i need somone who knows SR's up and down
i TRY to do things right.... being the first time i've ever really worked on motors like this...
i'm used to old 302s 351s..... not these "high tech" engines... so i try and do what has to be done and not cut too many corners...
epstein, thanks for all your help man, out of all the forums i've posted this on, your replys are by far the most informative and detailed....
now... when i test, should i have the key to the "on" position? this is my first time delving into the eletronic elements of a motor...
hell, if my buddy who let me use his multimeter hadn't set it to the "20" for the voltage testing, i wouldn't know what to do with it.... all the numbers, and what not lol... so lend me a hand here, and once again, thanks!!!
i'm used to old 302s 351s..... not these "high tech" engines... so i try and do what has to be done and not cut too many corners...
epstein, thanks for all your help man, out of all the forums i've posted this on, your replys are by far the most informative and detailed....
The sensor changes resistance based on temp. Unplug the sensor and measure the resistance across it (car should be off). It should be 2.1k-2.9k when the engine is cold, and about 300-330 ohms when it's at operating temp. Basically, it should be between those numbers. When they go bad you'll either get an open or short circuit.
hell, if my buddy who let me use his multimeter hadn't set it to the "20" for the voltage testing, i wouldn't know what to do with it.... all the numbers, and what not lol... so lend me a hand here, and once again, thanks!!!
Last edited by Blackzenki82; Feb 9, 2009 at 05:52 PM.
throwing it up i the air. check coil packs one could be messed up i had something similiar happen to me and swapped out coil packs and it was good to go. jus an idea g/l
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Matthew "RudeBoy" Nugent 2/03/88-04/01/09
Matthew "RudeBoy" Nugent 2/03/88-04/01/09
already hit em up with a multimeter, and checked out fine, i also have two extra coil packs and tried each on every cyl... starter was doing work son....
what "ohm" reading do i check on the multimeter Ep? i know it's the upside down horseshoe looking thing... for testing do i set it at 2000k 200k 20k 20 2000 or 20??
i'm also having another potential issue.... i used my after cat o2 sensor from my KA and used it in the elbow on my SR... they looked exactly the same, and had the same connector... while running, if i disconnect it, it does absolutely nothing, no change.... let me know if i'm doing anything wrong here lolol
once again guys, thanks for all your input and HALPZ!!
what "ohm" reading do i check on the multimeter Ep? i know it's the upside down horseshoe looking thing... for testing do i set it at 2000k 200k 20k 20 2000 or 20??
i'm also having another potential issue.... i used my after cat o2 sensor from my KA and used it in the elbow on my SR... they looked exactly the same, and had the same connector... while running, if i disconnect it, it does absolutely nothing, no change.... let me know if i'm doing anything wrong here lolol
once again guys, thanks for all your input and HALPZ!!
Last edited by Blackzenki82; Feb 9, 2009 at 06:29 PM.
for the ohmmeter set it to 20k for the cold temp and 2000 for the operating temp. When you are checking resistance always go for the setting that is just above what you are aiming for other wise you will end up blowing the fuse in the meter or frying the meter if it is not fused, or you could invest in an auto ranging one, they cost a little more but are well worth it.
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okay let me make sure this is right...
20k on the ohm setting....
here's the numbers cold.... with the engine off...

here's the only part of the CTS plug that gave me any reading... this is right right? (no it's not the TPS plug..)

here's the reading i got with the egine running at operating temp....

on either side of the three wire plug, i didn't get ANY reading at all... so i'm assuming those are the power/ground, and the middle is the signal....
let me know if i'm doing anything wrong guys, and once again, thanks for the help!!!
20k on the ohm setting....
here's the numbers cold.... with the engine off...

here's the only part of the CTS plug that gave me any reading... this is right right? (no it's not the TPS plug..)

here's the reading i got with the egine running at operating temp....

on either side of the three wire plug, i didn't get ANY reading at all... so i'm assuming those are the power/ground, and the middle is the signal....
let me know if i'm doing anything wrong guys, and once again, thanks for the help!!!
your on the right plug but you cant test ressistance with the harness still connected and with your leads set up like that you are actually testing resistance to ground rather thatn resistance through the ect.
Heres what you need to do:
1. (With cold engine) Disconect the harness plug and on the lower plug (going down under the intake manifold) put your black lead on one of the pins and the red on another with your meter on the 20k setting. i cant remember which two pin go to the ect bu just try them until you get a reading.
2. Reconnect the plug and warm the engine
3. repeat step one with meter on the 2000 scale
Heres what you need to do:
1. (With cold engine) Disconect the harness plug and on the lower plug (going down under the intake manifold) put your black lead on one of the pins and the red on another with your meter on the 20k setting. i cant remember which two pin go to the ect bu just try them until you get a reading.
2. Reconnect the plug and warm the engine
3. repeat step one with meter on the 2000 scale
Last edited by SR20 Freak; Feb 9, 2009 at 07:58 PM.



