Nissan/Infiniti Tech SR20DET? RB26DETT? VQ35DE? What's it all mean? Find out here!

i need somone who knows SR's up and down

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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SR20 Freak
your on the right plug but you cant test ressistance with the harness still connected and with your leads set up like that you are actually testing resistance to ground rather thatn resistance through the ect.
Heres what you need to do:
1. (With cold engine) Disconect the harness plug and on the lower plug (going down under the intake manifold) put your black lead on one of the pins and the red on another with your meter on the 20k setting. i cant remember which two pin go to the ect bu just try them until you get a reading.
2. Reconnect the plug and warm the engine
3. repeat step one with meter on the 2000 scale
alrighty, now we're getting somewhere.... i'd go try it now, but my girl would be pissed if i went running outside and cranked my loud ass car up.... so tomorrow when it's good and cold. i'll test all....
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 08:14 PM
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sounds like someone needs a new girlfriend
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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1.13 cold@20k...

haven't checked hot yet... and i think it may still be a bit warm from earlier...
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 08:29 PM
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yea you really do need to wait because the engine has to be fully cold to get the correct reading
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 02:49 AM
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what are the numbers on the maf? it is possible you are using the wrong maf. I know a motorset i picked up from z fever ended up with a gti-r maf, did exactly what your saying. only way to tell the difference in the two mafs are by the numbers they look exactly the same. Martin is the one who actual solved my issue, had to drive back to them an swap them out. lmk the numbers and ill make sure its the right maf.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by ralph.
what are the numbers on the maf? it is possible you are using the wrong maf. I know a motorset i picked up from z fever ended up with a gti-r maf, did exactly what your saying. only way to tell the difference in the two mafs are by the numbers they look exactly the same. Martin is the one who actual solved my issue, had to drive back to them an swap them out. lmk the numbers and ill make sure its the right maf.
ya know, i had a ?? about that.... the maf has has four pins, and only three wires going in....
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 05:54 AM
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3.52 @20k cold on the new motors CTS
3.34 @20k cold on the old motors CTS

haven't checked warm yet

someone told me it may be the o-rings on the injectors... maybe??

i may have thrown the CTS code when i overheated the motor the other day (elec fan decided not to work for about 10 minutes...

lemme know guyz!
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 05:59 AM
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hey dude, it's like, $13 for a new coolant temp sensor.

S13SR's don't need o2 sensors to run great. I actually don't have one in my 62 ecu, the wideband took it's place. you can get better fuel mileage that way without any consequences as well.
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt Vassallo
hey dude, it's like, $13 for a new coolant temp sensor.

S13SR's don't need o2 sensors to run great. I actually don't have one in my 62 ecu, the wideband took it's place. you can get better fuel mileage that way without any consequences as well.
the recession has killed me, i'm laid off and looking for a job, so i could spend $13 on a new CTS, or i can check/test the TWO i have to see if either of those are good... if it ain't broke, don't fix it...

as for the 02, i don't have a wideband to eliminate it, i was just running the question out there see if that might be a problem or not...
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Blackzenki82
3.52 @20k cold on the new motors CTS
3.34 @20k cold on the old motors CTS
501/500 @2000 warm on the new motors CTS

rechecked my ECU after clearing it, and it shows error code 13 over and over...
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