This is true. But dont forget how your fuel curve looks Riddle

I do agree mark has a great bang for the buck setup, But I'd be willing to argue that if either of you went standalone and tuned properly you will make gains in powerband, area under the curve, fuel economy, and daily drivibility. Plus it opens the door to future mods in the safest way possible.

Gota leave work now... Last guy with a key is on the way out, will finish later

 

These typical mods have been dyno tested over and over and over. I have witnessed them personally. The highest I saw output was about 210rwhp. This is a basic car with intake, exhaust, downpipe, intercooler upgrade, ebc and boost cut eliminator. BTW, you need a 3" exhaust. 2.5" is for n/a cars. You can run a 2.5, you will have like 225tq and about 180rwhp at this stage.

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Stage 2 is simply tuning the car. We all know that after you past 12lbs of boost the MR2 starts to dump tons of fuel to keep from possible detenation cause it doesnt know whats going on. Meaning the MR2 doesnt know that the driver is raising the boost on purpose. LOL.

This is where we seperate the tuners from the random guessing tweakers. LOL.

S-AFC piggy back fuel computer (Need to buy, any offers)
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (Need to buy, any offers)
Dyno (A shop w/ a Wide Band O2 Sensor available, know of one)

Now we can lean some of this extra fuel (Richin at other points) and see the dyno results. After a long day, there is no reason in the world we shouldn't go from 230rwhp to 250rwhp!

Now the only modification I'm going to do to the CT-26 is a 12 degree clip to hold a bit more peak power. This should then put me into 255rwhp or 306hp total.

So for around $300.00 I get a refreshed CT-26 with a slight modification that pumps out about 6 hp extra. I think its worth it.

All in all, 306hp should put me in the high 12s (Its really all driver and a little luck).

Once again you are way over estimating the results. With all of the 'piggy back' units you are intailing, you are forgetting that in order for the s-afc to actually accomplish anything, you will also need a vpc which are pricey. Might as well just get a stand alone. With tuning on just an s-afc and fpr you may gain an additional 10rwhp. You cannot tell the engine it is receiving less air, you can only trick it that you are running less boost by leaning or richening the fuel mixture, only bad thing is, timing will naturally retard or advance due to the ECU making adjustments because the air and fuel mixture does not fit into it's curves. You will not gain much.

Carlos and I had almost identical cars, only difference was he was using an s-afc, greddy ic and I was using a gforce ecu and stock ic. My car walked carlos' every single time. Because my ecu wasn't making drastic timing changes. His best track times were high 13's, mine high 12's.

We both had:

Gen 2 3sgte
intake, exhaust, ebc, ct26 w/54 trim.

 

Are you telling me that there is really no reason to use an Aftermarket IC when pushing around 240rwhp?

If that's the case, I found this site www.turbohoses.com/turbokits.htm that sells better IC Pipes that will fit on the stock MR2 IC. Do you think this will be enough for daily drivin an WOT every now and again?

BTW, I just purchased some really cool coolant hoses from this place last night www.samcosport.com/samco.asp?make=toyota

Tell me more about the Gforce thing. What does one get out of it? Was it worth it?

Thanks.

 

If you dont have a 3rd gen I would say go standalone and such for over 300whp on a 2nd gen , but Im still gonna safely try for it without one being I have the 3rd gen turbo and almost have all my fuel querks worked out . Stock manifolds and ic , will most definitely have wi and a few other things like a actual working o2 sensor ( mine doesent ever work properly ) and egt and oil pressure gauge and ect.ect. Just all small things like so to see how far it will go.I have a hks ssqv with the mr2 adapter and filter Love Doctor if you want to buy it .Also NO ONE HAS REALLY BROUGHT CHANGING YOUR WIRING HARNESS TO BE COMBATIBLE WITH A 3RD GEN MAP SENSOR AND ECU TYPE SETUP,any feed back onthat ? Ive thought it but backed out due to lack of money as always. I have seen as many people as I can stand do alot of so called power adders and never leave the mid 13s and 2.0 on the 60ft and that is enough to convince all thid after market stuff is hype . FWIW

 

I would upgrade the hoses and clamps, but not really worry about the intercooler pipes. The only one I have changed out is the one that goes from the intercooler to the throttle body. I just bought a 2.75" U bend from jc whitney or whatever for $15. Cut it to size. Then bought the reducer 2"-> 2.75" for aroudn $12. Gen 2 would need a 2.5" U bend.

 

The turbohoses kits are overpriced. You can just go down to amazon hose and pick up the various hose sizes and lengths for a lot less money. As for the Gforce ecu...it's not a bad thing to do, but it's not a good thing either. They're old technology which first popped up in '99. It basically serves as an expensive fuel cut defender and rev limit eliminator. There are many better mods one can perform on an mr2. The Gforce will add some top end and decrease turbo lag, so if somebody gives you one for Christmas, it can be sweet, but I wouldn't buy one.

Back in the day mr2driver took the old school mr2 mods to their limit when he ran a 12.9 with an upgraded ct26 and Gforce ecu. Unfortunately the engine is no more.