wanna be ferraris roxor!



my plan is:

brawler t3/t4 with the 46 trim
walbro pump
supra injector
some sort of top mount
send my ecu in to ats for rom tune

currently have:
no name intake
blitz nur spec
blitz bov

 

Call it treason, but much later, I'd like to put a 4G63 in a 2g MR-2, but still use a Toyota tranny.

Of course, by then, I'll either

1) Have the funds to pay someone to do it
2) Have the experience to do it myself, along with the money
3) Do it with a DeLorean instead (sorry, heavy fan. Always have been always will be.) The stock V6 is...less than "good". People throw V8s and such in there all the time. John DeLorean was thinking about using the 4G63 in his cheaper, more economical next creation anyways I've heard. But hes hard to track...

4) Be mature enough to realise it'd be stupid or whatever, or just plain forget about it

Oh, Voice of Id, btw, your car is clean as fuck

 

thanks, you should see me drive around town sometimes. if you want to look at it, i am at aci a lot, since my friend is the manager there

 

ACI? Whats that? Where too?

I'd certainly like to check it out soon. I'll just wait till I get my car first though. I'll be going to SCTI for the automotive class next year, so I should be driving all over Sarasota (north especially) enough to meet you some time

 

Riddle, you have angered me! j/k

i totally agree with you, clipping the turbine wheel on any stock turbo is a BAD idea. it kills the efficiency of the turbo and sacrifices too much spool for a little top end flow... it just ruins the entire turbo.

what if you guys had a MK3 CT w/ a 57 trim or 60 trim. what results could you guys if you used one of those dealies?

also, are your fuel injectors indeed, side feed? or what? My friend can make you a custom fuel rail that is like 1/2" ID, the entire way. and you could also switch to the more common Denso/pintle top feeds and just use some DSM 450's or MK3 440's and get your 300HP that way... there are COUNTLESS people who use a custom rail with brass barb fittings, and then remove the upper o-ring on those top feeds. then clamp some fuel injection hose between to two. the deep groove on the top feeds creates a locking seal on the hose that wont slip off. then he could weld on some AN fittings so you have -6 ends on it. that will take care of your fueling issues in one fell swoop. i think you guys may find out, with a custom rail like this, that your fuel pump will take you ALOT further than it ever did before. even a Denso 190 from an FD3S or 3/S tt would work very well. but of course, a Walbro would be safer, as they are brand new, no miles. you could also easily install an Aeromotive AFPR w/ those -6 ends on the rail.

i personally would address the fuel system,and then do a turbo upgrade... that way you dont have a big turbo thats rarin to boost up but have to resist the urge because of your fuel system.

a 20G would be an ok turbo for you guys... its just the cost of the REST of the kit that makes it such a bad choice. you could get a used 20G for like $500, or cheaper... then just take the DSM turbine gasket and the stock CT gasket to a machinest, and have him machine you out an adaptor plate to mount the 20G on the Ct manifold. and with the 20G, you could easily run a divorced down pipe and just add a Tial 38mm to the WG runner.

think outside of the box, not off the shelf guys.

 

listen to Ridddlemr2, the sw20 is a great car but there are some things you should do to the car first before you start hotrodding it. these cars can be made to haul ass but you can't cut corners and do ghetto stuff to them like you can to a DSM or nissan turbo cars. Mr2's are like Rx7 turbo's, just do whats right and been proven , don't try and be billy bad ass and try and cut corners, thats why soo many of them end up blowed up. not to start a pissing contest but there is no such turbo as the ct20b, its just a 3rd gen ct26. and whats with toyota and crappy intake manifolds, the 4agze intake manifold has a big dog leg in it for the #1 cylinder too. has anyone ever tried using a intake manifold off a celica instead. i was gonna do a 3sgte swap to my 86 celica gt-s that has the 1st gen 3sge in it and it has tvis too but the manifold looks alot better than the turbo one. i was gonna bolt the n/a mainfold to the turbo motor to help shorten intercooler piping. it would make the piping a little longer in an MR2 but it wouldn't have a stupid kink in it and prolly flow better. and it switches you to top feed injectors so, not sure if the 3sgte is side or top feed. not tring to step on toes but having messed around with alot of other toyota's including aw11, ae86, mk3 supra's and celica's i have a pretty good idea of what parts from other toyota's you can use to make shit work right. and the thing about toyota's is that most shit interchanges anyway so all you ahve to do is try and it normally works out.

