okay so i didnt get to compression test it because... its leaking oil badly from somewhere near the back of the engine and the tranny so now i have to wait till next weekend to fix my rear main seal...
but smoke was black and white/blue both colors came out
im also buying parts for another ka that i plan on oem rebuilding so worst case scenario i id have to rush the rebuild
but hopefully i can fix this ka to hold off till the new one is ready

 

That seems like a good plan...So how much oil did you put in it when you started changing things around etc?

Also make sure to check well at the back of the block at the pan gasket. That way you dont go pulling your trans out etc. for the wrong reason. It did not leak a lick of anything besides that damn top valve cover piece which apparently just began on my way to you.

 

well it has already had 2 oil changes
i know its not the pan gasket as i just replaced it and i can see oil dripping from the bottom of the tranny
yeah things have gotten worse since the day i got it

 

my hatch is having the same problems, i chanded the gas still nothing, i thought it was the fuel pump so i changed that the car ran fine for abuot 3 days then it started dying again, it conviently only dies when i have something to do, like every day on my way to work.
i have to fight it to get it to start, it randomly starts when i put it in reverse while holdign the key to the start position and poping the clutch itll start.
when i start the car the rpm goes crazy bouncing between 1 and 2rpm violently then the car warms up the rpm drops to where it should and deponding on how she feels like acting that day i can get 15 miles before she shuts of or i can bearly make it out of my drive way.
changed all the egi fuses.
when i got the car, i bought it from a neibor hood thats not too nice haha but i was only getting spanish radio stations through my sterio, so i took it out to find out that everything was rigged together HORRIABLE like wires spliced into other with painters tape holdign them together. so i just took the radio out when i was at work sitting in the parking lot. i got all the way home and the last 2 blocks from my house it died, the next day i went out to my car as usual started it went back inside to taky my shower and on my way out i heard my car die. i rushed out side to find out that my car is now diing at idle when it gets warm. once its warm i can not get it running again. it just wont start itll crank and crank, i was thinking it a sensor like cam shaft or something? its not a blown head gasket, i just dont understand, maby cap and rotor? but theres no oil in cap, could timing be off? any ideas?

 

good luck man, my motor eventually seized up and i rebuilt one so i never found the problem out, mine was definitely a motor issue. Since the new motor runs fine with all the old sensors and harnesses

 

could be all kinds off issues.
start with the basics.
it needs air (a specific metered amount of air, that means, good MAF, and no vacuum leaks)
Fuel (a specific amount of fuel, so pressure is a big deal, along with properly working injectors)
Spark (a strong, healthy spark, all of the time, at the right time)
Timing (going off of spark, everything has to come together at the right time)
Compression (it doesn't necessarily have to be great compression, as long as it is consistent on all 4 cylinders)

Start with those.
The results of testing for each one of those things could teach you a lot about that engine.

Also, do you have any codes on the ECU? Probably nothing useful, but it doesn't hurt to check.

I would also check the coolant temp sensor, especially since you are saying it will run for a little bit. If that sensor is garbage, then the ECU will do all kinds of crazy things to compensate for it.

the cam angle sensor is in the distributor, make sure that plug is in good shape. You could also consider pulling it apart for a visual inspection. Won't tell you if the sensor itself is bad, but you can at least see if anything looks wrong.
If budget would allow, a good one would rule out any possible issues now and in the future. These sensors tend to work while they are cold, but once it gets hot, the resistance gets too high and the sensor tweaks, causing the engine to stall and not start.

When was the last time the engine had a proper tune up?
Again, resistance goes up as things get hotter. If the spark is weak to begin with, it will be all but none existent once the resistance goes up.

 

i honnestly have no clue when the last tune up was, ive only had the car for about 2 weeks all i did was weld the diff and drift it, kinda beating on it for a bit, but the guy i got it from didnt drive it sense 2007 i dont even know where to begian, it gets stark some times,i was thinking its a leak it could be a coolent issue, also as i forgot to add to the first post, if i drive the car before ti warms up its laggy and dies and will not start, ive had to leave my in the parking lot of where i work for an entire day before it would start, i changed the starter. spark plugs are good timming is fine theres no oil in the cap, im new to nissan, im fimilay with honda, im trying to get my hands on a sr swap or go ka-t but for now, i just need to get to work.

