Wait...I just realised that...

18 psi?! on stock turbos?! Did I not just link you to a thread about a year old about that?!

Please, do everyone a favor and make that 12 until you can upgrade the turbos and ECU n stuff

 

um, now i'm confused, arent 1J's map, and not MAF? why would you up grade to a 2J map, i thought all of those were Mass air? were the JDm mk4 MAP, or MAF? um, toyota sucks as far as making up its mind as to which intake type it will use, it seems it varies form US to japan, and from year to year. MAF or MAP MAKE UP YOUR DAMN MIND ALREADY!!

 

the JDM 2jz's were MAP and you can upgrade to one of those with 550cc's and its just like doing a lexus and 550cc's on a 7m.

I was just being a smart ass asking why i would use a MAF. I found it comical him telling me to upgraded to a GM MAF.

I very well know the means of the turbos (they freaking suck)....and if they want to overboost being all stock and blow up...go right ahead they would be doing me a favor. I need to get the single on there. Besides no one wants those pieces of crap.
FYI, it only spiked to 15lbs and then i hit a brick wall. Having an open dp should only help the exaust wheels from coming unglued.

andy/agent is whom suggested the ecu will not allow you to boost over 18psi. (or 19, I forget) I will have to test this for myself someday.

 

i wasn't beeing an ass, i just don't really know much about the 1J/2J, thats why i asked. are the JDm 2J's ceramic turbo's also?

 

ohhh, sorry mis-understanding. I meant that to the wise person whom recommended me to use a GM MAF translator.

the 1jz have CT12A's with the creamic glued on exaust wheels
and I think the 2jz's both are CT12B's and they do not blow up as easily but I really have never looked into how much diferently they are designed.

 

Holy shit, I used to have hella respect for you. Time to shut the fuck up! Shut the fuck, UP!!

USDM CT-12b's are metalic. JDM CT-12b's are ceramic.

If you are so much smarter than me, then why would you want to overboost and break your turbos? So you can fucking find some pieces inside your block?! Congradulations, so much for meticulosly watching for details. Then you can piss & moan just to sell the damn car.

 

Then think before posting. Nothing is worse than a 13yr old posting false information thinking he knows what he's talking about.
You must have forgot YOU made the above post. Nothing is more incorrect than your suggestion. I respect the fact how young(and seem to attempt to learn) you are but you make yourself sound like an idiot.

btw, last time I checked they were my turbos...so if i want to blow them up I have every right to. (and since when is stock boost Overboosting?) Are you also going to look at me in shame when I blow up the motor?

 

dude just stop , the day a exaust wheel gets into a motor from the exaust is the day I stop working on cars and go back home to jupiter .

 

yea, jabroni... its STOCK wastegate actuators, STOCK boost lines, NO boost control. allegedly, they run 10psi stock, 12 psi open down pipe... and over 15psi w/ an open down pipe, HKS SMF and a cold night... so piss off Mate.

we arent trying to up the boost, its just happening ok. Before you try to give someone more advice on a car you dont even OWN yet, i would suggest reading ALOT more, cuz thats the only way you can make up for a lack of expereience; learn like its your job. or just spend the night at a Holiday Inn.

and she didnt SAY the CT12B's were NOT ceramic, ever. the CT12b's on the 2JZ that WE got here ,(which is all that should matter in your little world) have metal turbine wheels. the 1JZ (which we NEVER got and only the ELITE have experience with it and young boys will have a hard time even turning a wrench on, let alone driving) has ceramic turbine wheels. on sustained high boost, the heat builds up in the turbine housings and heats up the turbine wheels. Ceramic CANNOT be threaded, so its not screwed/bolted onto the turbine shaft, and the turbine shaft and turbine wheel are NOT one piece like metal turbines are. so the increased heat causes the glue to melt and the wheel comes loose from the shaft. then it comes off and says hello to the turbine housing and shatters into particles and gets blown out the exhaust... not backwards into the manifolds, thru the exhaust ports and past the exhaust valves and down into the cylinders. thats like YOU trying to run back into an N'sync concert after someone yelled "FIRE!" because you forgot your "we love Justin" sign.... just not going to happen when there is a massive exodus of stuff and one jabroni particle is trying to paddle upstream.

"Some mothafucka's are always tryin to paddle up stream"

oh, and take your poorly photochopped 89 mk3 w/ a primer black hood and +43 offset rims and big brake kit with stock ride height outa here.

Hella respect that....

 

I cant see it breaking on the exhaust side only and not affecting the compressor side. Maybe it will, maybe it wont.

I can do what I want with my sig, its MY SIG. Maybe YOU should take out the DSM in YOUR sig since you got rid of it. Its not supposed to be primer, its supposed to be carbon fiber you fuck, and if you cared enough you might search around and found out I have PS5, in which you cant save a pattern such as in PS7 to make it look like carbon fiber. The picture was enlargened about 4x, which is why it looks so bad. The rims and brakes were much better (normal) quality, and its hard to find various angles of a Porsche Ceramic Composite Brake system and put them on. So I fucking made do with it. As far as the rims...well I did my research. Rather then randomly gaying up the internet like I do apparently, I decided to find the lightest rims I could and go from there. Not only are they 17s, which is ~ the ideal diameter between looks and traction, but also weigh a few pounds lighter than stock

I never said stock boost is overboosting, however going crazy with exhaust and little mods here little mods there opens up boost, makes it go up more. Any further than the ~12 or so from full exhaust and I personally would stop. But thats what I would do.

But who cares? I'm 15 and nothing I say or do matters. If I try to suggest something or mention something and make a careless mistake, I dont get the slap on the wrist like everyone else does, I get the flamethrower from hell.

So what DO I know about the 1JZ? Well:

Its a 2491 cc Toyota motor. Head designed by Yamaha, first released ~1990 over in Japan in Mk3, soarer, etc. with a non-interference type dual overhead cammed timing belted setup. out the short exhaust side, a silver dual topped heat sheild covers two CT-12a's, second in a series of 3, only a bit larger in some areas than the CT-12s that came on the older 2.0 I6, the 1G-GTE. Although the first in a series of two, it shares little with the 2JZ other than the occasional piece. About halfway through 90's, they came out with a "3rd gen" version with VVTi and only a single CT-26 turbo. This version still used the R154 that came on turbo Mk3's. Dont know the exact measurement of the bore and stroke, but I do know the stroke is actually shorter than that of the 4A-GE, allowing it to rev to at least 7250 easily. The turbos spool instantly and boost no more than the average stock turbo car from the factory, between 7 and 9.

I didnt cheat, I just knew all that off the top of my head. I've been into this engine for very close to a full year now. And as a matter of fact, I have no intrest in music enough to get rid of the radio as one of my first modifications.