You do not need water lines.
Just let the turbo cool alittle before turning it of.

 

here's my thought, I have a SFP mani with external wastegate(turbonetics 38mm with dump tube), a garrett 57 trim-.63 AR-fully spooled around 3800rpms and flows best around 22psi and up(oil only, stainless steel braided oil line), 3" o2 section, with low miles that I'm thinking about parting with it because a car called EVO is in my near future-lol. Damn trying to cap the water lines and in my opinion you'll be somewhat scared(all mental)to push your turbo to it's full potential.

 

I have no idea why?
That is definitely all mental.

 

Clever. You may not be aware of this, but there are at least 19 dsmtards running 10s or below. I wasn't trying to be an assclown in my original post. Notice that I respectfully disagreed with you. I obviously can't expect the same civility from you.

Congratulations. Try running it for 3 years and see how your turbo likes it. If you run a water-cooled turbo without coolant lines, you will drastically reduce the life of your turbo. This is not to say (as I mentioned before) that you can't run low boost applications, or run the turbo without coolant for short periods. But MHI turbos are built to last for the life of the car, and coolant inlet/outlet/and lines are built into the turbo for a reason.

Yes. Except for your friends who run oil-cooled turbos. Their turbos do not require coolant lines. But I doubt that they are ticketing any time bombs.

So that hot oil is not baking in your turbo.

Either could be possible.

Okay. My point is not to prove you wrong, but to state my (educated) opinion. I wasn't trying to personally attack you, and I apologize if you took it as such. Oil-cooled turbos are meant to run without coolant lines, water-cooled turbos are not.

Why? Because water is a far better coolant than air. The specific heat capacity of atmospheric air is roughly 1.005 joules per gram Kelvin. The specific heat of water is 4.184. Do the math and decide which substance you would want to cool your turbo down. Running your turbo timer for a minute after hard driving will not cool your turbine housing back safe levels from the 1200+ degree temperatures it can reach under heavy boost. So, while there won't be as much oil in your turbo from running at low rpm for a minute, the oil that is there will still bake on your bearings.

That's the best explanation I can give you, without quoting "dsmtards".

 

I would like to first compliment you "4drwhore" on your clever name.

I then would like to thank cavalierchamp for enlightening us as to the difference in the cooling capabilities of air and water. He has proven you dead wrong and you should thank him for potentially saving you a lot of money on your turbo by making a very stupid mistake.


I also wish to comment on the witty "dsmtards" name that you created. That is very funny, and I laughed heartily for many hours. I know many dsmers and retarded is the last word I would use to describe them. Your statement and claims of not needing coolant lines should only be followed by those who wish to run their water cooled turbos for six months or less.

 

Yes I meant water lines.

Cavakid - I don't care how many dsmtards are running 10's. I know of people running 8s with no water lines. Shep doesn't run them, brent rou doesn't run them, marco doesn't run them. Then again maybe you don't recognize some of these people cause these are big dogs in the dsm world. I can also point out quite a few domestics that don't run water lines on turbo's that allow for them that have been doing it for 5+ years with no problems.

I will take more time from them post when I get home from work but you are wrong cavakid, you do NOT have to run water lines on a turbo that allow for it unless it is bb. Ask the people on here who are running 10s with no water lines, and 11s and have been doing it for years and years.

 

Hey turbo teg - come to orlando, i know of about 15 turbo cars that have turbos that allow for water lines and don't run them and have been running for more then 2 years and have never had a problem and would love to race you. Just make sure you run 10s or quicker full street trim. Or you can wait till my car is finished and I'll race you no water lines and all and prove you wrong with REAL WORLD PROOF.

 

im not telling anyone to go out and disconnect their water lines but this is a topic that i agree with 4drwhore on

 

This is apparently an oil-cooled turbo, so it should feel like brand new. We're talking about turbos that have been engineered to run with coolant lines.

The issue here is also one of ambiguity; the OP did not specify what type of turbo he is trying to run, (although I'm assuming it is a stock MHI turbo since he is waiting to put in a 20g). So, why don't we reserve our personal experience evidence to stock MHI turbos meant to run with water lines, not random 50 trims our buddies are running in Apopka.

The only one I had trouble recognizing was Brent Rou, because you misspelled his name. And you are citing the drivers of pro and sem-pro drag cars that see new engines every year. You are also (probably) citing people who drive cars with turbos that don't require water lines. The issue at hand is eliminating water lines from turbos that are built and engineered to run with them.

How do you know this to be a fact? Honestly, I do not know either side to be a "fact". I'm arguing my opinion because I think it is correct, but if you all can provide terrific evidence for your case, I am interested to hear. I find it hard to believe that a 1400 degree turbine housing that is directly connected to a center section full of oil will cool down enough idling for 30 seconds while being cooled only by ambient air inside the engine compartment. If you were going to leave your turbo timer on a two or three minute setting, maybe it would work.

Still, I don't see the huge problem with water lines, and I'd rather leave them connected and run a turbo timer than take a chance at frying a turbo.