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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 03:01 PM
  #31 (permalink)  
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Originally Posted by williamb82
no anger, just flabergasted at what your wanting to do and your reasoning for it.

i guess i understand where you are comming from, but to understand my position youd have to know me. i am a nutswinger for N/A builds. yeah i could throw boost at this and get to 200 no prob, but i want n/a.

if you met me in person, youd see that im retarded.



...with money.
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Last edited by rotarykidd; Sep 24, 2010 at 03:04 PM.
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Old Sep 24, 2010 | 05:44 PM
  #32 (permalink)  
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You are in largo? I'm in largo/seminole around walsingham, if you want to see my car just PM me.

And thank you Ninja, i have just heard over 100psi in a stock fuel rail is a no-no
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 08:06 AM
  #33 (permalink)  
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Why 16V? I can understand the N/A part, but NA 16v just seems hopeless. When you look at the cost of ITBs on a 16v(20V ITBs, 20v to 16v adapter plate, Breather's, etc) You're a couple hundred dollars away from a complete 20v silvertop swap, that already has ITBs.

Bill Sherwood's Modified 4AGE Page

That link will really put into perspective how useless the 16v 4a is when it's NA. And how much money it will take to get to 200hp NA.
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Originally Posted by whattadobo
People fucking suck, I'm selling my car and buying a treefort.
Originally Posted by osama tim laden
shit got all davided up.
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Old Sep 26, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #34 (permalink)  
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Originally Posted by UnderStitching
They say with a 12:1 FMU, which seems really crazy to me, you can use stock injectors.
I have a T28 laying around and i believe my 4age is stock. If i do a nice thick head gasket and arp studs, stock injectors, 12:1 fmu, and adjustable fpr could i see around what the stock waste gate actuator wants to offer (7psi)?

Without doing a headgasket/head studs could i see 5 pounds?

I have heard of click modding AFMs but i don't think i will need to go much larger on the injectors. I could be wrong, and please correct me if i am

From the looks of it there is no wiring necessary to move the AFM to the driver side to cooperate with a turbocharger.
12:1 FMU is nuts. I wouldn't use stock injectors, those will burn out fast and really limit your potential. Grab either some GZE injectors or some 7MGTE injectors, you will need the clips off the 7M's however, GZE drop right in. 5pnds on stock HG/HS is fine. You can do the click mod it's hit or miss, some people have good luck some dont. Also get a walbro or supra fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator and bump it up about 5pnds. You will also need some fuel management like an SAFC atleast.
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 06:54 AM
  #35 (permalink)  
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Originally Posted by rotarykidd
i guess i understand where you are comming from, but to understand my position youd have to know me. i am a nutswinger for N/A builds. yeah i could throw boost at this and get to 200 no prob, but i want n/a.

if you met me in person, youd see that im retarded.



...with money.
if you want to go n/a, id go 1uz with gsxr 40mm itb's and a megasquirt, with r154. but thats me.stock internals and compression with a good exhaust would be ~300rwhp. later you could get a spare set of heads to port and some cams etc...
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2042690/1 black 84 supra, 7mgte, truetrac, bbk, etc.. more in the works

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2117186/1 blue 85 supra, beater

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2965297/1black 86. saved from the crusher! wicked setup on the way.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2235741/1 64 chevy c10, finally getting a new body. woot!
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 02:49 PM
  #36 (permalink)  
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Originally Posted by williamb82
if you want to go n/a, id go 1uz with gsxr 40mm itb's and a megasquirt, with r154. but thats me.stock internals and compression with a good exhaust would be ~300rwhp. later you could get a spare set of heads to port and some cams etc...

ive heard alot about doing this. good idea, but ive heard it really does mess with ballance and makes the car some what front heavy. if im going to swap it will be light and not complicated. thats pretty much the entire reason i want to build a 4a, in and out. no bullshit besides the mega squirt to deal with.
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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I would put the money towards suspension before power since you want it to be a drift car.
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Originally Posted by whattadobo
People fucking suck, I'm selling my car and buying a treefort.
Originally Posted by osama tim laden
shit got all davided up.
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 04:12 PM
  #38 (permalink)  
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Originally Posted by rotarykidd
ive heard alot about doing this. good idea, but ive heard it really does mess with ballance and makes the car some what front heavy. if im going to swap it will be light and not complicated. thats pretty much the entire reason i want to build a 4a, in and out. no bullshit besides the mega squirt to deal with.
the 1uzfe weighs less than an sr20. this is the swap im doing in my 86
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by David48
I would put the money towards suspension before power since you want it to be a drift car.

susp is first. poly bushings, new struts and shocks, allready have the meagan springs, and some tie bars = fin. i may even cage it in the future.
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Old Sep 27, 2010 | 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by ninja999
the 1uzfe weighs less than an sr20. this is the swap im doing in my 86

holy shit seriously? ive only heard bad things about 1uz'ing these cars.
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