My goal is to reach 300hp (240rhp) in my MR2 Turbo. Anyone here believe that the CT-26 (Stock) can't reach this goal?

I believe that the CT-26 (Stock) can reach it at a safe 16lbs of boost (Probrably shifting around 5,500 RPMS), but at least I would be spooling up faster than an upgraded turbo. Sure, the upgraded turbo will pump out more HP... but since I'm keeping the stock fuel setup.... it can only net around 15 to 20 hp more than the regular CT-26.

Given this educated guess... I think I would probrably cut a faster time (At least in the 1/8 mile track) spooling quicker than slower with an extra 15 to 20 hp! Even if I'm not quicker, you would have to measure the differnce in milli secs either way! I think when I consider investing $ 575.00 in a upgraded CT-26 or $ 850.00 for a CT-20B in this scenerio... its not worth it.

After listening a bit here and researching on line, I now believe that its going to take a Greddy Intercooler to achive this safely. The cheapest price I found was $ 850.00 (new).

Comments?

 

the CT20B will spool faster than a CT26 in any condition. Seriously.. your best bet is to use the CT20B.

 

Thank you all for your comments.

After reviewing my options I've decided to do the following, which I believe will push me into the 300 hp (240rwhp) range [give or take 10hps].

Greddy Side mount Intercooler
Refresh my stock CT-26 Turbo and add a 12 degree clip ($250.00)

Extras:

*Ceramic coat the exhaust side on the Turbo for good measure
**Large Intercooler Fan

According to all the data I found. The MR2 3SGTE CT-26 Turbo spools up around 3,200 RPMS and runs out of breathe around 5,500 RPMS @ 16lbs of boost. I've been studing many dyno charts and the weak point is not the small compressor wheel (40mm trim). So, upgrading this to a 46,50... or 60 doesnt seem like you most bang for your buck.

Now by clipping it 12 to 15 degrees, it will move more air out of the Turbo at max boost.... thus holding power around 6,000 RPMS

The draw back, if you clip it you will be spooling around 3,500 RPMS to start (Little bit of lag). And hey, for $ 250 buck to refresh my old turbo and get a little edge... this makes more sense.

Comments?

 

the CT's maybe physically larger than the 20G, but will not flow more air... 20G's have put DSM's into the 10's and 11's and well over 118mph traps... has a stock CT26/20 put any MR2 into the 10's or even the 11's?

those 3S's have side feed injectors right? you could look into some MKIV 550's and then have all the fuel you need, just add a Walbro pump. if you dont already have one.

what is your intended use for the MR2? a quick daily driver, or a quick weekend driver, or a track only? depending on what you want to do, a Water/Air IC would be most efficient. that DSM sidemount you have is a perfect candidate. just have a welder enclose the front and back of the core w/ some 2.5" inlets on it, then run water INSIDE the core, and blow the charge air over the face of the core.

otherwise, a decent sized intercooler, like maybe a custom spearco core w/ some alky injection would be a very good setup.

i have a friend who could do the pipes for you if hes not busy, but hes not exactly cheap... i dont know what your budget is though.

if you had an EBC that would let you do speed/gear limited boost levels, you could make your open-diff tranny go a Long way... as long as you dont bang the gears like a gorilla trying to make it go faster and end up bending/breaking the shift forks.

 

I'm going to have to agree with you about the 20G DSM Turbos.

I think with proper tuning (Dyno + SAFC + Fuel Pressure Reg) and using the CT-26 (with clip) at 16lbs of boost running on 93 gas and a driver that has the stones to effortly shift at the proper power band shift points..... an MR2 T should hit mid 12's in the 1/4 mile.

(Assuming the basic bolt on parts): IC, Intake, Exhaust, electronics.

Once I have this time slip, its back to daily driving for me.... unless provoked on the streets. lol

Anyone disagree?

 

Upgrading the fuel system without upgrading the factory rail to a larger bore or buying an after market one is pointless. The factory rail will not support 550cc inj. or a upgraded pump the pressure falls through the rail like anywhere from three to six lbs from 1 to 4 even with a fpr and fuel pressure set at 50lbs . If you want 300 hp upgrade to a better turbo wether it be toyota or mitsubishi and upgrade your fuel rail,pump and then injectors. And if you want you dont have to go with a 550cc at first , when you go with a bigger rail and a fpr with a decent pump(your turbo pump,supra pumpect.ect.) they will be more like almost 480cc or more from the increase in the flow . They will get you to your goal.Oh btw, s-afc on a 2nd is not needed. Actually it causes you get more aggressive timing from trying to lean out or add fuel by using that kind of controller. If anything get a hks vpc or a standalone if you want more capabilities .

