i need somone who knows SR's up and down
installed motor, got everything hooked up, blah blah.... car starts woot woot.... now i go and drive it, and it's sluggish after 4k, where as we all know, that's when the SR's get happy... it's like it bogs, it just doesn't put out the power... compression is 160 across the board too...... i thought it might be something to do with the SAFC so i pulled the MAF wires from the harness and reconnected the harness (those in the know, know that the SAFC runs off the MAF singnal wire).. luckily enough, whoever installed it used spade connectors, so setting it back to original one wire to the ECU was easy....
now, it ran better with it like that, which means that the SAFC was messing stuff up, and it did run, and good... for a bit, maybe till the ECU corrected itself. now the idle is rough at 750, and smooth at 1000k where it likes to stay for some reason.
things i have done already to remedy the problem..
1. disconnected TPS and set time (used a timing light on Cyl#1 coil pack wire, i know supposed to use a spark plug wire but i don't have any)
2. put a volt meter on TPS and reset to .45V
3. changed plugs
4. fiddled with idle screw
5. after setting TPS, disconnected and checked time again, but light kept flickering...
6. Checked MAF by unplugging it while running, car sputtered and died within 3 seconds, reconnected and started up..
i haven't had a chance to drive it since i had all this checked and done, but i know the idle is for shit, like it's missing almost... more like a studder, or a half a miss... and every time i let off the gas after revving it pops.. maybe running rich?
also, it takes about 4 seconds for the car to catch and start... anyone know whats up with that??? maybe it has something to do with everything else...
and another problem, my cheap ass reused the spark plug O-rings for valve cover and filled EVERY one of the plug holes up with oil...the o-ring rubber hardened and doesn't hold a seal i guess.. but i soaked it up with a rag before pulling the old plugs out and putting the new ones in... i'll fix that tomorrow...
any insight guys?????? HALPPSSSS!!!!!
now, it ran better with it like that, which means that the SAFC was messing stuff up, and it did run, and good... for a bit, maybe till the ECU corrected itself. now the idle is rough at 750, and smooth at 1000k where it likes to stay for some reason.
things i have done already to remedy the problem..
1. disconnected TPS and set time (used a timing light on Cyl#1 coil pack wire, i know supposed to use a spark plug wire but i don't have any)
2. put a volt meter on TPS and reset to .45V
3. changed plugs
4. fiddled with idle screw
5. after setting TPS, disconnected and checked time again, but light kept flickering...
6. Checked MAF by unplugging it while running, car sputtered and died within 3 seconds, reconnected and started up..
i haven't had a chance to drive it since i had all this checked and done, but i know the idle is for shit, like it's missing almost... more like a studder, or a half a miss... and every time i let off the gas after revving it pops.. maybe running rich?
also, it takes about 4 seconds for the car to catch and start... anyone know whats up with that??? maybe it has something to do with everything else...
and another problem, my cheap ass reused the spark plug O-rings for valve cover and filled EVERY one of the plug holes up with oil...the o-ring rubber hardened and doesn't hold a seal i guess.. but i soaked it up with a rag before pulling the old plugs out and putting the new ones in... i'll fix that tomorrow...
any insight guys?????? HALPPSSSS!!!!!
What's the history on that motor? Have you dicked with the injectors, manifolds, fmic, cams, etc?
You're probably on the right track with the timing. To double check yourself, the CAS should be generally in the middle of it's adjustment range.
TPS sounds fine.
Falling on it's face after 4k sounds like a boost leak. Check your couplers and vac lines.
Check the ECU codes with the LED and screw on the back.
You're probably on the right track with the timing. To double check yourself, the CAS should be generally in the middle of it's adjustment range.
TPS sounds fine.
Falling on it's face after 4k sounds like a boost leak. Check your couplers and vac lines.
Check the ECU codes with the LED and screw on the back.
The Nismo Shop : West Covina Nissan : Nissan SR20DET OEM Valve Cover Gaskets
Order the S14 SR20 Sparkplug well gasket, fits on S13 SR's as well and does a much better job at preventing leaks. It's also cheaper.
Order the S14 SR20 Sparkplug well gasket, fits on S13 SR's as well and does a much better job at preventing leaks. It's also cheaper.
What's the history on that motor? Have you dicked with the injectors, manifolds, fmic, cams, etc?
You're probably on the right track with the timing. To double check yourself, the CAS should be generally in the middle of it's adjustment range.
TPS sounds fine.
Falling on it's face after 4k sounds like a boost leak. Check your couplers and vac lines.
Check the ECU codes with the LED and screw on the back.
You're probably on the right track with the timing. To double check yourself, the CAS should be generally in the middle of it's adjustment range.
TPS sounds fine.
Falling on it's face after 4k sounds like a boost leak. Check your couplers and vac lines.
Check the ECU codes with the LED and screw on the back.
as far as the injectors, i haven't messed with them, i had them pulled from the old motor for about 30 days, kinda out in the elements (i know.. but i seafoamed em DECENT) but thats all i did, pulled em off the old SR and put them on the new long block... no messing with cams, i still need to install the HKS 264s if i don't sell em... haven't touched the manifold except to put the throttle body on.. has a 4" FMIC with new clamps and a few other goodies....
We dropped a stock SR red top with a boost controller/bigger wastegate in a '93 240. That bitch used to run so rich, dog out over 4k and snack crackle and pop switching gears. Sometimes you would get a nice lil flame out the tail pipe. You need a tune.



