Not necessarily moly on the crank counterweights its typically a teflon coating. Helps to shed oil while rotating to reduce any drag, same reason why people run crank scrapers. This can be applied to more than just cranks (i.e. rods, etc). Tbone does really nice work.

 

damn where are these people at, so are you recommendin teflon coating?

 

Only on an extensive build or a race motor. Doesnt sound like you're doing either.

 

^well honestly, I'm going to be running an 85mm low comp boosted LS-Vtec so I think it's pretty extensive, I'm building a tranny with LSD and ls final and new carbon coated synchros of course, but i'll be reving out a 9Krpm and the head is built, just deciding which cams to go with since i'm going boost, so how much more will Ineed to go to need/recommend the crank to be taflon coated. I'll be daily driving this build to! First build like this I have owned to be daily driven that's why I want everything damn near right and i'm trying to take my time and try not to hold back any expense, but we know it's to a certain limit, lol

 

you're going to be revving to 9 on a b20 85mm?

...ok.

 

Please do not do 85mm on a daily driver. Race car, sure. Daily driver, no

 

I'm going to lol. Everyone tries to say dumb things but cars come factory with 300+hp boosted with a 2.4 displacement with a block that is usually 2.0 take for instance the SRT-4, i'm not a fan of it, but anyways you get my drift. I want to keep it below 400hp daily driven. There are many 700+hp daily driven cars. It's all in the part combination, design, and the tunning. Anyways thanks for the interest in my well being, lol, but I want a nasty daily! I've had 350hp dailies before and they lasted a good year, but I had them built wrong so that's why I figured they only lasted a year, lol

 

The SRT-4 is a bad comparison. It is a closed deck block with plenty of meat between the cylinders. I've tuned plenty of 81mm - 85mm setups. There is no reason to go 85mm on a daily driven car. Just giving you some advice on things I have learned over the years. Not from listening to people but actual experience. If you want a responsive setup do an 84mm block, 10:1 compression, DART head and 95mm crank. I made 485whp @ 12lbs on 93 octane and 630whp @ 19lbs on C16 spinning with that setup. Only thing I would add is L19 head studs

 

^it's only one mm more, come on, I have to, I already have the pistons, lol. ALso Alpha, i'm comng to you for a tune unless you'll deny me cause you think my motor will blow, lol. I'll just get a street tune. Where are your prices for tunning?

 

Why would you trust your own instinct over Alpha on this? I think he knows what he's talking about.