senor honda

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senor honda

https://www.fixmyhog.com/video/harle...36&vsoid=A6136

The Harley backrest grommets are lubed in this video along with any others as part of regular service. Loctite Viper Lube is a great way to keep these parts in service.
Related Videos:
How to use Loctite products on a Harley video
Loctite Epoxy Mixer Cups and Fairing Repair
Loctite Insulating & Sealing Tape
Dielectric Grease Uses
Download the Loctite Motorcycle Application Guide PDF

senor honda

https://www.fixmyhog.com/video/harley-vin-011411/

The vehicle identification number (VIN) is the identifying code for a SPECIFIC vehicle. The VIN serves as the vehicle’s fingerprint, as no two vehicles in operation have the same VIN.
A Harley VIN is composed of 17 characters (digits and capital letters) that act as a unique identifier for the vehicle. A VIN displays the vehicle’s unique features, specifications and manufacturer. The VIN can be used to track recalls, registrations, warranty claims, thefts and insurance coverage.
[h=2]What if the Harley VIN is not 17 characters long?[/h] Double-check to make sure that you have the right VIN and have copied it down correctly. Once you have verified that the VIN is definitely less than 17 characters, the VIN is most likely from a pre-1981 vehicle.
What do the VIN and letters represent? In this video Bob takes a couple of minutes to read the VIN on a 2001 Harley Davidson Fatboy.
The Harley VIN of this motorcycle is: 1HD1BMY161Y024825
Let’s break it down
1HD1 – All Harley VINS start with this; for many years now.
BM – two letters that represent model designation. BM is FLSTF. BH would be FXST, and so on.
Y- The single letter here indicates what motor the vehicle was built with.
Y represents Twin Cam 88, carbureted.
B would represent the same motor but injected.
1 – Internal factory assembly code.
6 – Internal factory assembly code.
1 – This 10th digit represents the motorcycle year. 1 represents 2001.
7, would represent 2007.
Y – Next, a single letter represents where/which plant the motorcycle was built. Y is York P.A. – K is Kansas City M.I
024825 – the last four digits are the sequential build number.
Bob reminds us how important it is to never alter, cover, or deface a VIN number. Doing so can eventually be a huge problem for you or somebody else. Look for your Harley Davidson VIN number near the neck of your frame. The VIN is typically stamped into the frame and also, usually appears on a permanent sticker that is on one of the frame down tubes.

senor honda

https://www.fixmyhog.com/video/progr...36&vsoid=A6136

Progressive Suspension Monotube Cartridge Assembly
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Select your membership plan and get our best Harley how-to videos with 24/7 access to tips and techniques from our professional crew, automatic renewal and our ‘cancel anytime’ policy. Description Bob and Mark have performed some of the same procedures as the left side fork on the right side 49mm fork tube. The fork has been completely disassembled and cleaned. The OEM parts that will not be used have been accounted for and set aside. The fork tube has been reinstalled into the Performance Machine chrome lower slider with upper and lower bushings, washer/spacer, a new James seal, and retaining clip.
We are now ready to install the Progressive Suspension monotube cartridge assembly into the fork tube. Carefully, secure the lower slider into the soft jawed vise. Install one factory dampner spring and one supplied dampner spring onto the bottom of the Progressive dampner assembly. Like the, conventional, left side; the second spring is what is used to lower the front end one inch.
Now, slide the entire assembly into the fork tube until it bottoms. The dampner bolt is prepped with a little blue Locktite and a new copper crush washer. Bob starts this bolt by hand and then torques to 30 – 37 foot pounds. Like the left side assembly; if the lower dampner bolt can not be correctly tightened at this time, it can be final torqued after the assembly is completed.
Now, the fork assembly needs to be installed into the fork tube holder. Have a second set of hands hold upward on the lower slider. This allows for enough room to fill the assembly with oil.
Use a small funnel to fill the fork tube with 200cc, or 6.76 ounces of fork oil.
*This small amount of fork oil is for lubrication purposes and not for suspension/cushion purposes as in the original, factory assemblies.*
Push downward pressure on the assembly and tighten with the supplied socket from Progressive. Torque to 16-43 foot pounds, which is a spec from Progressive.
The left and right side fork assemblies are complete and ready to install back onto the motorcycle.

senor honda

[h=1]1981 FXE Starter Wiring Issue[/h] I have a 1981 HD FXE. The issue is in the wiring system. If I have the wiring hooked up properly for starting, it keeps cranking. I then have to disengage the wire from the battery for it to stop. I have changed the relays, breakers, solenoid, starter, double checked all of the wiring according to my diagram and everything is wired correctly. Can you provide any assistance? I am preparing my bike for heading to Sturgis and would really appreciate your help.
Thanks, Doug C.

