EBC Pads and Rotors?
Mouthhugsarenice
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,672
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Originally posted by 722ish
I have also heard plenty of people bitch and moan about the 6 pot wilwoods as they arent what they are cracked up to be..
not knocking ya ryan, just repeating what i read, your brakes look the shit at least 
and hey who wants to stop anyhow?
I have also heard plenty of people bitch and moan about the 6 pot wilwoods as they arent what they are cracked up to be..
not knocking ya ryan, just repeating what i read, your brakes look the shit at least and hey who wants to stop anyhow?
maybe they just don't like them because they are american
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who stole my intercooler?
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The combination of high performance pads in the front and OEM pads in the back can make a very dangerous rear brake bias on the WRX. I'd honestly stick to the same type of pad in the front/rear on as the Impreza seems to touchy with this. You might not notice this until you're in a emergency situation or in a track enviroment.
hawk doesn't make a rear pad tho
i autox my nonWRX subaru quite frequently so yeah, that's why the better pads. the rear end doesn't get upset at all with the current setup.yeah, if you don't ever track the car or drive it real hard there's really no point going with bigger calipers unless you want it too look cool. better pads/fluid/stainless steel brake lines oughta work out nicely, i'd go that route if i were you.
Guest
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Decided to try out the Axxis Ultimate pads with some Power Slot rotors so we'll see how that goes. I've got the SS lines here, left over from when I bought my turbo. I just kept saying I would do brakes soon so I waited on putting them on. Guess now they will finally get taken out of the package.
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Rotors
Heat is the primary cause of ineffective brakes due to fade. There is actually a “boundary layer” of gases that builds up between the pad and rotor surface which inhibits performance. Here’s where Power Slot rotors make a big difference. The exclusive Vac-U-Slots machined into the rotor “wipes” brake pads clean, evacuates gases, and sheds heat. A combination of a “high performance pad” and Power Slot rotors will provide superior reliable braking for virtually all automotive and truck applications, with an upgrade to larger diameter rotors and bigger calipers typically only needed for the most severe competition applications.
Power Slot rotors are manufactured to the highest tolerances keeping SAFETY and quality our number one priority. Slotting, unlike drilling, doesn’t compromise the structural integrity of the rotor. When you drill a rotor you weaken it and cause stress points that can lead to cracking and ultimately failure. Also, drilled rotors lose considerable surface area compared to slotted rotors which means less active braking area for pad to rotor contact.
Stock vs. Slot
Power Slot rotors are made using the highest quality Original Equipment replacement blanks. Competitors will sacrifice quality by using inexpensive off-shore castings. Typically these are made of inferior porous material and often have less cooling fins than their OE counterpart. These fins also serve to reinforce the rotor and guard against warpage. Power Slot rotors always meet and/or exceed all OE specifications. It’s also important to know that the exclusive Vac-U-Slot is tapered to enhance evacuation of heat and gases. All machining is done in house to Power Performance Group’s application specific tolerances to ensure optimum quality control.
The final touch is a military-spec cadmium plating that gives Power Slot rotors their bright silver finish and protects the rotor from the elements. This eliminates rusty rotor syndrome and enhances the look of custom wheels.
Pads
Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads are the newest high-performance brake pad to be introduced into the North American market from The FMP Group, formerly known as Bendix Mintex, in Australia.
They offer the highest level of braking performance in terms of reduced stopping distances, excellent pedal feel and resistance to high temperature fade, they are ideal for high-speed driving and hard braking and are recommended for sports, performance and prestige vehicles.
Heat is the primary cause of ineffective brakes due to fade. There is actually a “boundary layer” of gases that builds up between the pad and rotor surface which inhibits performance. Here’s where Power Slot rotors make a big difference. The exclusive Vac-U-Slots machined into the rotor “wipes” brake pads clean, evacuates gases, and sheds heat. A combination of a “high performance pad” and Power Slot rotors will provide superior reliable braking for virtually all automotive and truck applications, with an upgrade to larger diameter rotors and bigger calipers typically only needed for the most severe competition applications.
Power Slot rotors are manufactured to the highest tolerances keeping SAFETY and quality our number one priority. Slotting, unlike drilling, doesn’t compromise the structural integrity of the rotor. When you drill a rotor you weaken it and cause stress points that can lead to cracking and ultimately failure. Also, drilled rotors lose considerable surface area compared to slotted rotors which means less active braking area for pad to rotor contact.
Stock vs. Slot
Power Slot rotors are made using the highest quality Original Equipment replacement blanks. Competitors will sacrifice quality by using inexpensive off-shore castings. Typically these are made of inferior porous material and often have less cooling fins than their OE counterpart. These fins also serve to reinforce the rotor and guard against warpage. Power Slot rotors always meet and/or exceed all OE specifications. It’s also important to know that the exclusive Vac-U-Slot is tapered to enhance evacuation of heat and gases. All machining is done in house to Power Performance Group’s application specific tolerances to ensure optimum quality control.
The final touch is a military-spec cadmium plating that gives Power Slot rotors their bright silver finish and protects the rotor from the elements. This eliminates rusty rotor syndrome and enhances the look of custom wheels.
Pads
Axxis Ultimate Brake Pads are the newest high-performance brake pad to be introduced into the North American market from The FMP Group, formerly known as Bendix Mintex, in Australia.
