Has anyone over the years tried a set of Swift springs?

like so:


Coilover Springs

 

Springs are springs. As long as they are the diameter, rate and length are what you need, they'll work.

FYI, you can get good coilover springs cheaper than that:
H&R for $67.50 ea

Or, if you're building something that can take a longer spring (like 10"+), dirt track stuff is cheap:
QA1 springs for $39.95

Shop around. Most spring sellers websites aren't well optimized, you'll have to get creative with your Google searches to find them. Search for things like "2.5 race spring" or "2.5 track spring", "coilover spring" won't always find them.

 

Well good to know, I think i'll go with the H&R.....too bad I can't get them at qa1 price though.

 

H & R is a good brand. I have installed a few sets for my customers.

If QA1 is a good brand at a good price, I know how to make
them shorter if they are too tall.

The secret to altering a spring's length is in carefully measuring
and understanding the suspension.
I'm one of the few people on TR who can measure a suspension
so that shorter springs don't beat up the suspension, so they don't
flop around loose, and so they don't eat up tires.

Keep us posted on your results. Thanks.-Bob

 

Kamispeed is a company known to me. It looks like they are dealers for lots of
suspension stiffeners. Its worth following your link for people to read up on
what they offer other than Swift Springs.

Generally a spring's job is to support the weight of the car.
The very act of replacing springs and shocks will make your suspension work better than an old setup. I choose to use my original springs and heavier shocks for ride comfort and I use heavier anti-sway bars to keep the car flat in the turns. I also modified the stock springs to lower my car 3"......photographic proof available at the meets which I attend.

You might check your spring rates to see if they are close to stock. Springs that are much heavier than stock don't really gain you anything unless you are being pressed down into the pavement in a banked turn, or unless you are getting airborn and need heavy springs to keep you from bottoming out when you land. -Bob

Here is some further info on the role of shocks, springs and anti-sway bars:
https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/ch...sway-bars.html

 

I know for a fact that if i bolt on a big sway in the rear it will SNAP the weld off the sway bar mounts if i don't run springs over 250 to 300 lbs.

to me higher spring rates make sense because the more speed you add to a turn (like long sweepers on a road race track) the more g forces will increase.

when i bolted the H&R race springs to my old car that sucker handled down back roads in SC at highway speeds.

 

Cat,
It's my observation that people who place more stress on something, will usually
strengthen things as needed. If it happened to you, no one can say it did not.
So do what you think is best. Your stock welds were probably designed for a stock
suspension.

My thoughts are that any spring that is so hard that it will keep a car from
leaning in a turn, will beat the cars frame harder each time the wheel hits a bump.
Does that also lead to broken welds?
Most turns on the street have smaller radiuses than race track sweepers.
Most streets/roads have many more bumps than race tracks.

I prefer springs designed to support the cars weight that will not beat up the
cars frame when a bump is encountered, and I prefer to use anti-sway bars to
keep the car from leaning. The weight transfer in a turn can be calculated and
the size of anti-sway bars can be calculated so that everything works without
destroying something.-Bob

Here is some further info on the role of shocks, springs and anti-sway bars:
Highlight it to read the TR link.
https://www.tamparacing.com/forums/ch...sway-bars.html