus, Conversion Harnesses, Widebands, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pumps, Map Sensors & more.
For more information visit http://www.Phearable.net or call 1-888-236-9831
Last edited by mtber; May 12, 2009 at 04:49 AM.
Original thread was made on Honda-tech Sad Day. (Dyno #'s) - Honda-Tech
The motor obviously wasn't assembled properly which has nothing to do with tuning.
This is a classic example of the fact that tuner's are not mirracle workers. If you bring in a motor with mechanical problems, you will leave disappointed.
The motor obviously wasn't assembled properly which has nothing to do with tuning.
This is a classic example of the fact that tuner's are not mirracle workers. If you bring in a motor with mechanical problems, you will leave disappointed.
I felt bad for the guy, he drove down from Jacksonville. Shit happens.
__________________

Authorized Dealer & Tuner for: Hondata, eCtune, Neptune, AEM, Crome, Precision Turbo, Omni Power, Walbro, Innovate & more. Dyno Tuning Services, Ecu Chipping, Chipped Ecus, Conversion Harnesses, Widebands, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pumps, Map Sensors & more.
For more information visit http://www.Phearable.net or call 1-888-236-9831

Authorized Dealer & Tuner for: Hondata, eCtune, Neptune, AEM, Crome, Precision Turbo, Omni Power, Walbro, Innovate & more. Dyno Tuning Services, Ecu Chipping, Chipped Ecus, Conversion Harnesses, Widebands, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pumps, Map Sensors & more.
For more information visit http://www.Phearable.net or call 1-888-236-9831
Whenever I see someone selling a freshly rebuilt motor that says it is stock bore, I get suspicious about whether the bore was measured, or if it was put together out of spec just to save the cost of machine work and new pistons.
By the time a Honda motor gets to 75,000 miles or so, it seems there is always a cyclinder or two oversized or ovaled enough to require a bore job to get all within spec. Yet there are so many rebuilt motors around that are heading into 300,000 mile territory with the original bores.
Those who opt just to hone, could end up with even sloppier bores, as it is easy to take off a lot of metal fast from a Honda bore using a CK10 or other pro hone, even with a 400 or 500 grit stone (and if you don't ask, you may find a guy planning on using a 320 stone on your Honda, which is a sign he doesn't know Hondas). A worn stone will also create uneven bores in the Honda, whereas it would be fine on a V8 Chevy block.
An engine is nothing but a giant air compressor pump (with fuel/air explosions), and the better it seals, the more air it pumps and the better it will run.
By the time a Honda motor gets to 75,000 miles or so, it seems there is always a cyclinder or two oversized or ovaled enough to require a bore job to get all within spec. Yet there are so many rebuilt motors around that are heading into 300,000 mile territory with the original bores.
Those who opt just to hone, could end up with even sloppier bores, as it is easy to take off a lot of metal fast from a Honda bore using a CK10 or other pro hone, even with a 400 or 500 grit stone (and if you don't ask, you may find a guy planning on using a 320 stone on your Honda, which is a sign he doesn't know Hondas). A worn stone will also create uneven bores in the Honda, whereas it would be fine on a V8 Chevy block.
An engine is nothing but a giant air compressor pump (with fuel/air explosions), and the better it seals, the more air it pumps and the better it will run.


