Got the pump installed but couldn't get a ride to a radiator shop so I just cleaned it myself.
But idleing it was sitting around 150-160. And within 2 miles of easy driving it was up to 215*. So now im thinking its lack of air flow to the rDiator.

 

more updates...
checked airflow to the radiator by removing my hood and going for a drive. in the middle of the day with no hood my temp gauge never went over 205*. thats on average a 20* drop in temperature. and at idle with no hood temps dropped to around 180-190*.
so i think im gonna get a different hood because i cant bring myself to cut my r32 hood.
and does anybody know of a good radiator shop around clearwater that cleans aluminum radiators for cheap?
or of an effective d.i.y radiator chemical clean. ive already used gumout radiator flush and prestone radiator flush but im not convinced that fully cleaned the radiator.

 

Proper ducting in front of the radiator, seal everything up so air goes through the rad, get some of those spacers that jack the rear of the hood up all silly like. Better fans also.

 

FWIW RB's make cooling system even more trouble by not being easy to fit some good puller fans, If I were trying to keep one cool i'd be going with these: SPAL USA

And an alternator upgrade, yes expensive I know, but you chose the RB, and you live where its hot, properly keeping it cool, especially if you're going to run a/c, isnt going to be all too easy.

 

what temp gauge you are using? don't tell me is a prosport cause mine was reading 12F higher that what it was.it was getting heat soak
you need to do something like this

 

Yea its a prosport gauge. But the temp has been verified with a snap on scanner and a laser temp gun. All within 5* of eachother. And I added some hood spacers the same day I took my hood off/ put it back on.
I also noticed my engine doesn't have the factory oil cooler on it. So my oil temp is probably getting high and holding heat.
I plan on making some air ducts and opening up the front of the car some more. I have a r32 gtst hood and it has the solid nose instead of the grill like the gtr's so im pretty sure that is blocking a lot of air flow.
I was looking at spal puller fans too...ffwdconnection sells a spal slim 1360cfm kit for dsm's with mounting hardware for cheap as fuk so ill probably getting one in the next few weeks

 

Oh and z28...do you know of anybody who makes a direct bolt on high amp alternator for rb's? Or should I just look into getting a "universal" one from a audio shop.

 

EDIT::--!!
rechecked the engine temp with the snap on solus scanner at work after lunch. My temp gauge was saying 180* and to my suprise...the scanner said 160*. Its weird because not even a month ago the gauge and scanner were reading within 5*.
Oh well looks like I have an excuse to get better gauges now.

 

told you , that happend to me also , they get heat soak it . mines was 16 F off

 

Apparently the Quest alt that has become popular for KA and SR, also isnt much work to install on the RB, a new upper bracket takes care of things, they're 125A, and you can find them locally used for $50-75, a rebuilt one from parts stores is around $180