i just call the 3rd gen 3sgte turbo a ct-26 cause its the same flange. the ct-20 came on the 22rte that came in the 80's toyota pickups and 4runners. its really small even for the 2.4 22r engine so beware of anyone tring to sell you this turbo for your 3s.

 

This is just my opinion , I would just use a real good fpr like you listed above instead of a s-afc to control fuel. They have a bad rep for causing more detonation ,what your trying o stay away from , from advancing the timing and you dont realize it cause it " tricks "the ecu on a 2nd gen. Now on a 3rd gen , since it has a map sensor and no afm they are actually somewhat usefull because 3rd gens are velocity tuned and not metered by a huge box with a flapper in it . Its just an opinion I got because I was going to do this type controller and after seeing what are some negative side effects , I decided not to. FWIW.

 

Well an S-afc does not "cause detonation" its the bumblehead behind the programming of it that does generally. BUT, I have heard stories about the timing issue before but someone solved it....

That said, Instead of dicking around with an SAFC, I'd stay stock w/an FPR or spend the money to get the http://www.mrcontrols.com/ standalone for the car. Plugs into the factory harness and retains ALL factory options, no other standalone can say that. Plus look at the list of features, its more than enough.

 

http://www.mrcontrols.com/products/sdrpnp.htm

Here is the link to the $1000 plug and play system.....

 

Thanks for the info, and you are probrably correct about the advantages of the EMS vs the S-AFC.

The problem I have with the EMS (Other then the price difference) is that I never used one and dont know anyone that has for MR2s.... This scares me because I wouldnt know what the "H' I would be doing Bro!

All and all, I'm still waiting to get my JE Pistons and Rods. Since I'm repairing a head gasket (Overheated) I figured I might as well and replace the pistons and rods.

I'm getting tired of waiting and running low on funds, so I might just run 12lbs of boost for now and get some miles under my belt on the new motor.

Then I will figure out the:

Turbo upgrade ?
S-AFC or EMS ?
Greddy IC ?
Exhaust (Mad Hatters) ?

I have a long way to go and lots of upgrades to do... I dont have a problem with cash most of the time, but being without my car plain sucks dude! I need to learn how to pace myself. :bbb:

PEACE-

 

If you get the EMS, just go to Enthalpy and get it dyno tuned. Hes not one of those tuners that just does WOT tuning. He can get your driving around tuning just like stock. His 550+whp 240sx on 96lbs injectors and huge cams idles practically as well as a stock KA. and past 1500rpm it drives smoothly and easilly. There really is no reason to sacrafice drivibility when you have a standalone, tuning fixes all those things, hell you'll prob get better than stock gas mileage as well.

 

Riddlemr2 and I talk about this all the time. I've been trying to get him to go with an EMS forever....

On the MR2 board in my opinion they all miss something....

Most of them that have modified the car heavilly have a huge turbo, proper fuel system, built motor, EMS, everything.. And they go out and make 260whp.. Why? Why at XAT does a huge GT35R MR2 make 280whp with a built motor?

Because the owner is tuning the car himself, without a dyno, on the street with an AFR narrowband....

I swear.. Nobody on the MR2 board can tune a standalone. Noshoes is OK but he's the one that came to secret services and claimed a thing called "fuel detonation" where if you put too much fuel into a cyl it will combust on its own.... He tuned the car to 12.8:1.. raced enthalpy and blew it up..

I know hes had a lot of success and hes the best the mr2 board has, but still.. that scares me.

Anyhow, and riddlemr2 knows this, my biggest gripe with him is that he dosent have an EMS. Same with MR2Driver. I Just want to see someone on a small turbine make 350whp like a GT25 or something (come on MR2 driver, I know u wanna break 300-310 with the "CT20B" for bragging rights), its been done on the SR20 why not on the 3S.

If I had money my build would go like this...

Gen 3 motor would be nice but I wouldnt mind doing this to a GEN2 as well so I could keep all my factory options as well.

Plug and play SDR ems.
3071R (yeah yeah Dave I know)
Custom full 3 inch exhaust from turbo back, twin pipes still
93+ tranny (if car was older than 93)
Intake of course
Spearco IC
Water injection (controlled by EMS)
550 supra injectors
Walburro 255 HP
FPR (rising rate)

Power wise is now done.

I'd have enthalpy tune it on the dyno as well as street drivibility tune. RUnning 93 octaine w/the water injection for the high boost (I know the 550's might be running thin on a 3071R at high boost, but enthalpy has taken 550's to 396whp on 93).

Anyhow, given that my fuel and spark would be perfect, I retain all my stock options, and I didnt have to buy an SAFC, boost controller, or water injection kit (all together more expensive than the EMS!) I've got one hell of a deal.

 

You won't run 12's with that combo. The all time record for a ct26 is in the high 12's (I believe) bu noshoes with a completely built motor, huge cams, highly tuned, and on the ragged edge of destruction. The problem is that 230rwhp does not = 276hp. The estimate of 200hp in the stock mr2 was a marketing decision, not a scientifit reality. Do you really think there is 40hp lost in the small dirvetrain of an mr2? You need over 240rwhp to make 12's and that's if you drive like a maniac with sticky tires. I'm not trying to be a jackass...I'm just trying to keep you from going down the road that thousands of mr2 owners have paved with high 13 second timeslips.

 

Souds like a good idea dude.

I'm going to come back to this thread for referencing early next year 2005, when I'm ready to start getting serious with performance bolt ons.... for now, I'm going to run a simple 12lbs using my Greddy Profec B II.

In the meantime, I have some upgrade (Non Performance) things I'm going to be doing... like:

Leather seats (Need to buy, I was refered to SunBright)
Sound (Have the equipment, just need installation)
Body kit (Font & side pieces of the Boder kit in Fiberglass)
Paint job (I want a shine so deep, that you can fall into it)
RIMS (I thinkin about some 17" chromies)
Exhaust (Any downpipes out there for sale?)

When I finish this stuff, I'll go back to the performance side.

 

I retain all of my stock options with my gen3 except cruise control. I also didn't have to buy an SAFC, or water injection kit, and the only reason you don't "need" a boost controller with an SDR is because you can elect to drop another $200 on a boost control soleniod for the computer (more than what I paid for a profecB). There is no need for a standalone on a gen3 if you want 320-ish rwhp like I do. The arguments in favor of a standalone for a gen2 don't apply for the gen3. There is no AFM to delete, the turbo already rocks, it comes with 550cc injectors, and runs 12's out of the box. The argument that an SDR "only" costs $1000 is also a little fishy. That will get you the box, but add a few options like the wideband and boost control solenoid and you're up to $1500. Add full dyno tuning and it will cost at least $2000. The biggest point is that 320rwhp will get an mr2 near 11's while other cars would still be in the mid 12's (In most cases, I know everybody has a friend who ran a 9.99 with 145rwhp so don't get stuck on that single point).

Now, if you have a gen2, then the above combo makes the most sense and would be a really potent player, but it will still be quite costly. The gen2 mr2 isn't cheap to make fast. The best dollar to speed ratio I've ever seen on an mr2 belongs to mr2driver, and he certainly didn't need a standalone on his gen3 to run a 12.37.