it's quicker on a motor to just grind down the higher one. get him back on the road.

 

Grind down the higher one ?

I could see how this would work if you were talking about a Hyd lifter engine. Im talking about a GTIR engine with solids, grinding down the higher one would result in the rocker being parallel to the cam, but leave the lash far off.

And before you say it again, no, non GTIR shims dont work on the GTIR head.

 

no it wouldn't. i'm done trying to explain this to you.



18 adjusts the clearance for 15 to the cam lobe.

the shim & guide combo serves as a purpose only to locate the rocker, and balance it perpendicular with the centerline of the base circle. set the balance by grinding down the higher one. then adjust the screw on the lash adjuster to get the clearance where you want.


and yes, they work.

 

18 Simply tightens down into the head, there is no jamnut to use it as a lash adjuster, it is strictly listed as a pivot.

And no they dont work, when you figure out how to get them to stay put let me know, here is a picture of an actual GTIR head with GTIR valvetrain. Sure if you installed regular valves, or valves from another company, and retainers, then at that point the hyd lifter SR shims and guides would work, the GTIR's shims and guides are more of "lash caps" as they are recessed on the bottom and cup the tip of the valve.

 

somebody did some chinese shit to your head then, every one i've worked has been VASTLY different from that bastard. maybe the japanese had switched them over already? no clue.

 

No, that is an original oe valvetrain setup. Matches the one thats on my friends car, except he now has BC springs/retainers on it. But even with the BC retainers a regular SR shim still wouldnt have a chance at being captive.

What you've worked on has either had the valves replaced with 53J stuff, or aftermarket. Here is a shot of a 53J valve next to 54C you can see the difference in the valve lock location.



Like I said the OEM shims and guides are actual caps that fit over the end of the valve stem, they are both available in different thicknesses and the FSM lists this as the method to adjust the valve lash. The oem pivot is just that, there isnt a jam nut there or it could be used as a lash adjuster, there isnt enough room to add one either unfortunately.

 

holy shit i have no idea what i worked on then. i worked on three gti-r's total, and all three were different. the one that i *THOUGHT* was factory had traditional SR shit, but it had a jam nut adjuster with a collar on the top of it. very good setup.

the others i didn't have to adjust any of it, but they looked the same. my fuckup, that's insane , why the hell do they do that.

well, you've got part numbers, good luck.

 

If they had aftermarket valves etc that would easily explain it, a jam nut adjuster setup like that would be awesome.

From what i've seen the JUN conversion kit actually uses the screw in factory GTIR pivot, along with the retainer spring over the rocket setup from the gtir, if they didnt want so damn much for the set of them i'd be after that.

We ended up shimming it for now using a method I found that people overseas were using, not my number one choice, but it'll work temporarily, and allow us to be damned sure we get the right pieces the first time.

A set of feeler gauges, and a metal hole punch, find out what size is needed, then find a feeler gauge that will work with one of the shims / guides we had on hand, and stamp out a thin shim from the feeler gauge to insert between the valve stem tip and the lash cap/guide.

Thank you again for the part numbers.

 

why do you check the clearance @ the valve as opposed to @ the cam lobe?

 

holy shit that method is ghetto. how long does it last before the shims crack ? lol

that's awesome though.