Engine Bay Smoothing...
Still wouldn't be beneficial as I don't have a dadgum welder 
And as far as aluminim interior... I've already got the rear bulkhead and that's about the extent of tin on the interior (I've got almost all the stock interior to put back into the car) - but I'm thinking I may go with the door panels if I can't find a nice set later (black or black/grey)... But my interests on that site more pertain to under-hood & trunk...
Fender Panels ($95/pair):

Firewall Cover w/o stock holes ($30):

Trunk Floor Liner ($70):

Solves SEVERAL of my "goals" for right about $250 shipped

And as far as aluminim interior... I've already got the rear bulkhead and that's about the extent of tin on the interior (I've got almost all the stock interior to put back into the car) - but I'm thinking I may go with the door panels if I can't find a nice set later (black or black/grey)... But my interests on that site more pertain to under-hood & trunk...
Fender Panels ($95/pair):

Firewall Cover w/o stock holes ($30):

Trunk Floor Liner ($70):

Solves SEVERAL of my "goals" for right about $250 shipped
I bought my panels from a guy on Corral, they were actually for a SN95 but plenty of people modified them to put into their fox. The problems with those aluminum peices is having to tig those in. A mig would burn right through. And speaking of, how thick are they? They do look sharp.
__________________
Ryan
1990 Mustang GT (In Process)
1993 LX Coupe (Daily Driver, but just choose not to)
2005 Excursion (Big Pig)
Ryan
1990 Mustang GT (In Process)
1993 LX Coupe (Daily Driver, but just choose not to)
2005 Excursion (Big Pig)
We have developed different kits for the Fox Body and New Generation Mustangs. The nice thing about our kits is that no modifications are needed to stock interior trim or to stock sheet metal. All panels are made from .040” aluminum, and are bead rolled and stepped for strength, making them a quality piece that will stand up to the rigors of drag racing week in and week out.
I was looking at those pics, and they look to be riveted on. And hell yeah you can tig aluminum to mild steel. You can mig aluminum too, but current control and wire thickness are seriously vital.
__________________
Ryan
1990 Mustang GT (In Process)
1993 LX Coupe (Daily Driver, but just choose not to)
2005 Excursion (Big Pig)
Ryan
1990 Mustang GT (In Process)
1993 LX Coupe (Daily Driver, but just choose not to)
2005 Excursion (Big Pig)
Ill look into this process, pretty interesting
Last edited by GNs-r-slow; Nov 9, 2008 at 03:28 AM.
I am not the smartest cookie.. but unless I missed something in class.
Aluminum + M.S. = X. Aluminum and steel have completely different welding temps and use different currents for the processes.
Rivots pretty much the best way to go with mixing those to. Aluminum can be welded with mig.. but a spool gun is the way to go and that increases cost, and precision is still not there.
JP, I will teach you all I know... but need a welding machine... If you/we do not plan on welding any aluminum, we can pick up a TIG machine relatively cheap. Add in the ability to weld aluminum and cost greatly increases, add in the ability to weld 3/8 or thicker aluminum and cost goes up again. Wish we were closer, we could tackle all these issues and take on that roof issue.
Aluminum + M.S. = X. Aluminum and steel have completely different welding temps and use different currents for the processes.
Rivots pretty much the best way to go with mixing those to. Aluminum can be welded with mig.. but a spool gun is the way to go and that increases cost, and precision is still not there.
JP, I will teach you all I know... but need a welding machine... If you/we do not plan on welding any aluminum, we can pick up a TIG machine relatively cheap. Add in the ability to weld aluminum and cost greatly increases, add in the ability to weld 3/8 or thicker aluminum and cost goes up again. Wish we were closer, we could tackle all these issues and take on that roof issue.



@ JB Weld