Bro, a lot of us have Jobs, wait till I get home or the boss isn't throwing shit at me to do.

Patience grasshopper, patience.


Apparently I like to make things complicated.

Sorry.

 

sorry the ??? wasnt about that, it was because I got confused about what that guy said haha....thanks for the illustration. It proved that I hooked it up right, thanks!!!! and it isnt that I get confused easy or dont know what I am talking about, but in fact I dont know the right terminology and like to over think, over build, and over do everything I do

THAnKS!!!!!!!!

 

yep, good luck homes.

 

Your alternator =

 

Do you google everything? I've installed these things. a .7v drop would make it very difficult to charge a battery since most oem alternators dont run at 14v all the time. I dont even need to look at that link bcause I know what im talking about.


The only time you will see a .7v drop is with a really crappy isolator or a really crappy wiring job.


Why dont you take a multimeter to Toby's shop and check his SUV.. I think he has one in there.

 

Google was just to prove to you. It's pretty much a known fact, but w.e you say buddy

EDIT for your EDIT: I've seen Toby him self post on this forum they do have .7 drop.

 

well I installed it last night, just need to make some mounts for my batteries in the trunk and then I can start it to make sure everything runs correctly and nothing explodes or something weird.

 

A standard silicon diode, like those used in most isolators will have a .6 to .7 volt drop in forward voltage, depending on current. This is a fact (look it up anywhere you like, or test it yourself). Some (very few) isolators are made with Shottky diodes, which have lower drops, between .2 and .4 v.

While this drop will make battery charging more difficult, it will still happen. Actually, depending on where the voltage sense for the Alt is, it will try and maintain the regulator setpoint, and will just kick its output up by .7 v.

And define 'charge'. If you define it as a flow of current into the battery, then even if the regulator doesn't pick up the slack, the battery will still charge. Say the alternator is 13.5v. A .7v drop will put 12.8 at the battery. If the battery is down to anything less than 12.8, current will flow into it, and it will charge. Sure, it won't have the same maximum voltage potential as it would if given the full 13.5V, and the current flow will be lower, but it will still charge.

Italiancorolla...sorry I didn't get to your PM sooner...I'm in Vegas, at the Sema show, and haven't been on the internet much. Looks like you got your question answered, though.

While a relay will work just fine, if I were you, I would use the 1/2 of the isolator. Hook the front (main starting) battery to terminal one, and then hook both the new 4 ga (or larger) wire from your alternator and rear battery to terminal two. This will prevent your system from ever draining your front battery, while also giving your system full voltage. I like this better than a relay, because it is a solid state device, and is always 'on'...no contacts to burn up, no extra wires to hook up, no switches to leave in the wrong position, etc.
Toby

 

well I went ahead and did the relay isolater so I dont think i can do the half version anymore (though it sounded great). Have a good time at the sema show

 

Damn Walmart brand isolator with .7v drop! Go quality!