Its not just for launching a car. Its more benificial for cornering. When the rear of the car compresses in a corner the S14 subframe will gain less toe and allows for more traction on the exit of the corner. It helps with everyone, but higher hp find it very useful to be able to put down the power exiting a corner.

 

Haha i know soon enough, And you reminded me, i changed my oil yesterday the f'ing oil filter wouldnt come off so i smashed a screwdriver through that bish and it finally budged.

 

Yeah, the mention of using offset aluminum bushings is what led me to go on a mission searching for how to use liquid 2 part poly to make my own bushings.

The main reason im looking for new bushings also is because 2 of the bushings on the subframe are actually bad, as chris said I dont really want a set of solids, I was planning on just getting energy suspension subframe bushings, but I dont think i'd be able to squish them enough, this is going to be my only daily driver, something where its going to make a large difference in the cars handling, or performance, I'm fine with a little extra NVH as i'll be doing most of the inside with some signifigant sound deadening anyway. However a bunch of solid bushings I dont see turning out too well.

Chris, I wasnt planning on using that "window weld" stuff, but rather some actual polyurethane 2 part mix made by a company that actually sells the stuff for applications other than putting car windows in.

I had complete "pillowball" rear suspension on my last full camaro build, as well as some stout subframe connectors, 3pt strut brace (not some little cusco aluminum bar, 1.125" or so dom steel tubing, and the T56 swap crossmember was 1/4" or so steel, hit a couple small potholes with it, and it was enough to cause back pain, skip that shit.


Kevin, you can come over and we'll stage THREE weight reduction our cars, we'll be able to beat vipers without even touching under the hood, then we'll go get vtec controllers, and decimate all, tune the nos timers and ohhh wait...

I guess the power windows/locks/mirrors kinda killed my xtreme weight reduction yesterday huh ? Oh well I doubt the nitrous bottle in the back helps either

 

i have hulked a filter on a time or two in my day and had to go that route. ugh

 

So dan, realistically I should be able to bolt the subframe in place, after gutting the original bushings, then bolt the rest in place, and fill the voids with the liquid poly, without worrying about it being off center due to the locating pins ?

 

I'd think so yes, but Chris would know better than me.

I have ES subframe bushings if thats of use to anyone. They are not any louder than stock/ aluminum spacers as far as I can tell.

 

I know its not just for launching, but what everyone doesn't know... My car is completely stock other than suspension. I have stock intake, stock exhaust w/ cat, stock clutch blah blah.

And really I'm not feeling the need for more power, like I used to. I may still finish my 2871 ka-t, but probably not =\

 

Full bushings, or inserts? I ran the ES subframe inserts on my red S13 and I agree; no noticeable NVH increase.

 

Don't need to gut the bushings. Just line up the subframe and jack it on. Then fill the voids that you see. Windo Weld is actually a heavy polyurethane. It's a lot harder than the stock rubber for sure. You don't need to worry about it being off-center because the bushings are identical left to right and should deflect the same on installation. Remember, the total deflection is 5mm per bushing. If it's off 20%, which is huge on an engineering scale, is only 1mm. Once you see it in there, you'll wonder why you ever worried about it.

 

Full bushings.

Also got my GReddy valve springs in today.