shame on me for buying a brake upgrade

 

Dumbass!

Where you been anyway man? Call me sometime.

 

i'll give you a call later today
holiday shopping=suck

 

factory brakes suck ass on wrxs

ebc is good, if porterfield makes pads for wrxs, id rather go with them.

 

i use the Axxis pads and Stoptech rotors......... pimp tight yo........

 

axxis fucking suck, atleast the metal masters i had did.

 

I thought they where a perfect balance of performance for steet use. I'm curious in what aspect did you find them unsatisfactory?

 

metal masters says it all

 

Zate pretty much has the right idea. although on a 100% street car, id say that a brake fluid upgrade isnt really necessary and just costs more

Oh, and when you bleed the brakes, you need to get about 2 feet of the Clear Tygon tubing used in Fish aquariums. you just put your box end wrench on the bleeder, then put the tubing over the nipple then the other end in a coffee can or something w/ a little splash of clean fluid in the bottom (so it doesnt suck up air). Then you can see when the bubble stop coming out and you can see when the clean clear fluid has made its way thru the system. Ive done it like this by myself before; just put the tube in the container, open the bleeder and pump the brakes slowly. its a breeze!

i went thru the same dilemma when i wanted to find brakes for my supra and the impreza... and i found several things

EBC's suck... ask anyone on Nasioc.com. dont buy EBC unless you have a moutain bike

Axxis suck...(at least the metal masters) they dust like hell.. before you know it, youll have powdercoated wheels, but they wont be shiny.

Stoptech... anything they have are well engineered but arent cheap.

I personally would have recommended Carbotech pads, Endless pads or Porterfield R4S pads.

possibly some Motul 600... but upgraded fluid is unnecessary on a 100% street driven car or even a car that is Solo'd... even on just a track thats is less than 2 minutes long and 3 heats... you could probably get away w/ some nice Dot3 fluid. The only time youd need new fluid or upgraded fluid is if you are running at sebring or something like that... then you definitly would, so that the heat from your brakes doesnt boil your fluid and land you in a tire barrier.

Youre 2 pots are probaby just fine for all that you plan on doing. the 4 pots reduce the front brake bias by about 10% because they have less clamping surface area than the 2 pots... and yea, they wont fit under the stock 16" wheels.

for rotors... slotted rotors are a good choice. the necessity of slotting and x-drilling is always a heated debate. Most beleive that w/ the technology and materiels put into the pads today negate the need for gas slots or holes. outgassing happens then the resin that holds the friction material in the pads begins to burn off, the slots and holes give that gas a place to go. but most beleive that the high quality pads available today wont outgass anywhere near as bad as the low-buck pads of the past. nowadays, i feel, the only thing slotting and drilling does is a few things:
1. removes surface area from the rotor face which reduces the amount of radiant surface area for heat to be disappated; this means the rotors will hold more heat when pushed hard and wont cool down as much as a full-face rotor.
2. removes some amount of structural rigidity from the rotor.
3. removes friction surface which would normally be available to create the brake-torque necessary to slow down the car quickly.
4. creates stress risers and promotes hair-line cracks (x-drilling)

as far as Powerslot brand is concerned... notice they say they dont use Off-shore produced blanks... but that doesnt rule out mexico, which is where they are produced IIRC. in mexico, their standards of quality and material purity arent as high as other companies (Brembo, Porterfield [who uses brembo cores anyways, so ist a moot point], wilwood, stoptech, etc). but, i remember seeing somewhere that the iron used in the powerslot rotors has a higher percentage of mineral contaminants which breaks up the molecular uniformity which results in an over-all, weaker rotor. I was told by Trent at MVPmotorsports in texas that Powerslots and powerstops are the same cores as the ones you buy from autozone, which is what allows them to be such an inexpensive brand.

I personally would have recommended Porterfield rotors, full face, cryogenically treated to relax the molecules and then cadmium plated to prevent surface rust.

a set of Stainless lines is also a good upgrade for better pedal feel and quicker braking response. for good reading, you or anyone else interested in making an educated decision about brakes might wanna read this site:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical/

Here's porterfields website for more info:
http://www.porterfield-brakes.com

hth