Tommy, my prop valve has that little rubber plug you are referring to also. I had read that some valve have a reset button on them but that doesn't seem to be the case here.

Where did you find a new one? Both Autozone and Advance don't even have a listing for the 96 V6 cars and of course Napa is closed.

 

Chris' car was leaking and I pulled the gutted one of my car and he is running my old gutted one. I have an adjustable one for my rears so I didnt need it.

 

I guess I replied before I refreshed my browser.

I think Tommy hit the nail on the head. I am running the prop valve that came with the MC. I think the problem may be that the Mark 7 rear calipers are bigger than the SN95 ones and may therefore need a different bias setting requiring a manual valve which fortunately I have a Wilwood unit.
I added an 1/8" shim to the spring in the existing prop valve to hopefully swing the bias back to the front some but as it is Monsooning again the real world testing will have to wait till tomorrow.

Thanks all.

 

If you go real fast you can out run the rain

 

I'm sure you know, but I installed mine were the factory residual valve was. Fits perfect with no modifications of the lines. Just chunk the residual

 

Hmm ok. I will have to do some flaring on mine since the 96 MC lines have bubble flares on them. Unless....I may be able to get some adapters from bubble flare to 3/8NPT.
Try again tomorrow.

 

The residual...if still there its almost to the pass. side were the brake lines run along the firewall just below the hood

 

Ahh yes the union fitting on the firewall. None of those lines are there on the firewall anymore as I installed the 96 metal brake lines. The right front brake line goes from the prop valve down under the radiator support and under the frame rail to the rubber hose bracket behind the strut.
The rear line now exits the prop valve and runs along the drivers subframe all the way to the rear center hose.
Most likely the prop valve will lose its guts tomorrow and the manual valve will find its way inline somewhere under the master cylinder.

 

Gotcha

 

When you were messin' with this on other cars, did it seem as though the front brakes were getting a lot less pressure than the rears? That's how this one is acting. It stops straight but the pedal goes down about an inch and a half before any real stopping force is noticed. Any more pedal force than that and the rears lock.

I guess what I am trying to figure out is whether or not the front to rear bias issue is causing the somewhat low pedal even with the car sitting still. If not then I must still have air somewhere but I haven't a clue where it could be unless there is a bleed procedure specifically for the line-lock that I don't know about.
If the reman MC was bad the only symptom of that would be the pedal drifting down right?