500hp on almost any car is nice but would you rather have 500hp on a 3300lbs mustang or on a 1800lbs crx ???

and forget about fuel economy.....BULLSHIT...... @ $2.10 a MFing gallon that's one of the first things to not forget. If you got the money to burn then watching you fuel gauge drop as fast as your speedo goes up is kinda entertaining but for the rest of us I still like 25+ mpg on a turboed car.

turbo anything as long as it'll take it... hell if I could find one small enough I'd put it on my riding lawn mower

 

Lol, thats like me. I want one of those new honda turbo waverunners just so I can put a boost controller and boost gauge and add a little fuel and see what they can do

 

OH HELL YEAH

check this out http://www.pwctexas.us/s2003hondas.html

it looks like a small d series. can we say sleeves and a bottom end then crank the boost

200+hp waverunner sweeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeet.

 

Diamond Star Motors, Mitsu.

 

whats the difference between a oem turbo car and a na car that you add the turbo to???? the fact that the factory installed the turbo!

given that the factory installed and designed the system that must mean it is the best. sure! can we say FORD FOCUS? just because the factory designed it doesn't mean it is the best or event good, hell in the case of the focus it doesn't say shit for the factory except they can produce a low budget rolling mechanical malfunction.

just becaus the factory but a turbo on it doesn't say a damn thing.

the dodge srt-4, I am not impressed. a 2.4ltr turbo'd car with 230hp at the crank. a 2.4 ltr should have 230 hp at the crank wiht out the turbo. this means the srt has about 160hp without the turbo ( given the standard 7psi of boost ).. 160hp na on a 2.4 ltr???? mopar needs to go back to the drawing board.

honda b16 is 160hp na on a 1.6 ltr engine add 7lbs of boost and you wil be at the 230 crank hp that the srt has, you will be doing it on a 1.6ltr and you won't be stuck with the srt's 22/mpg city/hwy. which I am sure is driving conservatively. hell I get 30+mpg on my b16 in the city when I drive conservatively and its 15 years old.

I am also putting together my own turbo kit that will see about 250-260whp at 10psi with stock internalls. I will run a vacume controlled boost limiter and an ignition controlled boost limiter for safety, what happens to a oem turbo if the wastegate malfunctions and doesn't open BOOM. game over your screwed. time to buy a new engine. now how good is oem?

this turbo is going on my daily driver and by doing the work in stages you work on the car on the weekends and still have it to drive to work during the week. yes it would be easier to have a 2nd car while you work on your daily driver so if you can afford the extra bucks for a beater that you will sell after the turbo is on then cool. otherwise build in stages. i.e. upgrade fuel pump, add fuel pressure sensor, fuel filter upgrade, and fpr (if needed ) one weekend: add oil pressure and temp, boost gauge, boost controller, turbo timer, egt gauge, and fmu if it is a piggyback or you are tuning it, if hondata then I would buy an extra ecu off ebay have hondata installed on the xtra ecu then you can just swap ecu's at the last second before you drive to the tuning shop,the next:

then the final weekend before you install the turbo I would dry fit everything to make sure there aren't any clearance issues and check that all the small parts are there. I would double check all the other stuff up to this point to make sure it is working and programmed I.E. the turbo timer and boost controller, since this may not take all weekend you can relax with the extra time. call the tuning shop and setup an appointment for tuning the engine for after the turbo install. thefinal weekend tap the oil pan attach the oil feed, thread in the egt sensor, bolt up the turbo, put on the i/c plumbing, hook up vacum lines for the wastegate and boostcontroller, finish up the odds and ends, and get it tuned.

do your research, know what you need and want, understand you setup and your engine, and if you don't have time to do it right the first time don't do it wait till later and do it right.

people have problems with there projects when they use cheap and inferior parts, don't get enough info, and don't buil a margin for error. I have said it befor and I'll say it again..... if you want to run 20psi into your engine don't build it to handle 22psi you waiting for disaster, build it for 30+psi and let it have a vacation while you run 20psi. sure it's a little more money but the extra cost is way less than doing the entire project over.

honda's aren't worth tuboing?????? puff puff give

250 whp, 28+ mpg, 13's in the 1/4 easy, complete audio video system, lower cost than any stock car running the same 1/4 times, not worth it..... on what planet?

the domestics on here may not be for playing with. 12 seconds is 12 seconds regardless of what your in, the idea is to do it better. your 12's equals a domestic gas guzzler where as import 12 sec is still 25+ mpg. and saying a na car has its limitsif you turbo it...what? I said it earlier a oem turbo car is just the factory jackasses puting in the work for you. as soon as you take a na car with its "limits" and put a turbo on it you now have a turbo car and your "limits" are gone. the oem car is limited by the same things, boost capability of the engine, fuel management, turbo size, as the na car. since factory boost is normally 6-7psi the engine is built to handle that and more. the honda b16 can run 6-7psi all day with no problem just the same. sleeve the block and build the bottom end and both engines will handle enogh boost to satisfy most of us here. oem boost or your boost? who does it better is up to how well YOU put it together.

turbo anything.... just do it right.

