LOL I heard that. I'm so farking bored right now....Here I sit..so bored I can't even shit. If not for you, I might be able to eat my food! LOL

I know...I fail....LOL

 

wow i forgot about this whole thing. but money and time dont seem to be on my side right now so i guess i wont have no suprise for you guys at the event.

 

let me put it this way man. turbo will sit and idle smooth as a babies izzass all day long. and you can run like 15lb's all day, if your smart you'll go and buy the ebay exhaust kit for like 400, or the whole kit for like 900.

and if you invest in the internals like you'll need to on serious spray you'll go in the 600+hp range on 15-20lb's and cam...

imho nitrous is like being married to a hooker that you still have to pay for sex lol.

turbo is higher $$ up front but WAY easier on your car off the line(track) and comes on smooth, easy, and doesnt try to burn holes in your investment over time lol.

also you can run 8psi and get good mpg and idle in traffic all day, then hit the track at 25lb's and run 650-750whp.

hands down turbo. you never see turbo cars blow the tires off the line!
and they're always the smoothest/fastest!

~turbo tyler
(aka v-tec stang)

 

Tyler,
I have never blown the tires off the line....Except when I was running street tires. But then again, I did that BEFORE the nitrous. I've never EVER broken anything on my motor or my car due to the nitrous. I hooked up the kit the way the instructions said to. (immagine that...following directions ACTUALLY paid off) Yeah, it costs me to refill the bottle when I run out....But, with a little attention to detail, you won't have issues with running out. And if you really go through THAT much nitrous, then you could just as easily purchase a back up bottle. Plus, the nitrous can be removed just as easily as it was installed, in case you decide to sell the car. Then, you get to KEEP the kit, and guess what? It works on the next car you buy...Try that with a turbo kit. Unless you buy the same kind of car, it aint gonna work. If you stay below 125 hp on the bottle, then you won't have a problem with burning up pistons (provided you follow the directions). If, however, you decide that you (or your engine builder decides) that you (or they) know better than NOS, then you will have issues...Of course, this advise is still true for a turbo kit also.

Now, if you have the ability to produce 125 extra hp from the start of the race all the way through to the end of the race, wouldn't you want to do that, instead of producing 25 extra hp for the first 30 ft, then an extra 75 hp for the next 60 ft and THEN producing the extra 125 hp the rest of the way down the track while the turbo spools up? I know I would (and do).

Yeah, if you have the wrong tires, then you will go up in tire smoke. DUH! Don't want to go up in tire smoke? Then get sticky tires. Spend the extra $300 for them...You're gonna need it anyway. If you can't blow the tires off the car WITHOUT the nitrous or turbo, then you have issues anyway, and will likely only put out 300 rwhp even WITH a turbo or nitrous.

Yeah, the turbo comes in softer. DUH! But if you have an extra $200, you can get a progressive controller which will allow you to do the same thing with the nitrous. Plus, to me, if you have the tires to hold up to it, and you are not using them to hook up....Then you wasted your money on tires.

 

Both. Anything else and you're a pussy.

 

well if thats the case then you can donate to the broke joke fund and we can race the stang for the other guy's girl lol.

 

umm on a big turbo turning up boost 3lb's is 65whp so i can run you at 6psi and you no bottle, not costing either of us money and say we run dead even, you throw on the 125 shot and i turn up the boost to...13-14psi and we're still dead even (horse power wise) BUT it costs you a fill up on a bottle every now and again. THEN i go from 14psi to 20psi without and engine worries and no price or time to swap jetting, screw with the bottle pressure and opening speeds and all that and blow your doors off.

i know what your saying though.
btw my boost cars headgasket is rated at 22psi safely STOCK and the block and crank is good for 800+WHP factory stock, pistons and rods are at 450whp

so that on spray vs. that on turbo... yeah...

bottom line there both nasty and fun, but nitrous is a pocket stalking money eating monster and turbo's just arent.
oh and other then a turbo header you could keep and run your entire turbo set up.

 

Again, only if you run the same kind of car/engine set up. So, if you wreck the car, sell the car, or give the car to your kid...whatever you do with it, you get rid of the car, yet want to keep the turbo kit, you will have to get the same type of car and engine combo. Or you will have to buy more parts. Not so with the nitrous kits. If you run a dry kit, you can run a dry kit on ANY FI car. It doesn't matter if it's a dodge neon, or a 09 Mustang. You can hook it up. Hell, you can even hook it up on a Honda with a B-18 engine. (Do those exist? I honestly wouldn't know) If you have a carbed kit, the only thing you need to be consience of is whether it's a spread bore or square bore carb/intake combo. Of course, with some MINOR parts gathering, you can even convert the carb kit to a dry kit. (I know because I've done it) Try that with a turbo kit.

 

I've never heard anyone say that nitrous cost more than a turbo . They are both high maintenance . The turbo cost way more just to put on the car , and juice is a matter of bottle filling and the parts to handle it , but I have seen a 210 shot on a STOCK short blocked 302 . Only thing wasn't stock were the 289 heads and the cam.With a stock converter ( wich everyone says can't be done ) ran high 6 at Lakeland . The whole engine , fuel system , and nitrous kit cost less than a turbo kit . Like I said , they're both high maintenance but I think the juice is way more cost effective . Cheapest horsepower there is

 

up front nitrous is cheaper. but over time it could cost more. but good nitrous kits can cost alot.