SR20 breaking up and losing #1 cylinder
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SLIDING SIDEWALL
Joined: Jan 2007
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SR20 breaking up and losing #1 cylinder
Im trying to work out the bugs with my SR, and im losing hope. A few days ago i was driving around like normal and everything was fine. Then out of nowhere its starts breaking up in or out of boost. At first it wasn't really that bad, but it got worse within a few minutes to the point where it wasn't drivable, and the #1 cylinder died. It's running a little rich so i figured i maybe fouled out a plug. I pull them out, and they were black, but only the number one cylinder smelled like fuel. So i get to poking around and realize my coilpack is cracked. Cool simple fix. So i replaced it with a good one, and replaced the plugs. I saw the CAS was advanced a bit so i put it back to stock settings to see if it would help. Well im driving around today for maybe 10 minutes and its fine, then it starts doing the same thing and the cylinder dies yet again. I think it may have something to do with my ECU, because im running a Blitz Super Access Computer that came with the motor but im not sure of the tune on it. At the same time though, i haven't had this problem before until now. It's a black top S13 SR20 in a 97 Kouki S14. If you think a parts list will help solve the problem i can provide one. Any thoughts?
Last edited by Cliff Money; Mar 5, 2011 at 12:06 PM.
no
Joined: Mar 2007
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Put a stock ecu in. Instead of some omgjdmwtf is on this ecu tune. Might be a good start...
buildin' it
Joined: Aug 2006
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when you say replaced the spark plugs, do you mean that you went out and bought brand new ones and put those in? Or did you just put the ones that were in there, back in?
When you say that it hasn't done this before, how long is before? Are we talking the last couple of months? Or have you had this engine in there for a year? The last couple of months, it has been significantly colder than it has been lately. cold=more dense air, which will help with your overly rich tune. Which is probably why you are just now having this problem.
With all of the little tweaks you are finding with this engine, it makes me believe that you cut corners when you installed it. So, my advice, go back and do what you should have done in the first place and get everything 100% back to stock. There is no reason that you are surprised when you find something advanced or cracked or just not quite right.
This would include getting a stock ECU.
Once you are stock, and running correctly, then you can start with the whole tweaking process.
Somewhere in there, I would try to figure out what that ECU is tuned for. Might come in handy later. But for now, it seems to be causing more of an issue.
So get in there, powder its nose, make that engine happy, and then see where you are at.
When you say that it hasn't done this before, how long is before? Are we talking the last couple of months? Or have you had this engine in there for a year? The last couple of months, it has been significantly colder than it has been lately. cold=more dense air, which will help with your overly rich tune. Which is probably why you are just now having this problem.
With all of the little tweaks you are finding with this engine, it makes me believe that you cut corners when you installed it. So, my advice, go back and do what you should have done in the first place and get everything 100% back to stock. There is no reason that you are surprised when you find something advanced or cracked or just not quite right.
This would include getting a stock ECU.
Once you are stock, and running correctly, then you can start with the whole tweaking process.
Somewhere in there, I would try to figure out what that ECU is tuned for. Might come in handy later. But for now, it seems to be causing more of an issue.
So get in there, powder its nose, make that engine happy, and then see where you are at.
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
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injector o-rings are bad. I can almost garrauntee you have a leaking injector.
__________________
if you havent been in a small plane its worst, cause your eyes and brain say we are moving and your body says oh no we are not. eyes and brain go asshole we are moving, cant you see? body says fuck you we are not moving at all. so they fight and fight and eventualy your body says, you know what fuck you brain, see if you can stop this!! then you throw up.
if you havent been in a small plane its worst, cause your eyes and brain say we are moving and your body says oh no we are not. eyes and brain go asshole we are moving, cant you see? body says fuck you we are not moving at all. so they fight and fight and eventualy your body says, you know what fuck you brain, see if you can stop this!! then you throw up.
Thread Starter
SLIDING SIDEWALL
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,175
Likes: 0
when you say replaced the spark plugs, do you mean that you went out and bought brand new ones and put those in? Or did you just put the ones that were in there, back in?
