another missfire problem!
have you tried a noid light to test each injector is firing. I had one that was doing that. the noid light stayed lit the whole time on one of the cylinders. it ended up being corrosion in the ecu around the legs of the transistors that fire the injectors. I de soldered and cleaned all of them and re soldered. fixed problem. you can buy noid lights at advance I think. its a kit with several for different vehicles. you unplug the injector and plug the light into the socket it will blink when you turn the motor over if all is good. it was the number 6 cyl that did it too. it drove me fuckin crazy. it must have drove a couple other people crazy too, I bought the car on here for like 850.00 and they had put a bunch of parts on it trying to solve the problem.
Last edited by barry bledsoe; Jan 3, 2010 at 04:09 PM.
tested the fuel pressure at idle with vaccum line disconnected and it put out 42 psi.i did put a set of new plugs in it and i swapped over a another ecu to test it.after all this it ran the same.i unplugged injectors while it was running (the ones i could reach.it made the car run rough with each one i unhooked,but that is only at idle.the car idles great,just when you put a load against the motor is when it acts up.
Maybe if EFI was less reliable, and required regular maintenance, people would finally get enough experience working on it, that it would become accepted. Fortunately until then, we will always have the carburetor to fill that void.
Seriously though, does the car just have a miss under load, or is it a sputter? Vacuum leak symptoms are most noticeable at idle, and gradually go away with more load (usually). Additionally, speed density cars are less vulnerable to vacuum leak symptoms. Things that get worse with load are usually ignition related. Swapping in a friends coil is a simple test. If a coil is not readily available, you can try reducing your spark plug gap (maybe ~.025) to see if that influences the problem.
Also, take a lesson from 95cobrasvt. Make sure your plug wires are sequenced correctly. Not even a carburetor will fix that.
Brian
EFI-Unlimited

Seriously though, does the car just have a miss under load, or is it a sputter? Vacuum leak symptoms are most noticeable at idle, and gradually go away with more load (usually). Additionally, speed density cars are less vulnerable to vacuum leak symptoms. Things that get worse with load are usually ignition related. Swapping in a friends coil is a simple test. If a coil is not readily available, you can try reducing your spark plug gap (maybe ~.025) to see if that influences the problem.
Also, take a lesson from 95cobrasvt. Make sure your plug wires are sequenced correctly. Not even a carburetor will fix that.
Brian
EFI-Unlimited
Last edited by EFI-Unlimited; Jan 3, 2010 at 09:03 PM.




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