OEM electric fan not working
now, I will temper that with saying, if you already have a better radiator, and already have, or are going to do the alternator swap, and at which time, will go ahead and do the relay mod to the ignition to take full advantage of the higher outputs, then yeah, the e-fans should be a no brainer. But ONLY if you are moving enough air, and have it set up to function as if it was there from the factory.
Actually is was Dan that did the "testing" on his old s14, so I would say that it was done right.
And no, it doesn't run at max, but when you can notice a voltage drop just by turning on the headlights, I don't see how a set of good, high CFM fans with a higher draw isn't going to have a greater effect
So what are you considering "done right"
a radiator swap to increase heat exchange to compensate for the lower air flow?
an alternator swap to compensate for the increased electrical load?
harness upgrades to properly handle the increase amperage?
A pulley swap to keep the alternator spinning at more optimum rpm's?
a correct e-fan install should only be the fans, shroud, temp driven controller.
If you can't get the job done, with those parts as good, or better than the stock clutch fan, without sacrificing anything, then it isn't worth it.
And no, it doesn't run at max, but when you can notice a voltage drop just by turning on the headlights, I don't see how a set of good, high CFM fans with a higher draw isn't going to have a greater effect
So what are you considering "done right"
a radiator swap to increase heat exchange to compensate for the lower air flow?
an alternator swap to compensate for the increased electrical load?
harness upgrades to properly handle the increase amperage?
A pulley swap to keep the alternator spinning at more optimum rpm's?
a correct e-fan install should only be the fans, shroud, temp driven controller.
If you can't get the job done, with those parts as good, or better than the stock clutch fan, without sacrificing anything, then it isn't worth it.
If you call fans, shroud, controller a "correct" install, I see that you dont have the ability to grasp the concept, or just want to bias the comparison in an attempt to claim the clutchfan setup is "better"
Knowing that the electric fans are going to draw substantial current, and blatantly ignoring this, shows plenty of ignorance, I bet you've installed stereos in the past, then complained about your lighting, or other stuff, and decided a bigger battery was the answer too, huh ?
Yeah, upgrading the alternator, from the tiny joke, to one that actually puts out extra power, beyond the requirement of the e-fans is just stupid, I mean who would want their car to run better, their upgraded components (lights, stereo, other misc in car add ons) to all work better, just add add add, then bitch about shit not working right because it sucks, not because you failed to do it right.
now, I will temper that with saying, if you already have a better radiator, and already have, or are going to do the alternator swap, and at which time, will go ahead and do the relay mod to the ignition to take full advantage of the higher outputs, then yeah, the e-fans should be a no brainer. But ONLY if you are moving enough air, and have it set up to function as if it was there from the factory.
"relay mod to the ignition"
Yup, again, I see, you arent used to doing things correctly, so somehow theres a "relay mod" , and not wiring things correctly, with relays, apparently thats another optional mod/upgrade

Like I said, apples to apples, a "proper" e-fan setup compared to a clutch fan, not the typical TR "oh i slapped in these junkyard fans, and stuck the two 12ga wires together into one 16ga wire, and then stuffed that in with my fuelpump fuse" setup.
so i don't know what to call it. melt my fucking keys and pawn my tools. holy shit
it is the same thing you do when you wire in a new wire with a relay to the fuel pump so it is getting battery voltage straight from the battery and not through the harness.
you do the same basic thing to the coil
my bad for not knowing the "proper" name for that modification
again i ask, what do you consider proper?
just saying that it isn't stuffing a wire into the fuel pump fuse doesn't answer the question.
it is the same thing you do when you wire in a new wire with a relay to the fuel pump so it is getting battery voltage straight from the battery and not through the harness.
you do the same basic thing to the coil
my bad for not knowing the "proper" name for that modification
again i ask, what do you consider proper?
just saying that it isn't stuffing a wire into the fuel pump fuse doesn't answer the question.
