stroker advise...
I with Scott on that. Cast Crank is were they are skimimping. Stay away from them!!!!
I'm going to call them and see if I can upgrade to a forged crank....yeah like i was saying Scott.......there is always some part they scrimp on to make the price attractive.thx guys.
First things first, what are your plans?
You could go with Nodular Iron (stock)
Cast Steel (better, and would probably be fine in 75% of the street builds)
Forged 4340
The forged will handle 1000HP+, the cast will handle 600 all day long.
The price difference between the forged and the cast steel isn't much, so i'd go with the Forged but for a street car it's not needed. You'll probably split the block before do you anything to a cast steel crank anyway.
As to the kits, I went with a Probe Industries Forged kit, spun it to 7500+ NA a TON of times for the Street Bandit motor making over 600HP. Tore it down and had no problems, only had an issue with a bad bearing after we rebuilt it, components were fine.
Kit was forged pistons with tool steel pins and spirolocks
forged H beam rods (6.250)
Forged Crank
Couple of things:
you piece together a kit and you'll have to pay to get it all balanced, out goes the minimum $ that you just saved if you saved any at all.
You have one neck to wring if there are any issues, vs. going to each manufacturer and playing the finger pointing game.
just my past experiences for whatever they count for.
sorry for the long winded note.
You could go with Nodular Iron (stock)
Cast Steel (better, and would probably be fine in 75% of the street builds)
Forged 4340
The forged will handle 1000HP+, the cast will handle 600 all day long.
The price difference between the forged and the cast steel isn't much, so i'd go with the Forged but for a street car it's not needed. You'll probably split the block before do you anything to a cast steel crank anyway.
As to the kits, I went with a Probe Industries Forged kit, spun it to 7500+ NA a TON of times for the Street Bandit motor making over 600HP. Tore it down and had no problems, only had an issue with a bad bearing after we rebuilt it, components were fine.
Kit was forged pistons with tool steel pins and spirolocks
forged H beam rods (6.250)
Forged Crank
Couple of things:
you piece together a kit and you'll have to pay to get it all balanced, out goes the minimum $ that you just saved if you saved any at all.
You have one neck to wring if there are any issues, vs. going to each manufacturer and playing the finger pointing game.
just my past experiences for whatever they count for.
sorry for the long winded note.
__________________
I am your penalty.....
I am your penalty.....
call me pat and i can help u out
chad'
813-784-8248
p.s. if you talk to stewey ell him i will be at my shop tomorrow night if he wants to grab the rack and bushings ..
chad'
813-784-8248
p.s. if you talk to stewey ell him i will be at my shop tomorrow night if he wants to grab the rack and bushings ..
__________________

www.racinginnovationsfl.com
www.xsrcylinderheads.com
4.842@156 and 7.53@192 on radials

www.racinginnovationsfl.com
www.xsrcylinderheads.com
4.842@156 and 7.53@192 on radials
What do you plan to achieve (and how?) with this motor?
__________________
"Congressmen who willfuly take actions during wartime that damage morale and undermine the military are saboteurs and should be arrested, exiled or hanged".
President Abraham Lincoln
"Congressmen who willfuly take actions during wartime that damage morale and undermine the military are saboteurs and should be arrested, exiled or hanged".
President Abraham Lincoln
First things first, what are your plans?
You could go with Nodular Iron (stock)
Cast Steel (better, and would probably be fine in 75% of the street builds)
Forged 4340
The forged will handle 1000HP+, the cast will handle 600 all day long.
The price difference between the forged and the cast steel isn't much, so i'd go with the Forged but for a street car it's not needed. You'll probably split the block before do you anything to a cast steel crank anyway.
As to the kits, I went with a Probe Industries Forged kit, spun it to 7500+ NA a TON of times for the Street Bandit motor making over 600HP. Tore it down and had no problems, only had an issue with a bad bearing after we rebuilt it, components were fine.
Kit was forged pistons with tool steel pins and spirolocks
forged H beam rods (6.250)
Forged Crank
Couple of things:
you piece together a kit and you'll have to pay to get it all balanced, out goes the minimum $ that you just saved if you saved any at all.
You have one neck to wring if there are any issues, vs. going to each manufacturer and playing the finger pointing game.
just my past experiences for whatever they count for.
sorry for the long winded note.
You could go with Nodular Iron (stock)
Cast Steel (better, and would probably be fine in 75% of the street builds)
Forged 4340
The forged will handle 1000HP+, the cast will handle 600 all day long.
The price difference between the forged and the cast steel isn't much, so i'd go with the Forged but for a street car it's not needed. You'll probably split the block before do you anything to a cast steel crank anyway.
As to the kits, I went with a Probe Industries Forged kit, spun it to 7500+ NA a TON of times for the Street Bandit motor making over 600HP. Tore it down and had no problems, only had an issue with a bad bearing after we rebuilt it, components were fine.
Kit was forged pistons with tool steel pins and spirolocks
forged H beam rods (6.250)
Forged Crank
Couple of things:
you piece together a kit and you'll have to pay to get it all balanced, out goes the minimum $ that you just saved if you saved any at all.
You have one neck to wring if there are any issues, vs. going to each manufacturer and playing the finger pointing game.
just my past experiences for whatever they count for.
sorry for the long winded note.



...you're not going to need a turbo!
