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Horsepower ceiling question

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Old May 8, 2009 | 09:45 AM
  #11 (permalink)  
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Valvetrain isnt really effected by boost as much as it is effected by rpms. There are lots of people that run stock valvetrain with BT's up to 8000 rpm all the time with 0 issues. Doesnt mean that its safe, I personally wouldnt even think of going big turbo (which I am) with out upgrading the rods and an atleast doing upgraded springs and retainers. Like Caan said 300whp is plenty for a FWD car, but limiting yourself to that number isnt fun. I'd rather be able to turn the boost knob up if I had to and not worry about the motor taking a shit.
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Last edited by G-Magoo; May 8, 2009 at 09:51 AM.
Old May 8, 2009 | 11:41 AM
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Lots of conflicting information here. Stock head bolts are good for 500whp+, absolutely no reason to go to ARP unless of course you just want to. The rods are the absolute weakest link in the 1.8T, max I would daily drive is 300awhp, 320-330fwhp. With Integrated Engineering drop in rods, everything else OEM, you are good for 450-500whp. Stock valvetrain is good for 7200rpm safely. If you are pushing boost on whatever turbo you decide to run (causing high EGT's), I would consider getting rid of the sodium filled exhaust valves and replacing them with iconel from Supertech or Ferrea. You WILL get valve float around 7800-8k and/or drop an exhaust valve. Some push to 7500 but your getting very near the line.

APR 3+ will run for a ton of miles on a completely stock motor and never have a hickup, absolutely no reason to assume the motor may have internals unless you were told otherwise.
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Old May 8, 2009 | 01:05 PM
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I'm confused. How is information conflicting? You just reiterated what everyone said, but recommended particular brands of your choice... Are you a sales man?
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Old May 8, 2009 | 01:48 PM
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Although he pretty much said what was already said, I will say that the brands that he noted are probably the ones that I would recommend as well and are well known for their quality/price (not adverising).
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Old May 8, 2009 | 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Caan
That's asking a lot from the only thing that connects your piston to your crank.
Technically, it's not the only thing (wrist pins, bearings and rod bolts).

Old May 8, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Caan
I'm confused. How is information conflicting? You just reiterated what everyone said, but recommended particular brands of your choice... Are you a sales man?
Well I read that head bolts are needed to be safe for around 300whp which is completely untrue, stock valvetrain revs to 8k, that sures the hell isnt true, and that 3+ might require a built motor, again untrue. Perhaps I just should have said that everyone that made those comments was wrong?
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Old May 8, 2009 | 08:09 PM
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shawn i knew you would ring in before too long....
Old May 8, 2009 | 09:11 PM
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Perhaps you should have, but you never answered my question... are you a sales man or do you work for a shop?
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Old May 8, 2009 | 09:56 PM
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Fuck dude my heads gonna explode with all this conflicting info!

Unfortunately, the 3+ kit wont fit my TT (No VVT :\) so I'll have to settle for the 3...

Will the stock 5 speed clutch handle a Stage 3 kit or will it turn to a molten puddle of kraut?
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Old May 9, 2009 | 03:37 AM
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I can't say with experience whether or not the stock clutch would hold up but I'm heavily leaning towards no, especially if you're often inclined to use the new found power. If I'm right there's a ton of people willing to sell you you a clutch kit with a name on it, or you can go to Tampa Clutch Supply. Good product and good peoples. Before anyone asks, yes, I have been and am in sales. I sell tacos. I am the taco pimp.
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