Right!! Google is you're friend! Dont make statements the "this" is the only difference, when its not true. I was just pointing out the obvious and a relevant detail. Oh and I had a great night getting "bad" prople out of jail!! They are now out of jail and coming to a neighborhood near you!!!

 

Thats pretty kick ass.
Then I will share everything I come across and hopefully we can help each other out.

LS3 heads flow alot better than the 317 castings I'm using. With the right cam and intake set up you will absolutely annihilate me. From what I understand its like comparing AFR 185 heads to 225 heads. I asked about them in LS1 tech. They arent that hard to get ahold of either but I had already bought the intake and its meant for the cathedral port heads not the rectangular port like your planning on. The good thing is that with the 6.0's 4" bore we do have the choice of using the best Gen 3 heads or moving up to Gen 4 heads.

As far as the difference between the rods (And I double checked so I dont put out any wrong info here) is that the early LQ4's up till 04 all had pressed pins and 05 and later LQ4 and all LQ9's have full floating pins. I'm repeating all of this from people I have spoken with who build these engines and from posts on LS1tech. According to them with the 6.0 it doesnt matter if the rods are pressed or full floaters. The full floating pins are traditionally supposed to be able to withstand more RPM. EVERYONE I have talked to on the subject says if you plan to run high RPM's to just use ARP on the end caps and you shouldnt have any problems. They said they have never heard of anyone having problems with the pressed pins at high rpm. So I apologize for omitting that tid bit,.. but I'm still of the opinion that its an irrelevant fact considering neither shortblock can hold more HP (Or RPM) than the other with out issues. Its like comparing a stock 302 shortblock to a fully forged 302 factory block. The factory block will take a shit long before either rotating assembly does.

And sorry my car is holding up the works,.. but I asked him about painting my car back in Nov. Even though I didnt get it to him until Jan. It was a lot of work getting the car stripped and ready for him to paint. He told me when I dropped it off he figured maybe the end of March. I figured early April. But with other issues that have come up,.. I'm guessing late April. Which is ok with me,.. I'm in no real hurry. It gives me time to port these heads and detail the piss out of the engine to get it ready to drop in when I get my car back.

You should post up and at least get some details out there. I think its bad ass that you are doing one too.
What k-member and tranny are you planning to use?
Sounds like you will have one bad ass ride for sure. Mine is going to serve daily driver duty so there is only so much I can do. The suspension will be targeted toward handling with stiffer coil overs all the way around, torq bar and panhard bar on the back as well. That is more for my wife than me. If I had my way it would be sitting 2 inches higher with big and littles on the car LOL. She wants to run the car at Sebring and different Auto-X courses so its up to me to make sure it can do that safely. At the moment I still have drums on the rear. I will be flushing out the system and going with a DOT5 synthetic fluid. Hopefully the 13" Cobra calipers and ceramic pads will be enough. They came from her 96 Cobra and that car did very well on the road course. She could run lap after lap and never complained about brake fade so hopefully the lack of disks on the rear doesnt compromise it on the road course or I will definitely be swapping discs to the rear.

Give me a call if you run into any problems. If I cant help, everyone I know runs Chevy motors. I'm the black sheep among my family and friends running a Ford. So I can definitely get you in touch with someone who can help you.

Hurst

 

Not trying to be a dick Thomas,.. but may I ask why you think its relevant?

And thank you making the world that much better. Ever since the property values have plummeted in my 'hood' there have been several 'unsavory' families that have moved in. Another moved in just 3 days ago. My wife made the comment that we are being encircled. And I dont mean any of this in a racist way. But when the father, uncle and the kids are all walking in the middle of the street (Do they not have sidewalks in the ghettos anymore?) with their pants hanging off their asses it shows their mindset in my opinion. I keep my rottie out in the back yard at night now just in case. We have plans to move out to Orlando as soon as my son graduates. The good thing is that I can sell my house for $85k - $100k and still clear $55k - $80k. With the way things are going I doubt the property values around here will go up anytime soon. I cant wait to get out of here.

And you really should turn your browsers spell check on. It will underline typos and misspelled words as you are typing.

Hurst

 

Yeah I spent like 6 months straight just creeping around LS1tech reading everything lol. I'll be running the AJE K member and LS mounts with the F-body oil pan, TH400 with a 4K yank and AJE trans mount. The reason I decided to go with the LS3 heads is how affordable they are, and the potential they support. I'll be using the GM CNC LS3 heads since they are competively price compared to every other LS head on the market. I also plan on using the 418ci Callies/Wiseco rotating assembly since its the same ammount for that as it is for a 402/408 ect. package and only makes sense to go bigger for the same money. Initial plans were to run a mildly stock LQ4, but honestly I wanna spend all the money at once instead of gradually building into it and spending more money along the way. With all the parts I have laying around from previous chevy projects It will pay for the rotating assembly, I just gotta get off my ass and put it on ebay lol. Don't worry about apologizing Hurst, I'm not complaining about the time it takes to properly paint your car, I like the fact that Bryan treats each car like its his own. It gives me a sense of confidence knowing my car will be in good hands. If all goes as planned it will be sprayed in GM's Atomic Orange.

Anyway, With ARP rod bolts you have to have the rod threads resized, If thats not a concern go for it, if it is for you then run the Katech rod bolts.

 

I've got the AJE K-member as well but finally going to run this sweet TKO thats been in my closet for almost 3 years LOL
Best thing is that I dont have to swap over to a hydraulic clutch to use it behind the 6.0. Using a Lakewood swap bell so I can use the Ford TKO.

I was originally going to go with Beryllium orange 2 tone with a Titanium Frost lower half.
Similar to this color combo


I've never seen another car like it. I photoshopped the color in the pic.
But since you and Dr Dirt are both going orange I decided to do 04 Cobra Sonic blue instead. Similar to the color in my sig.

I'm not sure how I will do the bottom end later. I do want to stroke it later down the road after my wife gets her own car. But anything can happen between now and then. I've always wanted to do a turbo motor as well so who knows what direction I go in.

As for this motor right now, other than some really minor head porting by me the long block will stay stock. I have no plans to spin this motor beyond 6000 RPM. The cam and torq curve will all be over by 6200 so no real point. It should be fine for now. It will be at least a year or 2 before I pull it back out to build it.

Hurst

 

Look at ANY hp build that is worth talking about, and they use floating pins...anyone that has any sense will tell you they free up power and will withstand more power than a pressed pin especially being "built" from factory with floating pins (more meat). Most doing a moderate build will bore and bush the small in for floating pins on a stock rod, which removes material and potentially creating a weaker spot.

 

Thats not the story I'm getting from LSx guys Tommy.
Those doing all out race motors yes. But those using stock bottom ends say it doesnt matter.

All of the 'HO' or 'performance' LSx engines do have floating pins from the factory. And I do understand the reasoning which goes back as far I can remember. Any high rpm performance build must have floating pins or risk a pin walking out at high rpm damaging the engine. But I digress. There are 600 - 650 HP LQ4's out there doing just fine with pressed pins.

Go lurk around LS1tech and you'll see where I am coming from.


Hurst

 

If you want light weight and reliable put a 231 GN motor in the Mustang. You can get 200K miles out of a GN motor. and 400 HP is easy with a roller cam and set of aluminum heads at low boost on a V6.

back under my rock

 

There are several of hardcore GN guys jumping that ship...and going the LSX route

 

All i keep reading was 400 hp and last 100k miles

Once you want 600+hp, it's a different game then the LS motor is the option

Old saying there is no replacement for displacement

Coming from the guy with a turbo Stang