my vrt progression thread
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Joined: May 2010
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rear beam is back in, had to replace my rear passenger side hard brake line as it got a hairline crack in it during beam process
heres the notches cut to get the old retainers out
pressing them in with the pitman tool that i cut apart
andddd going through all my vacuum lines
i still have this god forsaken bucking issue...........its mostly when i shift into second and gas it, the car just starts jumping back and forth, like crazy.
could it be maybe because i have the older version of the C2 #42 software? ive heard a lot of people had a few issues with the older version of the software. would a cam position sensor cause this maybe? i dont know what else is left to replace haha
heres the notches cut to get the old retainers out
pressing them in with the pitman tool that i cut apart
andddd going through all my vacuum lines
i still have this god forsaken bucking issue...........its mostly when i shift into second and gas it, the car just starts jumping back and forth, like crazy.
could it be maybe because i have the older version of the C2 #42 software? ive heard a lot of people had a few issues with the older version of the software. would a cam position sensor cause this maybe? i dont know what else is left to replace haha
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so im over 1,000 miles on my new setup. still have it set to 10lbs, need to swap my bov for the new forge super diverter. been trying to hit boost and having epic fails. car falls on its face if i hit boost too sudden, think its a combo of compressor surge, and the nice surprise i found from the work Lutz Performance did on my intercooler tubes
i figured i had a boost leak somewhere, which is what would cause it to flatline on wot, turns out the passenger side IC tube was rubbing against the side of the frame rail, and made a nice hole in my tube. onto fixing that and seeing if i can get a good solid pull.
just did an oil change to non-synthetic oil and new NGK BRK7EKU gapped to .024 instead of .028
i figured i had a boost leak somewhere, which is what would cause it to flatline on wot, turns out the passenger side IC tube was rubbing against the side of the frame rail, and made a nice hole in my tube. onto fixing that and seeing if i can get a good solid pull.
just did an oil change to non-synthetic oil and new NGK BRK7EKU gapped to .024 instead of .028
dabeetereater
Joined: Jul 2006
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how close is ur air filter to the maf, that will make it run like shit, and try a new cts just for the hell of it, my car used to eat them for lunch all the time
__________________
EuroRat #2+#3
"YEA THOUGH I ROLL THROUGH THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW OF RICE, I WILL FEAR NO TURBO FOR DISPLACEMENT AND TORQUE ART WITH ME... MY RODS AND MY PISTONS THEY COMFORT ME.."
bought not broken!!!
member #2
"having a big turbo is like having a big dick; it's not immediately obvious to everyone, but you have to just rest assured that when it comes time to put it to use, you won't need to explain a whole lot afterwards"
EuroRat #2+#3
"YEA THOUGH I ROLL THROUGH THE VALLEY OF THE SHADOW OF RICE, I WILL FEAR NO TURBO FOR DISPLACEMENT AND TORQUE ART WITH ME... MY RODS AND MY PISTONS THEY COMFORT ME.."
bought not broken!!!
member #2
"having a big turbo is like having a big dick; it's not immediately obvious to everyone, but you have to just rest assured that when it comes time to put it to use, you won't need to explain a whole lot afterwards"
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my air filter is pretty much right on the end of the 4 inch maf housing, so within inches of the sensor, i know the distance i have between the sensor and turbo is good, so you may be right. I just got off the phone with chris from C2 motorsports, I am unsure of how old the version of the Stage 2 #42 software i have is, so I am sending him my ecu to get it retuned, I am going with the Stage 2 RACE file, and having a couple things adjusted. Hopefully that will also clear up any issues!