Minimum :
Enough alternator power (upgrades are cheap even if your engine doesnt have one with enough)
Correct wiring : One relay per fan
Temperature control
Fused connection feeding power to the relays
Shroud properly installed
Bonus points:
Triple relay setup on dual fans, high/low control
Using oem relay sockets and unused locations in the stock relay/fuse centers to install these, making the installation nearly invisible.
Nice stuff if you have a newer swap:
LS1 and LT1 pcm's do speed based fan control, cuts off the fans after a certain speed is acheived. Aside from coming standard setup for high/low instead of on/off.
The comments about your "relay mod" , werent about not knowing the terminology, I couldnt care what you called it, I knew what you meant, the issue was that you seem to list it as optional, and its far from it.
Enough alternator power (upgrades are cheap even if your engine doesnt have one with enough)
Correct wiring : One relay per fan
Temperature control
Fused connection feeding power to the relays
Shroud properly installed
Bonus points:
Triple relay setup on dual fans, high/low control
Using oem relay sockets and unused locations in the stock relay/fuse centers to install these, making the installation nearly invisible.
Nice stuff if you have a newer swap:
LS1 and LT1 pcm's do speed based fan control, cuts off the fans after a certain speed is acheived. Aside from coming standard setup for high/low instead of on/off.
The comments about your "relay mod" , werent about not knowing the terminology, I couldnt care what you called it, I knew what you meant, the issue was that you seem to list it as optional, and its far from it.
Last edited by Z28ricer; Apr 19, 2011 at 09:26 PM.
yes. what I am talking about is optional. you can leave it stock. as for 90% of the cars on the road.
we must not be talking about the same thing. I don't see how installing a relay to replace something the factory did is mandatory. The fuel pump functions just fine with the factory installed harness. the coil functions just fine with the factory harness. the modification is an attempt to get "better" "cleaner' and even "more" power by getting it straight from the source, with a fresh, usually heaver gauge wire in an attempt to get more performance out of the fuel pump and/or coil. It lets you bypass any harness issues you would have, even if it is just a 20 year old wire, allowing you to get the most out of the pump and the coil. but neither of those would be "mandatory"
and having to do a list of bolt ons isn't installing e-fans the "right way"
shrouds, relays, temp controls, these things are the right way.
everything is is a determining factor in whether or not the e-fans are worth it or not.
so in essense, if you don't have the charging capabilities, then you don't need/shouldn't have e-fans, which was the whole point all along.
so in your attempt at an elitist, only you know how to "do it right" attitude, you proved the point that everyone was trying to make.
a clutch fan is the far better option when compared to e-fans given the lack of a significant performance gain and the huge cost associated with the install.
we must not be talking about the same thing. I don't see how installing a relay to replace something the factory did is mandatory. The fuel pump functions just fine with the factory installed harness. the coil functions just fine with the factory harness. the modification is an attempt to get "better" "cleaner' and even "more" power by getting it straight from the source, with a fresh, usually heaver gauge wire in an attempt to get more performance out of the fuel pump and/or coil. It lets you bypass any harness issues you would have, even if it is just a 20 year old wire, allowing you to get the most out of the pump and the coil. but neither of those would be "mandatory"
and having to do a list of bolt ons isn't installing e-fans the "right way"
shrouds, relays, temp controls, these things are the right way.
everything is is a determining factor in whether or not the e-fans are worth it or not.
so in essense, if you don't have the charging capabilities, then you don't need/shouldn't have e-fans, which was the whole point all along.
so in your attempt at an elitist, only you know how to "do it right" attitude, you proved the point that everyone was trying to make.
a clutch fan is the far better option when compared to e-fans given the lack of a significant performance gain and the huge cost associated with the install.
Last edited by Empire; Apr 19, 2011 at 09:45 PM.
and having to do a list of bolt ons isn't installing e-fan
so in essense, if you don't have the charging capabilities, then you don't need/shouldn't have e-fans, which was the whole point all along.
so in your attempt at an elitist, only you know how to "do it right" attitude, you proved the point that everyone was trying to make.
a clutch fan is the far better option when compared to e-fans given the lack of a significant performance gain and the huge cost associated with the install.
