You mean to tell me you couldnt pick up a 2v PI 4.6 and make 400hp for under $3000? I know I could do it right now. I had approx $1100 into my 96 GT and it was making 292 at the wheels. It was cams and a nitrous kit away from 400hp. 4.6 motors are dime a dozen these days.

No its not 400 anytime hp. But then for the money spent on the Coyote swap,.. can you honestly say you couldnt have done a 427w swap? I had a 408 priced out at $6200 complete that should have been around 450 to the wheels. I backed out at the last minute. Basically funded the LQ9 and most of the swap parts for what I sold the shortblock for. As bass ass as the Coyote is,.. bargain and affordable are not a words I would use to describe it.

Hurst

 

NA power. Yes, there are a lot of old school ways to make 400rwhp. Except for power, there are many aspects that the 408 would not be able to match. First, the cost is really no less. The 408 would be more at home in a drag car, IMO, as it wouldn't be as reliable (or at least, it couldn't go 100,000 miles without maintenance and making similar power to when it was fresh). How much power is the 408 going to make on 87?..none, because you probably couldn't run it. It's going to be limited in RPM (or you'll put a solid roller in it and have even more maintenance). It's going to be heavy as hell.

Let me put it this way - I'm not up to date on my Formula 1, so forgive me on the inaccuracies but... F1 engines (that I read about in the past) made 800-900hp. These days, we all know the recipe for making over 1000hp (dart, turbo, good heads...on and on) but will that engine do it turn after turn, lap after lap? Hell no - it would be luck to make 3-4 turns before spewing. The difference we are talking about isn't as big as the F1 vs Pushrod Ford, but still - it's just not the same.

There's always a cheaper way to do something. It's hard to argue though that this motor really closed the gap on HP per $ - and does it in a modern package. It always costs money to go fast, especially NA fast, and ESPECIALLY reliable NA fast. Yes, you can throw a carb on an old motor and make good power but HP per $ spent is pretty close to the same at this point. It's really what you're most comfortable with, tuning wise.

So I still maintain (and I'll clarify a little)....Compared to other reliable (long lasting, OEMish, EFI) NA FORD solutions, it's hard to beat this motor for the $.

 

Forgive my tardness - but what is an LQ9?

 

LQ9 is the HO version of the GM LQ4 6.0 truck engine. Basically the truck version of the LS2 that was used in the 05/06 GTO. The block has the larger 4" bore vs the smaller bore used in the LS1 engines. The head castings are identical to the Z06 heads except they have a larger combustion chamber. They flow identical numbers. They use the 317 heads (LQ9 heads) when doing a turbo LS1. The only difference between the LQ4 and LQ9 is that the LQ4 has a small dish in the middle of the piston for 9.4:1cr and LQ9 uses flat tops for 10:1cr. Factory ratings are 335hp and 365torq (LQ4) vs 345hp and 380torq (LQ9) respectively. The LQ4 was mainly used inthe 2500 and 3500 trucks and vans. The LQ9 was used in the 02 - 07 Silverado SS, GMC Denali and the Escalades. The one I have came out of a 2004 Escalade.

Dont feel bad,.. I had a learning curve to go through and still trying to cram it all in. I gave up on Chevy engines when the LT1's came out,.. so the LSx motors were completely alien to me. I never saw myself building anything other then a SBC if I ever did another Chevy motor,.. yet here I am. I just couldnt pass up the price of this motor, how easy it is to make 400+ HP out of them and how easy it is to make it work in a fox body. Oh,.. and how easy and affordable the 6.0 blocks are to stroke.

I'm not touching the long block with the exception of swapping the cam. I may get bored and port the heads myself if Bryan isnt done with my car soon. According to the guys on LS1tech I should be at around 400/425hp to the wheels with my intake, cam and carb choice and I dont have to rev it to the moon to make it happen. The cam I chose is only rated 1500 - 6500 RPM with the split plenum intake I chose. I'm not building this motor to be a race motor. My wife will be using the car as a daily driver. Reliability and modest fuel economy were my primary goals. But I fudged a little with fuel economy when choosing the cam I did. But it should still average 20/21 mpg and see up to 25 mpg on the highway. I'm taking out the 4.10 and swapping in either the 3.73 I have now or may see if I can trade for a 3.55 gear.

Performance wise you and I will be on even ground motor to motor,.. and if you decide to put a power adder on I do have plans to add an NOS Cheater kit. My car should weigh in at around 3200 with my fat ass in the seat,.. or right at 3000 with my wife behind the wheel. I'm guessing some mid 11's on motor if I can get it to hook and mid 10's should be a 150 shot away. Thats why I really want us to go have some fun when you get yours on the road. Get some video of our shenanigans and have something to tell our grand kids about. You know,.. the shit we used to do as kids.

Hurst

 

I think a coyote/fox on a 150 shot would be well into the 9's

 

I think it could also,.. or be very very close. In the current mustangs a 150 shot and the typical bolt ons just gets them into the 10's.

I know an LS1 Fbody with bolt ons and cam on a 150 shot can run low 10's. The 6.0 I have could get my car into the 9's on a 150 shot for sure if I went with a different cam and intake set up for more RPM's. I didnt go that route as this car will be my wife's daily driver for a while. So thats why I think a 150 shot will just get mine into the mid 10's. But you never know.

Edlebrock claims the cam I have when used in an LS1 with the same intake and carb I have now makes 460hp on an engine dyno. I'm guestimating that after you add the accessories on the front and take into account for drive train loss I 'should' be at or very near 400hp to the wheels.

Using the formula MPH = 234 * (HP / Weight) ^ .3333 with 400hp and a 3200lb race weight the car should trap around 118 mph. With the broad torq curv this motor will have that should be some easy mid 11's NA. A 150 shot should add between 100 - 125hp and the trap speed should pick up to 128mph on the 150 shot. That should be good for some low to mid 10's provided the car can hook. This car has never hooked very well, even when I had 10.5 ET Streets bagged at 12 PSI,.. so I am uncertain how will it will do. But then again,.. the suspension isnt being set up for drag racing either,.. so if someone wants to embarrass me they should pick a dig race LOL.

Hurst

 

Same here - I'm not even going to pretend that my car will hook from a dig. I'll be curious though what it CAN do - even if I only go to the dragstrip once. I'll keep you posted for sure. You'll have a few months on me to tune yours - so no excuses!

 

Not trying to be a dick, but please google seach some moar! T

 

That info would be easily found on Wiki.
If you see something wrong with that statement then speak up.

Actually I got that tid bit from the guys on N2S and LS1Tech.
I also have several PDF files direct from GM documentation that gives me the tolerances and specific engine specs of all LSx engines.

I'm not trying to be a dick either Thomas,.. but try using spell check and proof read what you type and you should be able to pass for more then a hick with a suit on.

Kiss

 

Holy fucking longtube headers, batman!