 

Dude what kinda stuff u on?I want some too.

 

+1

u wrote a freakin story man haha

 

i agree that you can boost anything, but i think some of the things mentioned just crossed the line. A factory turbocharged car is nothing more than an NA factory car with a turbo kit? That's hardly the case. Although i'm a wrx owner i've got to give props to that srt-4 you were dissin. The srt-4 motor is built extremely well and has the potential to be the best 4 cylinder motor once it gets a couple years of experience under its buckle. Honda motors have any excellent aftermarket and are pretty simple to work on and can be built up to be fuckin nasty. (just look at dave's [99b16si] numbers) However, no stock bottom end b16 turbo with bolt-ons is going to pull numbers like a factory turbocharged car with bolt-ons, for the sole purpose that the factory turbo'd bottom end is far more stout and will handle way more load.
Also, you can't take a factory turbocharged car (or any car with low compression) and make assumptions on how much power it makes without its turbo. You are comparing a high compression motor (B16) with a low compression motor on the basis of NA. I'm sure if you put high compression pistons in that str-4 motor, it would make more than 160hp. When you go turbo for raw power, you want low compresssion. Low compression pistons are dogs if you are running NA. That's just common sense.

 

As for the import vs domestic argument, they both have their advantages and its all preference. Domestic cars have half the aftermarket that imports do, which makes them all look the fuggen same. Their mpg blows as well as their handling. But when it comes to power there really isn't much of a comparison. The motors are like 3 times the size and the potential is obvious.
Import owners are just interested in a more all around car. They want their cars to look different, handle well, get good gas mileage, and lay down some good power numbers. Most domestic owners are just in it for the muscle. European cars are just like imports x2 but you gotta have lots of $$$.
That's why i love my import with european style motor

 

my take:

domestic vs. import:
i have much respect for the domestics. although i am a nissan / import enthusiast, there is no way that i can over see the amount of power that some of these v's produce now-a-days. ford, dodge, and gmc are great car companies. efficient or not, these companies make powerful cars. indy cars are probably less efficient than 90% of the cars out there, how come no one complains about the amount of power that comes from that and how un-economic it is?

srt-4:
although it is a quick car for a relatevly low amount of cash, the car is powered by MITSUBISHI. sure it is all mopar and what not but the turbo is a mitsubishi turbo designed to spin in reverse in refrence to the regular mitsubishi turbos. the 2.0 engine is engineered to exist with the turbo and is engineered well. without the mitsubishi turbo, however, the engine would be crap.

domestics:
companies like gmc had such a big issue with the 4wheel steering system that they have just recently engaged onto. the idea is great and all, but nissan and honda have been doing the 4wheel steering on early 240's and preludes as well as other companies.

turbos:
it comes down to compression. there are pleanty of na cars that get boosted and have a significient amount of horse power gain. people turbo charge the integra gs-r engines and they are powerful and economical to some degree. just because a factory turbocharges the engine, i believe, does not make it any more or less road worthy. it is all about customizing cars and what not. i would rather wait in line and see a twin turbo integra, than wait in the same line to see a eclipse gst, stock. turbos are efficient and economical in most aspects. if you want to turbo charge a go-ped, go for it. ill be waiting in line to see it high compression is for na engine and low compression is for the turbo engines. if someone were to rebuild their engine (someone = someone who knows what they are doing) with different pistons and bore and stroke (to rebuild a na engine for a turbo application), that in itself should make the car more respectable than any stock turbocharged car, left stock that is.

advice:
i need to stay on topic and get down off my soap box. if i were you, id pick a turbo that you want. do you want high speeds (larger turbos) that will take a while to spool up, or would you rather perfer a quicker spool time (smaller turbo) which has quick acceleration but the high end speed wont be as much? it is all about the balance. you need to sacrifice high end speed or low end acceleration (turbo lag). keep in mind that the larger turbos will run you a considerable amount of money as well. after you pick which turbo you want to go with, you should pick out which type in intercooler, fuel management, wastegate, bov, and all that other stuff. it is obvious that if you go with a smaller turbo, the horse power gains wont be as much, but you wont have to spend the extra cash on the extra large fuel pump, or other accessories. i HIGHLY recomend that you go about piecing together your own turbo system rather than buying a complete system from some website. FIGHT THE MAN!! good luck and keep it custom

china