And again, i'll prove you wrong, and your little attempt at a rebuttal, to be useless drivel.
First, no installing RelayS, yes plural, isnt an OPTION, because generally people running E-fans, are using either dual fans (the stock wiring that exists is only for a small fan for the a/c), or a lot will run a taurus SHO fan, again something that draws a LOT more current than the stock setup is designed for (fan relay, fan wiring)
Huge cost to upgrade the alternator ?
Holy shit, nevermind, lets not upgrade anything, all upgrades are worthless, dont modify anything.
After all, $~80 is a huge expense to upgrade an alternator.
If you're going to make a point, have a foot to stand on, dont sit there and cry about me being an "elitist" because i'm flat out handing you the handbook on how to do it right, if I were an "elitist" i'd just keep laughing at all the stupid people with their shit done wrong, crying about shit that dont work, instead of tell you just how to do it properly. Its not my fault you're too stupid to listen.
It's indeed very true, you can lead a horse to water...
Last edited by Z28ricer; Apr 19, 2011 at 09:56 PM.
just to further the giggles,
used quest alt - 80 bucks
your bracket - 30 bucks
radiator probe style thermo control - 50 plus bucks
custom made/fitted shroud - 20 bucks
used oe fans - 50 bucks
relays - 15 bucks
wiring - 10 bucks
odds and ends - 10 bucks.
So over 250 bucks to "properly" install electric fans using used parts of rather unknown condition (which I thought was the whole argument against the clutches in the first place) just to end up at the same cooling performance as the 20 dollar clutch.
Shit, you can buy a brand new clutch for 50 to 100 depending on brand totally eliminating the "its 20 years old" argument and still spend less money.
used quest alt - 80 bucks
your bracket - 30 bucks
radiator probe style thermo control - 50 plus bucks
custom made/fitted shroud - 20 bucks
used oe fans - 50 bucks
relays - 15 bucks
wiring - 10 bucks
odds and ends - 10 bucks.
So over 250 bucks to "properly" install electric fans using used parts of rather unknown condition (which I thought was the whole argument against the clutches in the first place) just to end up at the same cooling performance as the 20 dollar clutch.
Shit, you can buy a brand new clutch for 50 to 100 depending on brand totally eliminating the "its 20 years old" argument and still spend less money.
Look up how much a NEW oem fan clutch, and shroud are, and then come back with your $ comparison. Replacing junk, with more used junk, when your junk, goes bad, doesnt cut it.
just to further the giggles,
used quest alt - 80 bucks
your bracket - 30 bucks
radiator probe style thermo control - 50 plus bucks
custom made/fitted shroud - 20 bucks
used oe fans - 50 bucks
relays - 15 bucks
wiring - 10 bucks
odds and ends - 10 bucks.
So over 250 bucks to "properly" install electric fans using used parts of rather unknown condition (which I thought was the whole argument against the clutches in the first place) just to end up at the same cooling performance as the 20 dollar clutch.
Shit, you can buy a brand new clutch for 50 to 100 depending on brand totally eliminating the "its 20 years old" argument and still spend less money.
used quest alt - 80 bucks
your bracket - 30 bucks
radiator probe style thermo control - 50 plus bucks
custom made/fitted shroud - 20 bucks
used oe fans - 50 bucks
relays - 15 bucks
wiring - 10 bucks
odds and ends - 10 bucks.
So over 250 bucks to "properly" install electric fans using used parts of rather unknown condition (which I thought was the whole argument against the clutches in the first place) just to end up at the same cooling performance as the 20 dollar clutch.
Shit, you can buy a brand new clutch for 50 to 100 depending on brand totally eliminating the "its 20 years old" argument and still spend less money.


