well, for now i belive i will do a NA-KA build-up.
A few friends and I have affectionatly dub'd the project as NAKA!!

I have a few Q's.

first off i have heard that the SOHC pistons in a DE will raise the compression ratio to something like 11-1, is this true? How sturdy are the SOHC pistons(are they good for that kind of compression?)?
next are the rods; Would it be worth the time and money to cryo treat and shot peen the stock rods or should i just get some forged ones? I would like the bottom end to be "bullet proof".
next up is valvetrain; are the stock valves, springs, and retainers good for this build up? whould 262 cams suffice? or would a custom grind from the likes of crower be better?
ECU stuffs; would swapping to an s13 ecu with a rom-tune be the best bang for buck? can you swap a s13 ecu into a s14?

Thank you in advance for your imput guys and girls.
-Andy

ps. Is there an aftermarket oil pump for the KA?

 

Not going to make enough power to force you into having to spend a lot of money going forged/built motor.

Yeah, the SOHC pistons give 11.1:1 or something real close.

No cams that big are available. Get JWT cams, the biggest at 256 I think.

Get Enthalpy to give you a rom tune.

Get i/h/and big big exhaust.

Hmm 180whp maybe a tad more?

 

^^^NA's like some back pressure so "big big exhaust" might not be optimal.

I have heard that the ka24 rods can be a weak point.
I would be shooting for over 180hp.
the head would be worked over and portmatched to the manifolds. A larger TB would be used also. I would like to have a step tube header.
i would have the crank knife edged, micro polished, and rebalanced along with the rotating assembly.
if I was to get forged pistons I want to know if the ka could do 12-1 or maybe even 12.5-1. NA's can produce more than 100hp per liter, why could'nt the KA(if built properly)?

 

be careful with port matching, the water jackets are close to the ports.. many ka's overheat / blowup / etc when this happens.

they make 280-300hp na ka24s but they only last 800-1000 miles, and rev to 8000-8500 rpm.

are you ready to step up?

 

the money youd spend knife edging and balancing the crank would be almost the same as just buying a lighter billet crank depending on where you go. if youre were to go the billet crank route then just get the whole rotating assembly from one manufacturer and have them balance it in house. dont forget an aluminum flywheel. what are you going to to about bearings? you are going to have to get a pulley kit and a powersteering cooler so you dont break anything. this wont be a daily driver. a dry sump oil system wouldnt hurt, total seal rings, arp head studs and rod bolts, metal head gasket, cooling for water and possibly oil, ignition, and youd might want to look into getting an aftermarket powersteering pump all together. theres a lot of things to consider when you are thinking about a high output na motor cause to make the power its going to have to rev high and the ka is a truck motor.

 

+1. you'll kick yourself in the nuts after comparing your dyno sheet and your total bill.

just.

i/h/e
advance timing
rom tune
light pulley/flywheel
clutch
light 1 pc alum driveshaft
vsld
elec fans
lightweight wheels
s13 cams or jwt cams (jwts are 256* but rated at 275* at a different lift, truely they are only 256*)

and lighten the hell out of your car (pigheavy s14) and hope for the best, as far as straightline acceleration goes.

ka's have the valve train setup (direct contact shim under bucket, no rockers) to rev to high hell but the bore/stroke ratio isnt ideal. rev to ~7300rpm and you'll be okay, maybe 7500 with all the goodie springs/retainers, but be wary of the bottom end.

3" exhaust on NA KA24 motor wont hurt much if at all. most people run them without any big complaints. the low end loss is minimal (if you ignore your innaccurate butt dyno).

ps - thing is, ive seen fully built 11:1 na motors still not put out over 180whp yet. im sure theres one out there but as far as a documented and official setup with numbers, i havnt seen one (not counting sunbelt's motors)

 

problem with high compression like that is the increased chance of detonation or pre-ignition.

if i had to build one, id bore it .020" over, run about 11.5:1 compression, find the longest possible rods i could use, find a flow bench and port the head as best i could, a set of cams that would give good lift, and decent duration, and a little bit less LSA...will kinda give a choppy idle, but would make some top end power while sacrificing some low end power.

 

you need the big cam with the huge static compression so it doesn't have too much dynamic compression at lower rpms where detonation is more prone to occuring.

if you have enough money, you can do anything. remember that.

lim h($)= 100$ = infinity
$->infinity

 

what about a sr20ve in a 240?