Decided to check the codes and see what the ECU has to say.

NOTE: There's an app for Android called Torque that displays ECU readings on your phone in real time. I bought a $30 obd2 bluetooth reader and the app, which was like $5. Next best thing to a data logger IMO.

P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0141: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0120: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit
P0443: Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit
P1105: [Mitsubishi] Fuel Pressure Solenoid.
P0403: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit

Pending Fault Log (not sure what this means, but I'm guessing it's seeing a possible error)
------------------
P0136: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0141: O2 Sensor Heater Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0120: Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/Switch A Circuit
P1400: [Mitsubishi] Manifold Differential Pressure Sensor circuit.
P0443: Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit
P1105: [Mitsubishi] Fuel Pressure Solenoid.
P0403: Exhaust Gas Recirculation Control Circuit

 

Coolant leak found, fixed. BOV recommendation please?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zMhg2sSBFeM

 

is the greddy new or used? u are probly better off useing it, whats wrong with the knock off? u sure u live in fort myers.... lol wish i was there to help

 

the pending log are the code that u are having an issue with its just a history
once u fix those codes and clear the ecu wont be there if u manage to fix the codes
1 thing at a time bro u will get it

clear the codes and history too see what comes up from a fresh start up

put some new o2 sensors in see if those codes disappear
same with the TPS or if u have a working one
clean the EGR with carb cleaner and see if the code comes back
and as for the evap stuff good luck.... if u manage to fix ur EGR it might correct ur evap stuff

 

LOL @ "2.3 stroker...everything else is a fucking mystery"

 

Go with the greddy and recirculate it back into the intake.

 

Dont get new o2 sensors. That code is for the rear o2. Which is basically useless. Bank 1 means cylinder bank 1....you have 4cyl so you know which one that is...lol..and sensor two being the post cat o2 sensor. Since I doubt you plan to run this on a stock ecu/safc/some bullshit there is no sense wasting money on that part. You can simply eliminate it via software.

TPS just probably needs to be calibrated...get at it with a multimeter on the harness side (back probe the connector on pins 2 and 4) and then stick a 0.45mm thick feeler gauge in between the throttle stop and the blade to open it up a tiny bit. Set the TPS voltage to .63V with the ignition on....then verify it swings from ~10-15% to ~100% with the logger.

EGR and EVAP...Def dont waste money there. Just disable via Link/Evo ecu..

 

HAHA, yes...I'm in Fort Myers (well, Cape Coral). So the majority of the codes are gone as soon as I get the dsmlink...deal. The Greddy is used but I think I'd rather use it than the knock off. I wont bother re-circulating the bov air since the dsm link will adjust for this anyway also.

Any of these a possible reason it wont start? Came out of no where. Drove it home from the shop and went to move it a few hours later, nothing.

@Mark, feel free to hit me up if you're around. Sell that talon for me!

 

A bit hard to tell, but it's safe to say that my oil return line and oil feed from the oil filter are leaking. Since I'm down there, going to just re-gasket the oil pan as well. Time to start shopping.

 

Use RTV on the oil pan. It doesnt use a gasket from the factory. I use Permatex Super Black, but you may have your own preference..

What turbo is that again? 20g? Hope you have a restrictor in the oil feed line. Might wanna look into that, especially if its fed from the OFH. Does the motor have balance shafts? Got an oil pressure gauge? Whats it look like if so?