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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 11:24 AM
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Don't waste time choking it down with that .458 cam. The power is in the heads, and they need a cam to match the flow capabilities. I would keep the duration in a medium range (5800-6250 rpms) to match your intake, but use the max amount of lift that the heads will take. This will hold the floodgate open longer to fill the cylinder. A cam will make or break an engine.

Last edited by Hit Man; Aug 8, 2010 at 11:27 AM.
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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just curious if you have run the numbers on the block. I know the valve covers of your new motor say 327, but 327's had a casted fin on the front of the block just above the water pump by the passenger side head. it's the only outside identifier of the 327. it's hard to really tell from the pic, but it doesn't look like it has it. just something to check out. but, either way a v-8 s10 can be a very fun ride
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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Tis there, pics are just shitty.

Joker finally got all his wiring situated, we gotta do some welding and torching before the engine goes in though.

The cam will work perfectly with the intake and the head setup. 1.7s bring it up too.
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 03:37 PM
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ok. alot of people don't know to look for that. that's cool then, 327's are high rshared_pm motors and pretty well balanced. can't wait to see it come toether. I'll dig up some pics of the one I built that I was telling you about
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Old Aug 8, 2010 | 03:50 PM
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here's my old truck. motor was a 10.5:1 355, .292 dur .500 lift cam, ported heads, single plane intake, long tube headers, and some other odds and ends of goodies. I could loor it at 60 and still break the tires loose hard enough to turn it sideways. weighed just over 2600#, had ladder bars, adjustable coil overs, fuel cell, relocated battery to the rear, engine set back 3" ith a reworked firewall and tranny tunnel. front clip pulled off with just 2 bolts and a quick conect for the wiring. made working on it a hell of a lot easier. got more pictures somewhere, but these are just the few I have kept track of in the 6 years since I owned it. no idea where it is now





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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 09:06 AM
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Fuck yeah man!!! Kick ass shit!

Not many people realize what you have to do, front clip wise, to get the small blocks in/out of these turds. Joker knows very well now though. Lol
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Old Aug 9, 2010 | 03:42 PM
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4 words every v-8 s10 owner cringes to hear; distributor-to-firewall-clearance. it was a chore pulling and installing the distributor with the motor in the truck
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Old Aug 10, 2010 | 04:38 PM
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The 305, the distributor had about half an inch til touching metal... A Ford engine would be so much smarter. Lol


Dude, talk to me about what the flat black truck is, in your sig... Really curious as to the story behind it.
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Hit Man
Don't waste time choking it down with that .458 cam. The power is in the heads, and they need a cam to match the flow capabilities. I would keep the duration in a medium range (5800-6250 rpms) to match your intake, but use the max amount of lift that the heads will take. This will hold the floodgate open longer to fill the cylinder. A cam will make or break an engine.
I was wondering about that , myself. Thats an awfully small cam for a small block chevy. What kind of head are you running?
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Old Aug 11, 2010 | 04:59 AM
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and the best way to keep from having fire wall / dizzy problems , is to make your on mounts. Ive done this on 3 s10 builds. I actually just wellded a plate of heavy steel , not sure of the exact size to the factory mounts. It puts the engine close to the radiator , but not so close you cant get the belts off. You just have to use a pusher fan in front of the radiator. This will give you about 3 inches to the fire wall. Depending on what tranny you use , you might have to extend the drive shaft , wich I also do myself.
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