And some polk db 5.25 components

 

Even though we are past this isolator, I feel it necessary to point out this is totally inaccurate just in case someone is using the search.

A .7v drop would make it almost impossible for the alt to charge the batteries, its more like .1v - .2v.

 

I've got enough spare audio equipment sitting here next to me to make two complete car stereo setups =S.

 

well I purchased mine alittle above list because I am a stinger dealer THANKS THOUGH

this is the way i have it hooked up, see anything wrong with it? I dont understand how the relay is supposed to see if the battery is getting low for the secondary battery to turn on, I mean wouldnt the alternator confuse it by still charging it?

 

Yeah and what was list? Like 40 bucks? I'd have sold it for 20.


Btw, I don't think you understand the concept.

Depending on how you wire it up:

When the car is on and the stereo is on, it sends a 12v signal through a wire to the relay (which is just like any other relay, just bigger). That 12v signal tells the relay to open up the line and make the entire system as one. With the car on, the batteries get charged up since the alternator provides the power to the system and the weakest part of the system (whichever battery) gets the most power to get charged up. So no worries about getting one battery completely drained .
When you have the car/stereo turned off, the signal cuts out and the relay gets disconnected from the front battery, effectively isolating the two so they don't discharge each other when you leave it sitting.

Now the only downside to this is the fact that if you leave the car sitting while playing the stereo, the loop is still open, draining both the batteries at the same time. This is where the voltmeters come in handy, to monitor the voltage of the system. I am pretty sure though that once the system runs to about 11v, the relay kicks off and your primary battery would still have just enough charge to start your car up.

The switch that Dalton was talking about would more than likely be a much better idea, and in effect could probably almost completely eliminate the scenario I just described above. It would isolate the two sources, leaving the primary batt to just provide the miniscule amount of power required to run the headunit, while the second batt would be isolated and powering the amps that run the speakers/subwoofers. The only real downside to this is that you would have to use the switch all the time to hear sound and the amount of time leaving the stereo on while the car off would reduce a little, but it would be a much bigger peace of mind and would be less stressful on a non-deep cycle primary battery.

blah.

 

wow...ok, I knew I didnt understand the concept fully!!! Did I wire it up right though? So curious as this may be, the relay instructions says to connect one of the wires to my "TRUE IGNITION" I assume toware it will turn on. Would a reg 12V source like my cig lighter surffice as well?

 

You kinda have it right, although it looks like you're just making it look way more complicated than you need to.

Do this:

Just run one huge 0/1 ga wire from your main batt to your trunk, and then put the relay back there. Think of it as your floodgate for your 2nd batt.

Getting any true 12v source is easy. I would just wire one long thin cable from your batt again and put it to the relay, snip and put a switch somewhere in between that run, and tuck it under your steering wheel or in your console or something.

As far as all your other wires go, put them in stock-ish setup with upgraded wires as the only difference.


Dalton and other people might chime in with much better ideas, but this is generally how I set up mine.

 

ok, I am not a book reader, but a pop up book kinda guy with many colorful drawings, could you draw a picture for me (fast, doesnt have to be the mona lisa). I understand the line going to the back, but after that ????

 

You should at least do a quick google before you try to prove me wrong. Even on this website selling them it tells you how much. .7 to .9

DC Power Onboard with Newmar’s Battery Isolators and Integrators. Newmar’s Battery Isolators allow the charging of multiple batteries from one or two alternators. These are rated for 12-48 volt negative ground DC systems. The Battery Inte

 

so ???