When you say that it hasn't done this before, how long is before? Are we talking the last couple of months? Or have you had this engine in there for a year? The last couple of months, it has been significantly colder than it has been lately. cold=more dense air, which will help with your overly rich tune. Which is probably why you are just now having this problem.
With all of the little tweaks you are finding with this engine, it makes me believe that you cut corners when you installed it. So, my advice, go back and do what you should have done in the first place and get everything 100% back to stock. There is no reason that you are surprised when you find something advanced or cracked or just not quite right.
This would include getting a stock ECU.
Once you are stock, and running correctly, then you can start with the whole tweaking process.
Somewhere in there, I would try to figure out what that ECU is tuned for. Might come in handy later. But for now, it seems to be causing more of an issue.
So get in there, powder its nose, make that engine happy, and then see where you are at.
When you say that it hasn't done this before, how long is before? Are we talking the last couple of months? Or have you had this engine in there for a year? The last couple of months, it has been significantly colder than it has been lately. cold=more dense air, which will help with your overly rich tune. Which is probably why you are just now having this problem.
With all of the little tweaks you are finding with this engine, it makes me believe that you cut corners when you installed it. So, my advice, go back and do what you should have done in the first place and get everything 100% back to stock. There is no reason that you are surprised when you find something advanced or cracked or just not quite right.
This would include getting a stock ECU.
Once you are stock, and running correctly, then you can start with the whole tweaking process.
Somewhere in there, I would try to figure out what that ECU is tuned for. Might come in handy later. But for now, it seems to be causing more of an issue.
So get in there, powder its nose, make that engine happy, and then see where you are at.
I started the swap back in January, and have been getting it running right since then. I was having charging issues, and when i was driving it then (every couple days for fairly short distances) it didn't seem to have any problem then.
The weather here (Jacksonville, NC) has been in the 20's, 30's and 40's since like November, so i don't think that is the issue. It actually just started warming up in the past few weeks.
As far as putting it back to stock, the only major things done besides the ECU is full turbo back exhaust, and Greddy FMIC, bov, and a coil pack ground kit. But i don't think that would have any effect on my cylinder going out. Im convinced it has something to do with the ECU so i'll try and find another one. Also, i've been trying to find out what's on it but im not having any luck.
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Thread Starter
SLIDING SIDEWALL
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 1,175
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Problem solved, and it was the dumbest thing. I pulled off my coilpack ground kit (from Circuit Sports) and put the regular bolts back in.. and it's fine. I had it grounded to the fire wall, and checked it with a volt meter and it was a good ground. But i heard of people having problems with them before and they screw stuff up. Now i just need to find a stock ECU and get a tune.
At idle, the AF/R sits at 14.7-14.9 most of the time. But sometimes if the rpm's drop a little, it will lean out to 17, and then go back back 14.7.. Occasionally they'll go up a hair, and it will go to 12.5 at idle, and when the idle smooths back out it will go to 14.7 again. I think i still might have a hidden vacuum leak somewhere, which is causing my RPM to be unsteady, but for the most part it stays at 950-1000 rpm's. At cruising speeds it stays at 14.8 75% of the time, but sometimes it will creep up to 16 or so and then fall back down to normal. Under WOT at 10psi, it goes to 11.5 steady.
It's a little rough still, but i know i still need a tune bad. Im just glad i fixed the problem.
At idle, the AF/R sits at 14.7-14.9 most of the time. But sometimes if the rpm's drop a little, it will lean out to 17, and then go back back 14.7.. Occasionally they'll go up a hair, and it will go to 12.5 at idle, and when the idle smooths back out it will go to 14.7 again. I think i still might have a hidden vacuum leak somewhere, which is causing my RPM to be unsteady, but for the most part it stays at 950-1000 rpm's. At cruising speeds it stays at 14.8 75% of the time, but sometimes it will creep up to 16 or so and then fall back down to normal. Under WOT at 10psi, it goes to 11.5 steady.
It's a little rough still, but i know i still need a tune bad. Im just glad i fixed the problem.
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