 

Riddle's post will be added to the mr2 faq...

 

Hachibill made a good point that there is no such thing as a "ct20b." There is a ct-26 on a gen2 3s-gte, then the gen3 just shows up with a random bad-ass turbo which is not a ct-26. Since so many people call it a ct20b, the board just sort of decided to just call it that anyway, even though it doesn't technically mean anything. Mr2 owners need to pay special attention to that fact when buying turbos on ebay because there was a ct-20 installed on toyota trucks in the 80's which is not the same turbo as the gen3 3s-gte turbo. That little technically non-exiatant "b" goes a long way sometimes. Either way, the "ct20b" or the gen3 3s-gte turbocharger is a sweet turbo.

 

With so many products, its very easy to lose sight of reality sometimes and get caught up in:

Big $ Turbos
Huge $ Exhaust
Fuel Pumps, Oversized injectors and Big $ EMS
etc...

Lets keep this simple and look for simple results before we get critical and spend tons of money.

Check it:

The MR2 T (After a basic tune up of stock OEM parts) pumps out around 200hp (160rwhp). ok, this is ground Zero.

With these simple parts below:

HKS Intake (Got this)
Greddy IC (Need to buy, any offers)
Greddy Profec B II Boost Controller (Got this)
Greddy Boost cut gizmo (Got this)
HKS SS B.O.V. (Got this for fun, you actually dont need it)
Any 2.5" Exhaust (Need to buy) *Wanna help me gut the cat?
Red line fluids (Just for good measure)

With the parts above, and without touching any timing, cams, fuel pressure.... and running at 16lbs of boost.... I bet I will reach 276hp (230rwhp) easy. Yeah, thats right easy with a stock engine, clutch, and the so called "crappy" CT-26 stock turbo.

Guys, MR2s have been done thousands of times before. Unfortunetly, not before some of you brave racers have ventured off into your own discoveries. In any case, this is where I expect to be... I call this Stage 1. Stage 2 is next:

Stage 2 is simply tuning the car. We all know that after you past 12lbs of boost the MR2 starts to dump tons of fuel to keep from possible detenation cause it doesnt know whats going on. Meaning the MR2 doesnt know that the driver is raising the boost on purpose. LOL.

This is where we seperate the tuners from the random guessing tweakers. LOL.

S-AFC piggy back fuel computer (Need to buy, any offers)
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (Need to buy, any offers)
Dyno (A shop w/ a Wide Band O2 Sensor available, know of one)

Now we can lean some of this extra fuel (Richin at other points) and see the dyno results. After a long day, there is no reason in the world we shouldn't go from 230rwhp to 250rwhp!

Now the only modification I'm going to do to the CT-26 is a 12 degree clip to hold a bit more peak power. This should then put me into 255rwhp or 306hp total.

So for around $300.00 I get a refreshed CT-26 with a slight modification that pumps out about 6 hp extra. I think its worth it.

All in all, 306hp should put me in the high 12s (Its really all driver and a little luck).

Stage 3: If I ever wanted to get more juice out of the MR2 then...

A real EMS (Would sell the S-AFC)
Supra fuel pump
Fuel rail (Stock one favors two pistons, this is why you blow #3)
Supra Injectors
Magnecore wires
New clutch (Aftermarket of course)
1993 MR2 (OEM rear axel)
Bore Throttle body
HKS CAM
Lighter shims (For high revs 7,500rmps and up brother)
Metal Head gasket (Got this)
JE Pistons and rods (Got this)

Here the sky is the limit with HP, and I havent ventured this far, but I'm not interested in investing a bunch of $ to gain big HP to achive shaving a sec or 2 from a 1/4 mile race. I rather be a car lenght behind and only worry about gas and oil changes at stage 2 then having myself bent over my Engine lid all the time (Ouch my f'in back!) LOL.

Anyway, if anyone wants to make friends with me and help me in my little MR2 quest... let me know, I could use some help now and again. Can't wait to actually go to car meetings & events again.... ahhhh the smell of clutch.

PEACE-

 

Ditch the Magenecore wires... Stock toyota wires have been proven to be the best over and over again, even over 800WHP. Just use stock toyota wires and NGK plugs (copper).

Also JE pistons and rods arent really that great. Try a company called CP, they make some incredibally badass equipment, I'll try to find some pictures.