 

The spool of either turbo you are choosing doesn't matter when it comes to a 1/4 mile run. The rpms never drop below 4200rpm as long as you are shifting properly. Usable power is what is more key, and the ct20 has a lot more usable power in a drag race scenario. Clipping the turbine on the stock ct26 will get you a broader powerband, but the power output will probably stay the same or even go down a little. 240rwhp on a stock ct26 is going to be impossible unless you get headwork, like cams and port and polish, or you will have to use nitrous. A dude on the mr2 board made 260rwhp on a stock ct26 (at about 18-19psi because that was all the turbo could produce), but he had a completely built motor, completely built head and lots of dyno tuning. On that same exact motor he made 320rwhp on the ct20b at about 21psi (which it held to the shift point in each gear).

Water/alc injection will do what the stock intercooler is not doing, and that is cooling the charge temps. The restriction of flow you speak of just adds slightly more lag to the turbos spool. It will not effect it's performace at higher rpm since it will be all hot air blowing through the intercooler pipes at that point. The only gain I felt with the greddy sidemount was about 100rpm sooner spool and it did help cool the charge temps enough to dyno decent numbers. I did dyno about 10 hp higher on the stock intercooler though, on a day that was not nearly as hot as the day I dynoed with the greddy.

If you really still want to do an aftermarket intercooler, and want to be cheap, you can get one of those ebay honda front mount intercoolers for $225 and mount that in the trunk. Another $100 on various pipes, and cut a hole in the trunk lid, or the honeycomb out of the rear center panel.

I wish you the best of luck on getting 240rwhp out of a ct26.

 

Theres a tuner on the board with a stroker motor in his mr2 putting down like 500hp or more to the wheels with a td06 on a stock exhaust manifold .Im pretty sure it was one of those guys from ats racing . He offers the same kit on that car on his web site . It has ext. wategate of course. It made just as much power to the wheels as the sreet brawler t3t4 ko racing offers .I dont doubt the turbos , just didnt think because the ic was a little bigger would make it better for the mr2 . WI is a wise route ,fwiw

 

This is one of those threads that I wish I had been in on earlier because there are so many wrong things to do with an mr2 that it freaks me out. Anyway, here's everything I have learned in the past 6 years...

The stock ct26 is worthless over 16psi.

The stock ct26 is worthless under 16psi.

Upgrading the ct26 is almost always worthless unless you will only ever use the car as an auto-x car and will never want more than 225rwhp. If that's your goal, then it is decent.

Clipping the turbine on a stock ct26 is worthless in all cases, and only masks an inherent fault in the design of the crappy turbine.

The stock intercooler isn't that bad, but you need to upgrade the IC pipes and put a BIG fan on it. It will heatsoak quickly, but will flow enough air for over 300rwtq. If you do buy an aftermarket IC, half of the world will tell you to buy a Greddy, and the other half will tell you to get a Spearco. I have a greddy. It's like voting for a republican or a democrat, in the end it doesn't matter, America still rocks.

Anybody who tells you to put SPAL fans in your engine lid is retarted.

As mentioned earlier, the stock mr2 fuel rail is garbage and you will need a larger fuel rail to safely make more than around 300rwhp. For now, stick with a stock fuel system and keep the boost under 16psi. If you run more, set the base timing back a few degrees, and don't sue me when you blow it up anyway.

The ct20B is the best bolt-on turbo upgrade for the mr2, and will make plenty of power. It is good for any amount of boost you can run, but if you run too much, don't sue me when you blow your engine up.

If you blow your engine up, you will blow the number 3 cylinder, and it will probablly be a timing issue amplified by a lack of fuel in the nutso tvis intake manifold.

The TD-06 is the worst bolt-on turbo upgrade since you need to spend $3000 on the kit and an external wastegate just to make it control boost wihout spiking. Then a guy with a $600 t3/t4 will drive past you anyway.

The 1991 tranny is garbage, but if you treat it right and put some good redline tranny fluid it might last, but don't count on it.

The mr2 is an amazing car, but before you spend a dollar, find out exactly what you want the car to do, and focus exactly on that. You can spend $3000 to make 290rwhp, and $9000 to make 305rwhp. How bad do you ned 15 rwhp?

My comments will anger some...I apologize, but I've made most of those mistakes, so I learn from them.

 

good info.....almost makes me want an mr2...almost....