upgrading alt wire, need help
The Alternator's power should go straight to your main battery, or in your case the isolator. Make a new ground for the alternator, don't use the stock wire/grounding location.
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LOGIC? You seriously want to invoke logic in a conversation about fake hijackings, missiles hitting the pentagon, and bombs planted throughout the world trade center? I thought it was a given that logic was checked at the door when entering one of these threads.
I foregot about the alternator ground, thanks for reminding me about upgrading it too.
This might be a dumb question but here it goes. My wire from my alternator goes to my fuse box, goes through a 100A fuse, then comes back as a smaller wire to my battery. Now My question this time is, does the wire coming from the fuse box (alt fuse) actually connect to any circuits in the fuse box, does does it strictly go to the fuse box toware it would have a nice spot to be fused at, thanks...
This might be a dumb question but here it goes. My wire from my alternator goes to my fuse box, goes through a 100A fuse, then comes back as a smaller wire to my battery. Now My question this time is, does the wire coming from the fuse box (alt fuse) actually connect to any circuits in the fuse box, does does it strictly go to the fuse box toware it would have a nice spot to be fused at, thanks...
It probably bridges with the battery wire and supplied power to the fuse box - so you probably cant isolate it there. you will have to take off that wire at the alternator and run a new one to the isolator.
Honestly you should junk all of this and get ONE 75amp relay.
Honestly you should junk all of this and get ONE 75amp relay.
It probably bridges with the battery wire and supplied power to the fuse box - so you probably cant isolate it there. you will have to take off that wire at the alternator and run a new one to the isolator.
Honestly you should junk all of this and get ONE 75amp relay.
Honestly you should junk all of this and get ONE 75amp relay.
I have read both pros and cons to these configurations. I bought the regular isolater (3 posT) toware my audio video battery can not drain out my regular battery. The problem is that the wire from my alternator goes to our stock engine bay fuse box, then goes to the battery. I thought I could just run a new 0-gauge wire from the alt to the isolater, and connect the wires from the fuse box and starter to the battery 1 and thats that????
I will post a picture of what I am asking
-the first wiring diagram shows how our stock set-up is
- the second diagram is the one I am asking if it will work?
if this is right, then what would I do with the wire leading from the alternator that would normally goto the fuse box???

That second picture is perfect, but the relay is much simpler. With a relay, you can switch it on manually so that you can use the front battery to augment your power supply (or the rear to aid in cranking) if you ever needed to as well.
Like I said before thanks, I love learning new things, the way stuff works, just wish I had a play car to do it with and not my main car, but aww well. In the Iraggi instructions, it says its not a good idea to use any type of isolater because then you dont know if the battery goes bad and then it would ruin the alternator, which makes sense. So I ordered the 200A isolater relay from stinger today, and then when they get more in, I will also go ahead and get the battery sensing modules toware it will tell me how the battery is doing.
Heh, should have asked any of us if we had any relays, I have a stinger 200A relay just sitting here... lonely and wanting some love for real cheap
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LOGIC? You seriously want to invoke logic in a conversation about fake hijackings, missiles hitting the pentagon, and bombs planted throughout the world trade center? I thought it was a given that logic was checked at the door when entering one of these threads.



Now there's some logic!