 

it may have something to do with the injectors cuz in 5th gear high way miles 65-80 mph the car will start to stutter its shoot the rmp up then drop then ill have about 10 to 15 miles and the gas pedal will start to get stiffer and stiffer then itll get soft and the car will die and take abuot a half hour to start back up.
i bought a real crappy car just trying to make the best outta this situation.

 

You can't be serious... you bought a car you knew had been sitting for a really long time and you started driving it like a complete moron before going over the entire car to determine its actual condition and fix all of the issues it undoubtably has.
Either you really are a total idiot, or you are some moron punk teenager that thinks they are super JDM coolio because now you drive a mad tight driftoro mobile...


I would suggest start by learning how to communicate like a human being. That means learning how to form a halfway decent sentence, typing it correctly, and then reading the responses you get with some sort of comprehension. I gave you a rather detailed list of "where to begian"

I'm assuming you mean it gets spark sometimes. If that is the case, then there in lies your problem. There is only so many things that can effect spark. If it is narrowed down to one or two cylinders, then you know the problem has to do with the cap/rotor, down to the plug itself. If it just stops getting spark all around, then you would start looking at the coil as an issue, and move to the CAS in the distributor.

I don't care what car you think you have experience with, a coolant leak doesn't short out the coil preventing spark. Now, given the fact that the car has sat for several years, I would bet money on the coolant lines being rotted out, as well as the water pump being bad. It is also highly possible that the radiator and subsequently, the heater core, all full of gunk as well. So you are quite possibly right about it having a coolant leak. However, that doesn't have anything to do with the way it is running, unless of course, you do in fact have a blown head gasket, which is also highly likely considering you took a car that had been sitting for several years and started beating on it.
So if you let it sit and idle it will run 100% perfect? But your earlier post said that it will die after you let it idle for a short period of time. So what is actually happening?
Why would you change the starter?
Did the engine not turn over at all? Did you just get a clicking noise when you turned the key? Or did the engine spin and spin but not actually start?
How did you determine that? You just said you had no idea when the last tune up was. The plugs are at least 4 years old, and that doesn't count how long they were in the car before it was parked and just sat there. I would bet that the spark plugs are total crap.
What the hell does that even mean?
There is no oil in the cap, so therefore the timing must be spot on? You claim to have worked on Hondas, but I have absolutely no idea what honda engine you could have been working on that would have leaked oil into the cap when the timing was off.
Are you trying to say that there is no oil on the CAS? but since you don't know anything about nissans, I'm wondering how you would have even known where the CAS was considering it is in a totally different place on every popular honda engine.

You want to swap in an SR or even worse, boost a KA, but you are incapable of doing simple maintenance on a car that you bought knowing it had issues?
Wow.

Sense. That does not make. So it dies at idle, but you somehow managed to get it up to 80 miles per hour where it started stuttering. You do know that Stuttering means it developed a miss fire, and that is totally different then shooting the RPMs up and then the RPMs dropping. Of which, I'm curious, if it was in gear, how did the RPMs shoot up?
And how the hell did your gas pedal get stiffer? You know it is just a steel cable attached to a piece of metal with a spring on it right? It can't get stiffer or softer. So what the hell does that mean?
So does it take a half hour to start back up, or all day like you implied earlier?
No, you bought a car that had sat for a long time and therefore required lots of work to get it back into shape that you decided to be a moron about, ignoring that, and go straight to beating on it.
You created all of these problems.
There is a reason why cars that have sat for a long time are so cheap, they need a lot of money in parts and time and effort to get back into decent shape.
If you have any hopes of getting this thing back where it should be, then stop being an idiot and fix it correctly.

In all honesty, I would suggest taking the loss on it and selling it for really cheap and let someone that knows what they are doing under the hood of a car get everything fixed so it can at least be driven.

 

This Mexican straight thread jacked and did a horrible job at it.