Hi Doug,
This might be a condition known as run on. It is caused by a weak battery, poor charging system or high resistance in an old wiring harness. The amperage draw to turn the starter causes the contacts in the solenoid to burn and weld themselves together. This can happen after just one start. I would start with a new h/d battery and solenoid. You should also update the relay from the old large style beneath the battery box to a new automotive style black Bosch brand. Use your stock h/d manual for troubleshooting and an 88 to 90 Softail manual for the relay update.

Follow up from Doug:
Just to update you on the problem that can now be considered solved. The problem was that the spring at the bottom of the solenoid was too long (was the one shipped with the solenoid). Putting in a spacer removed the grounding issue. This was nothing that anybody could figure out. Even one of the top bike builders in the states, who is a friend of my wife’s. Thanks again for your assistance. -Doug

Related Videos:
Starter Sprag Clutch
Starter Install

Related Questions:
Starter Tips

Have a question you want answered by a Fix My Hog expert? Send us your question here.
Tags: electrical, harley davidson battery, starter, wiring

senor honda

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senor honda

[h=1]In The Shop: Cam Chain Tensioners[/h] [h=2]Cam Chain Tensioners[/h] From 2000 until 2006 Harley Davidson’s cam chain tensioners on their Twin Cam motors were, to say the least, a complete and utter failure. A lot of us were, and are still, scratching our heads wondering how in the world they could not be held accountable and forced to recall these motors to be repaired on their dime.

Harley, eventually offered us an expensive “upgrade” but it was really just a repair/correction of their bad design. Although some motors are ok up to 40k or 50k. It has been our experience that most cam chain tensioners need replacement between 20k and 30k. We have seen a large number of bad cam chain tensioners under 15k. Debris from these failing tensioners can cause premature failure of the oil pump and cam bearings leading to more catastrophic engine failure.

[h=2]Where does this leave us?[/h]
Being that a failing tensioner cannot always be heard, we have to suggest to our customers & friends that any 2000 to 2006 Harley Davidson with spring style tensioners and 15k miles or more, have a visual inspection of the cam compartment. This is the only way to positively identify if you have good or bad tensioners. If you inspect your tensioners at 20k miles and they appear to have very little wear, it may be safe to run another 20k before another inspection. If tensioners are worn to 50% or less, we recommend upgrading to a hydraulic cam chain tensioner assembly or direct gear drive. Although it is a cheaper option, we do not recommend replacing with a new set of spring style tensioners as it is a gamble on how far they will take you.

When inside your cam compartment, it is of upmost importance that your inner cam bearings and your cam plate bearings be replaced. Also, thoroughly clean and inspect your oil pump and lifters if they are to be reused. There are a number of options available for hydraulic or gear drive assemblies. Cost will vary significantly. Do some research to determine what assembly or combination of parts will work best for you, for your riding style and for your budget.

Here is an example of a bike that recently passed through our shop.

Motorcycle: 2003 FLTR – 35k miles

INSPECTION:
Cam Compartment:
Primary tensioner, approx 10% life
Secondary tensioner, 0% (worn thru)






























REPAIR:
Fueling hydraulic cam chain tensioner kit
S&S adjustment pushrods
S&S lifters
Cam bearings (inner & plate)
Chains (primary & secondary)
Stock cams – reused
All necessary gaskets/seals & fluids






















[h=2]Videos on Inspection and Repair:[/h]
Cam Chain Tensioner Shoe Video Class Tags: cam chain adjuster shoes, cam chain tensioner shoes

senor honda

[h=1]Loose Wire on Fuse Block[/h] How to repair loose wire on fuse block?
Via Email

Remove the connector from the fuse block. See if it can be saved/repaired. Otherwise, we would suggest purchasing the correct OEM spade connector(s) from the dealer. Your objective should be to return the fuse box back to its original form.


Related Fix My Hog Videos:
http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/harley...ectors-004726/
http://www.fixmyhog.com/video/welcom...trical-002169/


Have more questions? Check out our Q&A index page to find some answers.

Tags: electrical, fuses

senor honda

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senor honda

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