LS vtec or GSR
first of all...you already have a ls! why would you spend more money and get a gsr? unless your rich yea go ahead..anyways if i was you i would keep the ls and slap a b16 head on it.
thats because the moron you know or seen that build his doesnt know how to. to succesfully build a ls-vtec that is "reliable" you need to swichout the rods and pistons. shit alteast the rods. hope this helps.
thats because the moron you know or seen that build his doesnt know how to. to succesfully build a ls-vtec that is "reliable" you need to swichout the rods and pistons. shit alteast the rods. hope this helps.
and the moron that said lsvtec doesnt work..i just had a high comp lsvtec no problems beat on DAILY..and now a low comp lsvtec im in the middle of breaking in..no problems..
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LS/VTEC ALL THE WAY...Go with a b16 head, they flow better then b18's aka GSR'S TYPE R'S....Buy the head and purchase a LS/VTEC KIT, comes with damn near everything u need, the extra oil line and what not, after that buy all the new gaskets in the head, and also replce ur REAR MAIN SEAL and HEAD STUDS, your not suppose 2 re-use head studs, go wit arp, qood quality and there inexspensive, Finally find sum1 repitable or a buddy get a case of beer and u can finish it in one day..I have..Hope i help
also, i personally wouldnt go with a b16 tranny, i cant stand the short gears, Stay wit LS/GSR/TYPE R..My opion
you dont even know it urself honestly..the MAIN thing is rod bolts..use arps after that get a vtec water and oil pump..and thats pretty much it as far as reliable goes..i mean definitely rebuild the ls with new rings rod bearings seals gaskets etc..but all u need really is the vtec water oil and the arp rod bolts..and id definitely get the jdm b16a pistons(p30) for high comp lsvtec and they fit on the ls rods NO problem...
and the moron that said lsvtec doesnt work..i just had a high comp lsvtec no problems beat on DAILY..and now a low comp lsvtec im in the middle of breaking in..no problems..
and the moron that said lsvtec doesnt work..i just had a high comp lsvtec no problems beat on DAILY..and now a low comp lsvtec im in the middle of breaking in..no problems..
why did you quote me there? like i said something wrong! i dont know it myself?? wtf you just added a lil bit more to the pie thats all..but dont be saying that i dont know what i'm talking about because i'm not going around spreading info that i'm not sure on like some of the other people on here. so thank you and have a nice day.
you dont even know it urself honestly..the MAIN thing is rod bolts..use arps after that get a vtec water and oil pump..and thats pretty much it as far as reliable goes..i mean definitely rebuild the ls with new rings rod bearings seals gaskets etc..but all u need really is the vtec water oil and the arp rod bolts..and id definitely get the jdm b16a pistons(p30) for high comp lsvtec and they fit on the ls rods NO problem...
and the moron that said lsvtec doesnt work..i just had a high comp lsvtec no problems beat on DAILY..and now a low comp lsvtec im in the middle of breaking in..no problems..
and the moron that said lsvtec doesnt work..i just had a high comp lsvtec no problems beat on DAILY..and now a low comp lsvtec im in the middle of breaking in..no problems..
LOL.. well you said you only need arp rod bolts.. well if you want to go the cheap way yes.. but going to say that your not going to have oil squirters,, i would rather run forge internals//?/. just me though.. thats how we did my buddys ls-v. AND IT RUNS LIKE A CHAMP.!
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Last edited by FC_V8; Jun 9, 2007 at 05:20 AM.
HondaHouse built a Ls-Vtec for one of our friends, its going on almost 40k miles daily driven, running really strong.
Average cost on doing an ls vtec set up.. I am looking into the same thing. I have a 99 ls b18b right now with 100k.. What can I expect to pay for this.. I Can do average stuff but swapping pistons ect. I dont think ill attempt.
LS/VTEC ALL THE WAY...Go with a b16 head, they flow better then b18's aka GSR'S TYPE R'S....Buy the head and purchase a LS/VTEC KIT, comes with damn near everything u need, the extra oil line and what not, after that buy all the new gaskets in the head, and also replce ur REAR MAIN SEAL and HEAD STUDS, your not suppose 2 re-use head studs, go wit arp, qood quality and there inexspensive, Finally find sum1 repitable or a buddy get a case of beer and u can finish it in one day..I have..Hope i help
o yea one more thing. the type r tranny has shorter gears than the b16 thanks to a 4.7 final drive. next time do some research before you give some advice. if you dont know the difference in honda parts then u shouldnt be recommending what to use.
for the record. the b16 heads and type r heads are from the same casting. the gsr is not. the type r head will flow better bc its been slightly ported/polished from the factory. and while the common myth is that a b16 head flows WAY better than a gsr head, the truth is that both heads flow about the same had have their various advantages in flow at certain points of lift. also, type r trannys have 4.7 final drives, thus giving them shorter gears than the b16 tranny which has a 4.4 final drive. the shorter gears of the type r tranny will definately wake the car up as opposed to a b16 tranny. u can buy a gsr tranny and install the 4.7 final drive to get some what of the same gear ratios. hope this helped clear some stuff up.
well ur right on some things. dont re use head studs and get the golden eagle conversion kit and new gaskets. however, i wouldnt use arp studs. the tourque specs on the arp studs are WAY over stock specs. this high tq spec will eventually cause warpage in the block around the stud. golden eagle studs are the way to go bc they have a reasonable tq spec. also, a type r head will outflow a b16 head all day. AND, if you have ever done ur research you would know that the smaller combustion chamber of the gsr head will make slightly more power than the small advantage in flow of the b16. (VTEC +more compression = good power) ive seen the flow charts and both heads flow about the same. the type r head flows the best bc its been worked on from the factory.
o yea one more thing. the type r tranny has shorter gears than the b16 thanks to a 4.7 final drive. next time do some research before you give some advice. if you dont know the difference in honda parts then u shouldnt be recommending what to use.
for the record. the b16 heads and type r heads are from the same casting. the gsr is not. the type r head will flow better bc its been slightly ported/polished from the factory. and while the common myth is that a b16 head flows WAY better than a gsr head, the truth is that both heads flow about the same had have their various advantages in flow at certain points of lift. also, type r trannys have 4.7 final drives, thus giving them shorter gears than the b16 tranny which has a 4.4 final drive. the shorter gears of the type r tranny will definately wake the car up as opposed to a b16 tranny. u can buy a gsr tranny and install the 4.7 final drive to get some what of the same gear ratios. hope this helped clear some stuff up.
o yea one more thing. the type r tranny has shorter gears than the b16 thanks to a 4.7 final drive. next time do some research before you give some advice. if you dont know the difference in honda parts then u shouldnt be recommending what to use.
for the record. the b16 heads and type r heads are from the same casting. the gsr is not. the type r head will flow better bc its been slightly ported/polished from the factory. and while the common myth is that a b16 head flows WAY better than a gsr head, the truth is that both heads flow about the same had have their various advantages in flow at certain points of lift. also, type r trannys have 4.7 final drives, thus giving them shorter gears than the b16 tranny which has a 4.4 final drive. the shorter gears of the type r tranny will definately wake the car up as opposed to a b16 tranny. u can buy a gsr tranny and install the 4.7 final drive to get some what of the same gear ratios. hope this helped clear some stuff up.