They offer the highest level of braking performance in terms of reduced stopping distances, excellent pedal feel and resistance to high temperature fade, they are ideal for high-speed driving and hard braking and are recommended for sports, performance and prestige vehicles.
1337 H4x0r
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 900
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I would say you have yourself a nice little setup picked out that I think you'll be happy with. The one note that i'll add in regards to your selection is that the slotted rotors will be noisey.
I do have a couple of tips based on prior experience with this assuming you're doing the work yourself. If you already have your wallet out I would suggest adding some speed bleeder valves as bleeding the brakes after replacing the brake lines is going to be the most difficult and time consuming part of the job. You need to carefully monitor the brake fluid reservoir and keep it topped off while you are working on the lines and/or bleeding the system as the last thing you want is for the tank to run dry (it's easier than you think to let it run dry and suck in air). You'll need an "flare nut" wrench to break the OEM brake lines loose(you'll have to reseach the correct size, I don't recall off the top of my head). The nuts on the lines are aluminum and will strip like butter with anything less than a flare nut wrench. Lastley I would also suggest some brake noise suppresion goo/fluid to place in between the pad the reused OEM pad backing brackets. I don't know if actually does anything but I used on various pads that where reported to be noisey and never had a peep out of any of them.
One after thought is that if I recall correctly I had to make a slight modification my Goodridge brake lines on the mounting bracket. I don't recall exactly but have dremel tool handy just in case.
I do have a couple of tips based on prior experience with this assuming you're doing the work yourself. If you already have your wallet out I would suggest adding some speed bleeder valves as bleeding the brakes after replacing the brake lines is going to be the most difficult and time consuming part of the job. You need to carefully monitor the brake fluid reservoir and keep it topped off while you are working on the lines and/or bleeding the system as the last thing you want is for the tank to run dry (it's easier than you think to let it run dry and suck in air). You'll need an "flare nut" wrench to break the OEM brake lines loose(you'll have to reseach the correct size, I don't recall off the top of my head). The nuts on the lines are aluminum and will strip like butter with anything less than a flare nut wrench. Lastley I would also suggest some brake noise suppresion goo/fluid to place in between the pad the reused OEM pad backing brackets. I don't know if actually does anything but I used on various pads that where reported to be noisey and never had a peep out of any of them.
One after thought is that if I recall correctly I had to make a slight modification my Goodridge brake lines on the mounting bracket. I don't recall exactly but have dremel tool handy just in case.
Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks for the tips...I'm already looking around to pick up the speed bleeders locally. I'll have Frances to help, but they do sound like a nice addition. I thought about the goo crap and the line wrench as well, just need to stop by the store and grab those.
I'm not to worried about noise from the rotors, I've picked up a few extra noises here and there with other mods. My biggest concern is not draining the system while I install the lines and getting everything bled properly, I've been reading about bleeding an ABS system (yes, it's been a while since I've flushed a brake system) and it sounds like a pain in the ass.
I'm not to worried about noise from the rotors, I've picked up a few extra noises here and there with other mods. My biggest concern is not draining the system while I install the lines and getting everything bled properly, I've been reading about bleeding an ABS system (yes, it's been a while since I've flushed a brake system) and it sounds like a pain in the ass.
1337 H4x0r
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 900
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The fluid won't rush out in a unmangagable rate when you remove the lines so as long as you keep the tank full you should fine. I remember using the red protective caps that came with my new lines to cap off the end removed from caliper while I worked on the end attached to the hardline.
Blingo!?!
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,287
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Originally posted by lstepnio
If you're actually running in track days the upgrade might be a worth while investment but if I'm not mistaken none of the "regular" Subaru technical forums peeps here participate in track days. Events such as 1/4 mile, Solo-I, Solo-II time trials and the ever famous "I might go one day" really don't justify such an expense. Unless of course you're justifying the purchase with the bling-bling factor which is also fine. Just trying to help you guys spend your money wisley.
If you're actually running in track days the upgrade might be a worth while investment but if I'm not mistaken none of the "regular" Subaru technical forums peeps here participate in track days. Events such as 1/4 mile, Solo-I, Solo-II time trials and the ever famous "I might go one day" really don't justify such an expense. Unless of course you're justifying the purchase with the bling-bling factor which is also fine. Just trying to help you guys spend your money wisley.
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danse
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 6,278
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Originally posted by lstepnio
If you're actually running in track days the upgrade might be a worth while investment but if I'm not mistaken none of the "regular" Subaru technical forums peeps here participate in track days. Events such as 1/4 mile, Solo-I, Solo-II time trials and the ever famous "I might go one day" really don't justify such an expense. Unless of course you're justifying the purchase with the bling-bling factor which is also fine. Just trying to help you guys spend your money wisley.
If you're actually running in track days the upgrade might be a worth while investment but if I'm not mistaken none of the "regular" Subaru technical forums peeps here participate in track days. Events such as 1/4 mile, Solo-I, Solo-II time trials and the ever famous "I might go one day" really don't justify such an expense. Unless of course you're justifying the purchase with the bling-bling factor which is also fine. Just trying to help you guys spend your money wisley.
The problem has been circumstances and that this car is still my daily driver. Besides all that, I got a killer deal on the brakes that I was not likely to see again on new parts for a LONG time to come, so I jumped on them and definitely do not regret it in any way, shape or form.
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