looking to upgrade
and when i said weak sleeves , i meant the cylinder walls. cylinder sleeves are in the block, and are where the piston goes up and down.
__________________
K*Squad
Uk spec 99 rhd dc2 integra
MugenPower
K*Squad
Uk spec 99 rhd dc2 integra
MugenPower
Yes when they crack due to the built up pressure in the cylinder they will trash your block.
__________________
if you can only race me in a straight line then whats the point
...91 SMF SCCA
...91 SMF SCCAhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8341770@N07/, on Flickr
I see people out there spending money on the car to improve it … If you spend half that effort just working on your driving skills, making you and the car work together as a team, then you’ll go faster – period. To make the car go a second faster on the track takes a lot more energy and money than making yourself drive it one second faster.
– the late Tom Thrash SCCA Solo E Production
Don't shy away from the b20...the sleeves are NOT as weak as people think. I've seen b20vtecs on 10-15psi of boost with stock sleeves running just fine. Mine is boosted to 7psi and my friends to 8.5psi...mine has seen redline (of 7200) for close to 2 years now everyday and has NO issues.
Don't shy away from the b20...the sleeves are NOT as weak as people think. I've seen b20vtecs on 10-15psi of boost with stock sleeves running just fine. Mine is boosted to 7psi and my friends to 8.5psi...mine has seen redline (of 7200) for close to 2 years now everyday and has NO issues.
i most likely wont race mine alot. so then.. it should last a while and be just fine correct? ive got the stock d16z6 in my car now and its going on 16 years still working perfectly. only 161000 miles on the car. im looking for something with more power and speed but just as reliable.
since you are looking for a good street set up and not interested in racing too much then i would say go for a build/swap that gives you a good amount of low end torque and good mid range.
The LS and B20 are very good for this. And as NAs they are ones that are low maintenance and will last.
On the B20 a little head work, some cams, the right transmission, and a good tune and you'll more than likely be
when you step into the gas.
The LS and B20 are very good for this. And as NAs they are ones that are low maintenance and will last.
On the B20 a little head work, some cams, the right transmission, and a good tune and you'll more than likely be
when you step into the gas.
__________________
if you can only race me in a straight line then whats the point
...91 SMF SCCA
...91 SMF SCCAhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/http://www.flickr.com/photos/8341770@N07/5601083432/ by http://www.flickr.com/people/8341770@N07/, on Flickr
I see people out there spending money on the car to improve it … If you spend half that effort just working on your driving skills, making you and the car work together as a team, then you’ll go faster – period. To make the car go a second faster on the track takes a lot more energy and money than making yourself drive it one second faster.
– the late Tom Thrash SCCA Solo E Production


