Stock injector/stock mafs/stock turbo cars don't need tunes to run well.

Well check the codes. I'm willing to bet that it's a dead knock sensor. That'll pull timing everywhere and make things really slow.

 

how do i pull codes? i know, plugnit in blah blah... sorry new to SR swaps but it doesn't seem like there's a port in my car, unless it's the one in the fuse box in the kick panel.....

i checked all today again, TPS, Ignitor, coil pack signals MAF stc... all read out to about 11.8V....

could i test the knock sensor in the same way? if so, what should the voltage readouts of the signal be? or will that even work?

 

Can't test the knock sensor like that.

Find the ECU. On the back there will be a tiny philips head potentiometer and an LED. Turn the car to "ON", the LED should be ON, twist the potentiometer all the way clockwise, pause 2 seconds, twist all the way counterclockwise. Now the LED will flash some codes out as 2 digits. # of long flashes is the first digit. # of short flashes is the second digit. Look up codes on the internet. "55" means all clear. Now repeat the clockwise-pause-counterclockwise to reset the ECU.

 

cant you test the knock sensor by like hitting it with a hammer or something

 

pulled the SAFC harness out and set all "OEM" ECU wires where they go...

i pulled the ECU codes, and it gave me error code 13, or coolant temp sensor... which i'm not sure would give me a bad idle....

also, as the engine was running, i disconnected the o2 sensor and nothing happened....

i reset the ECU 5 long lights, 5 short lights, and it still skips/stutters a bit at idle.... and take a bit to crank up.... also when i do crank it, it will fire, i stop turning the key and it immediatly cuts off... like it wants to start, but doesn't... i do that a couple time and it fires up and runs....

any insight???

 

coolant temp sensor is huge for nissans (and subarus). they run like crap with bad temp sensors. replace it. its cheap and easy. my turbo legacy barely ran with a bad temp sensor.

 

any way of testing it? cause i have the one that came on the long block i bought and the one on the bad motor... i'd just like to test em to see if i really need a new one or if i can just replace it...

 

swap them out. try the other one you've got. i'm sure there's a proper voltage across the pins, but I don't know it off the top of my head.

 

OMG give this guy a friggin trophy! For once someone goes and actually checks the codes on their ECU!

Yeah, coolant temp sensors will make the ECU go crazy. There are dozens of compensation tables in the ECU that are based on engine temp. When they're pegged high or low, the engine runs like crap.

The sensor changes resistance based on temp. Unplug the sensor and measure the resistance across it (car should be off). It should be 2.1k-2.9k when the engine is cold, and about 300-330 ohms when it's at operating temp. Basically, it should be between those numbers. When they go bad you'll either get an open or short circuit.

 

and he uses a volt meter to check sensors..thats a first for tr lol