LS/VTEC = Mad crazy vtak power!!!

 

u dont need oil squirters...a lot of people plug them up..my lsvtec was all stock internals with arp rod bolts..i mean replace all the gaskets seals and etc
but typically a lsvtec is meant for lowbudget power...using oem parts to make some serious power..the only thing bad in the ls bottom end is the rod bolts.. the rods are perfectly fine..so are the pistons..they are strong enough..so yes i said it once and i will say it again..the most important thing is rod bolts....however dont cut corners and rebuild the bottom end correctly with new rings/bearings/seals but u can use the crank pistons rods without problems..

 

if u really needed oil skwirters than all the ppl building high power ls vtecs would be shit outa luck. the rod bolts are the main thing to worry about when ur freshly built ls vtec is spinning at 8k and beyond. they are smaller than standard vtec bolts and arent really made to stay at 8k all day long. u can use the stock rod bolts as long as the motor doesnt see much abuse (but who builds an ls vtec just to baby it??). so yes, upgrade the rod bolts. u really dont need to replace seals unless the motor has a lot of miles on it. gaskets are important tho. also, to make some even better power using oem parts, get some oem type r pistons pressed onto the ls rods since u gotta put rod bolts in anyways. using stock ls pistons only gets u between 9.5:1 and 9.8:1 (depending on the head u use). also, im not sure about this but i dont think head studs are really necessary either. if the gurus at honda used standard head bolts on their performance motors (aka the type r) i dont c y they wouldnt work on ur ls vtec. as ive said before, some head studs (arp's) have such a high tq spec that the block will evenutally warp. u should really compare the costs and the benifits of buying after market and oem parts before u go and drop top dollar for something that will give u the same end result as something cheaper. point to be made....get rod bolts and gaskets first before u go n buy a buncha other crap. then u kno ur motor will stay together at high rpm.

 

yep what he said ls gearbox is sorry

 

well now he knows that he has many options to go... my theory you go cheap you go twice..

 

+100000 dont cut any corners on this one!

 

gsr unless u got the money to do the ls/vtech right but the ls vtech is gonna make more power all day long

 

and id use jdm b16 pistons (p30) for higher then itr ..or use pr3 which is still higher comp..the p30 pistons with b16 head yield 11.6 dependin on if the heads shaved, usin oem HG etc but roughly in that area..and is good for daily driving on 93octane...i definitely dont recommend going cheap..but i dont recommend using forged internals either..stock oem internals will be strong enough for an all motor app..the only way imo ud need forged is if u plan on high comp + a lot of nos..then ull need better internals and maybe even sleeves...which is way to much money in either route...so id say go the cheapest route for urself..if u can get a gsr shortblock for say 600..or u could get an ls for ? 300..then have to rebuild it..plus use vtec water/oil pump then the gsr would be better/easier/cheaper.. so just figure out your budget and what you HAVE to work with ..

 

its vtec motherfucker,VTAKKKK.

and a properly built ls/vtec will out perform a gsr any day.and I always thought ls pistons couldn't be used because the valves would hit the dome on the top of the piston.

 

just saw some errors i wanted to point out...
1. ls pistons dont have domes.
2. shorter gears dont have anything to do with final drive. anything. and all type r boxes do NOT have the 4.7 final, only 98+ spec JDM integra type r gearboxes do. And they really suck if you ever have to drive on the highway. Put a lsd equipped b16 and a usdm ITR gearbox in the same car, and noone on here would be able to tell the difference. i promise.