I ordered it from advance thursday, I ordered what I thought was a chambered muffler (for sound) but turns out its just a straight through with 2 exits.

 

Damn that sucks

 

My Nissan was all one color so I painted a couple panels two different colors today.

 

I have hacked the ECU a bit so far. I'm not a software engineer; I'm an electrical engineer. The whole thing is in assembly and is a giant pain in the ass. Everything is done with patches at this point. So far I've managed to program thermo e-fan control into an S13SR ECU. I've just recently got an S14SR ECU datalogging a MAP sensor through Consult. That along with numerous Consult hacks. So much was missing from the original understanding of the ECU that I've spent most of my time documenting the unused/unknown registers. Right now I'm figuring out how to use a spare switch input to control the S14SR's 4 different wastegate maps.

With the settings that I mentioned, you can run a stock KA with 740's at identical AFRs without touching the fuel map. I should also mention that I neglected tip-in correction (and glossed over engine temp correction) in my original description. With a fuel map full of zeros I could idle and cruise my last SR at 14.7 consistently. It's a decent exercise because then you can see where mafs turbulence really comes into play. Now asking me to do it without dialing it in is something completely different. All of this info has been done in my spare time with my own parts/cars. If I thought it was worth my time to figure out, I'd get it together. The fact that I did it on a lower displacement motor with cams and big maf points to a KA being cake.

As far as being a bandaid, those are THE settings in the ECU. I'm not tricking the ECU into idling at one AFR by telling it to fuel at a different one. These settings are also what Haltech gives you in the E8/E11. You'll find the same stuff in the PFC. Controlling an injector is not rocket science. If you can think of or describe another control mechanism to constrain an injector, I'd like to discuss it. What I'm trying to avoid is a technical discussion where I'm the only one being technical. Again, just trying to bring the tech back to Nissan Tech.

Here's a neat read from Mazworx about the new Injector Dynamics 2200cc injectors they're using to replace their Bosch 160# units. Addresses linearity and accuracy at extremely high and low duty cycles. 2200cc Injector @ 43.5psi?? 3700cc Injector @ 130psi « Mazworx Daily Blog

 

Tryed some interior polish some IDIOT reccomended to get rid of the tiniest scratch on my glovebox, and it faded the fucking finish.

On a positive note

Detailed it, and waxed it, shes shiny.

 

If you were attempting to talk about me

From my calculations the 8.5+13 has a hub to outer lip distance of 94.95mm
And the 15x7+18 70.9mm
And again the factory 16x8+30 GTR wheels 71.6MM

And by your calculator, comparing the 16x8+30 to the 15x7+18

Your new wheel will have the following chracteristics:

The clearance from stut housing to the inside of the wheel will be 25mm MORE
The outside edge of the wheel will RETRACT in towards the body by 1mm

So if you mean really do not know = off by .7mm, good job.


whattadobo, good you've probably also got a stretched tire, and some camber going on in the rear, he also stated he doesnt want to stretch out the body of the car, in some stupid effort to try to imitate big wheels with something that can fit under the stock body.

You do realize that 24mm difference will be used up real fast by some tires that actually have a little width to them, considering he's running a 7" wheel, I doubt he wants to go to a 165mm daewoo tire to get some stretch so he can run a wheel with less offset in an attempt to impress you. He might actually want the thing to accelerate instead of just spinning on the inside edge of his tires, so a bunch of negative camber might just be out of the question also.

 

Further proof, before anyone else decides to use their theoretical idea of "fitment" as factual evidence.

This wheel is 8.5" +40, and can be clearly seen poking past the quarter panel, this has a hub to outer lip measurement of 67.95MM, or it sits inwards of the fender about 3mm of the 15x7+18 I suggested, and whattadobos suggested 17x9+20 @ 94.3MM hub to outer lip sits about 25mm, or 1 full inch past this.

 

When that gets lowered onto the ground, natural camber will pull that in a little bit.

Not arguing either case, just stating a fact.

 

A little bit, but not by much, its supported by the jack under the LCA, ride height on my car is pretty high. Either way i've seen quite a few pictures of R32GTR wheels which at 16x8+30 I wouldnt want to go any further outward especially with any decent tire on there, him wanting to run something as narrow as a 7" wheel pretty much eliminates running a stretched tire unless he wants jack for traction, a bunch of negative camber will put him in the same area ya know ?

 

exactly what I was about to say.

That wheel is hanging, not on the ground with the stock or modified camber setting. A wheel hanging actually makes it look like your sticking out the 2*(12mm) more.

And actually, my front wheels were set at only -1* camber because if not my tire rubbed.

And then we go to your 17x8 +40. My 17x8 +35 w/ 5mm spacer (+30mm effective) has a full finger of play room in the front fender. Add that to the back, and the extra 10mm or so you have for clearance, and your 1/2" from the fender with stock camber/alignment settings.

just saying

As far as the 7" wide wheel, he wants to run 15-16s. The only way he'd need a stretched tire is to be tucking. The only way he will be tucking, is to be running a 60%+ sidewall on at least a 195 tire. That's with being slammed on the ground.

I ran 15x7 +0 with 205/50/15 all around with no issues, and stock alignment settings.